Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

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The Correct W-G "UP" trail

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

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5.0 from 4 votes

Robert Hall

Nov 30, 2017

“Bottom Section - W-G Ridge”

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Nearby Photos

Another beta of the route...

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Shot of the arete

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Johanna

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Nice exposure on this one

Party high up on WG, viewed from The British Were Coming. 10/10/2021

Middle Section W-G Ridge

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Top Section W-G Ridge

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

The pipe

Whitney Gilman route

High-stepping into P2.

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

3D finishing up a midnight run of WG in 2020. It was a unique experience for both of us as it was 3D's first time up the route and we did most of it in the darkness. Made it to work on time that morning too.

Obvious WG line on a blustery June afternoon.

The climb has so many nice places to pull shoes and relax.

ye old pipe

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

3 pitch break-up. Photo credit to Lee.
<br>
If I were to do this route again, I would do it in 3 pitches with a 70m.
<br>
Take care to extend pieces.

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

W-G

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

Blasting off on pitch 3

The Pipe Pitch

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

Top of pitch 3

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

beautiful day on cannon!

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Winter Ascent of Whitney G

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

The pitch 2 (5.7 variation).

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Climbers on the 5.8 "Higher Exposure" Variation

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