Mountain Project Logo

Red Rocks Offwidth list

Original Post
Cory Harelson · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,410

Hi,

I'd like to take a trip to Red Rocks and climb a bunch of offwidth climbs to try and work on my technique. I seem to be able to find lists of offwidth routes for other areas, but not for Red Rocks. I'd mainly be interested in offwidth routes 5.9 and under (actually way under to start), although a list of higher grade routes would be cool too as this will give me something to aspire to. From the guidebook it looks like there is a good cluster of wide climbs in the Southern Outcrops area. What other wide climbs would you recommend?

Cheers,
Cory

Aaron S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 150

Chrysler Crack (5.9 3rd pullout) and Plumber's (V easy ,Kraft boulders) are easy and accessible. Cadillac, in Black Velvet, looks good though I haven't done it.

I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite?

Michael Sokoloff · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 35

Ixtalan has an aesthetic and very memorable OW pitch. I remember it being mostly bolt-protected and did not require any big stuff.

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676
Cory Harelson · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,410

This looks like plenty to keep me busy, thanks! Chrysler Crack looks Awesome!!!

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425
Aaron S wrote: I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite?
It looks weird. I'm not sure if you can climb it like an OW or not.

I took a good look at it while rappelling off La Cierta Edad...which has a really good OW pitch on it....the crack is bottomed and flares inward. Plus its very steep.

Definetly on my tick list.

Also look at Burlesque...which is the rap route off of Frigid air. There is a really cool chimney
/squeeze flake thing on it.
mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

Kick in the balls is wide and 5.8....but takes some doing to get too and too get off....
mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

josh
John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676
Frigid Air Buttress has a nice offwidth pitch.
Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,281

These are more chimneys than pure OW, but they are in the .9 range.
community pillar
lady wilson's cleavage

one of my first multipitch climbs was called group therapy 5.7+ on angel food wall and there was some wide on that.

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

Michael Solokoff wrote of Ixtlan; I second that. At 11a it's pretty burly. I followed the local hotshot Alison Sheets on it; it was good that she led, 'cause I thrashed like a gumby. It was well protected with bolts by the Uriostes, hopefully those bolts have been updated. I remember this from 1984, so it must have been good.

Luke to Zuke · · Anchorage · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 220

wat about black widow hollow

Cory Harelson · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,410

Thanks for all the good suggestions! This should keep me busy for awhile.

rockratrei · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 396

Shortcake & The Little Engine 5.6 - Chocolate Rx
Zacker Cracker 5.8 - Chocolate Rx
Peanut Butter & Jam 5.9 - Chocolate Rx
Who Deanny 5.8 - Illusion Crag
Crack of Infernity 5.8+ upper tier of Lost Creek
The Triad - Oak Creek
The Fox 5.10 up past Physical Graffiti

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571
Not in the guide

Heard this one got sent. A tube chock with an STP sticker was way up in this thing. I found a JS (Jay Smith?) carabiner hanging from it. Later Ben Williams scooped me and got the FA. The chock is now in desert rock sports. I think this thing is probably 5.11 and found up in Juniper canyon.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
slim wrote:i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old.
With modern C4 6's, you don't need big bros or the bolts. The hangers and bolts are not worthy of being clipped in my opinion. I climbed the route in February last year. Does not need to be, nor should it be retrobolted...just remove the bolts. Joanne, Jorge and Spiderman Dan did not have access to cams that large in '81. Definitely one of if not the best off-width at RR.

Ixtlan
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Red Rocks Offwidth list"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.