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Offwidth Technique?

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Friends don't let friends climb awfulwidths!

Jeremy Franz · · Berthoud, CO · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 55
Brian Scoggins wrote:Handjacker is also worth getting on. Its the obvious offwidth over by Lower Progressive. Horticulture is also pretty good, the second pitch is pretty sustained too-big-to-stack offwidth, at only 5.6. Satterfield's Crack might be worth checking out, if its dry. There's still a lot of snow up there, warm weather spell not withstanding. Easy Jam will also help dial your wide technique. You won't fall unless you really screw things up, but holding on is not the hard part. Also, Lower Slot (that is the correct start to slot, the wide crack on the right) is really good for figuring out wide technique. The first 10 feet are bigger than an old style #5 camalot, but too small to get inside. The crux is straight up thuggy though, so be warned.
This appears to be a good progression suggested by Brian... The first four located on the Nautilus, Satterfield's on Walt's Wall.

Easy Jam
Horticulture
Lower Slot and Upper Slot
Handjacker
Satterfield's Crack
Phoenix · · louisville, colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 310
Jeff Fiedler wrote:I always thought that squirming, grunting, groveling and thrutching WAS offwidth technique. hmmmm.
Seconded..
Tim C · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 215

A clutch technique I found to help was heel/toe jams.
P.S. if anyone finds the rubber half of my shoe that got rubbed off on Mother #1 it would be much appreciated.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Peter Haan (a 70's Valley trad hardman) wrote a kind of how to on a Supertopo thread. Good stuff if you can find it. Also, on summitpost a while back, someone pasted a copy of Dale Bard's article on crack climbing from an old Chouinard catalog. That, hands down, is the best treatise on crack climbing I've ever read.

It takes practice. Like I overheard a guy in Camp 4 when his friend wondered how he could climb hard offwidth; his reply was that climbing a hand crack would be hard too if you didn't know how to handjam.

Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,426
Fat Dad wrote:Peter Haan (a 70's Valley trad hardman) wrote a kind of how to on a Supertopo thread. Good stuff if you can find it. Also, on summitpost a while back, someone pasted a copy of Dale Bard's article on crack climbing from an old Chouinard catalog. That, hands down, is the best treatise on crack climbing I've ever read. It takes practice. Like I overheard a guy in Camp 4 when his friend wondered how he could climb hard offwidth; his reply was that climbing a hand crack would be hard too if you didn't know how to handjam.
You might find those articles here: widefetish.com

or knott.... either way, come on by. There is some Leavitt and Yaniro technique stuff, wide videos, and more.
Jeremy Franz · · Berthoud, CO · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 55
Fat Dad wrote:Peter Haan (a 70's Valley trad hardman) wrote a kind of how to on a Supertopo thread.
Is this the post you are referring to? supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

I think Dale Bard's article is on Widefetish that Russ just mentioned...

Cheers!
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Jeremy Franz wrote: Is this the post you are referring to? supertopo.com/climbing/thre… I think Dale Bard's article is on Widefetish that Russ just mentioned... Cheers!
Yes, that's it. Now if I could just find that Dale Bard article.
Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,426
Fat Dad wrote: Yes, that's it. Now if I could just find that Dale Bard article.
You ain't looking very hard:

widefetish.com/pages/how_to…
Brad "Stonyman" Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785

Thanks Russ, awesome article!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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