Red Rock Sleeper Routes
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Is Black Dagger considered a sleeper? I don't think a lot of people do it. Pitches 1-4 are great with pitch 3 being phenomenal. Awesome top-out and you can then easily summit Gunsight Notch Peak. An adventurous but straight-forward descent...dropping down into that notch is so cool. |
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Valerie A Bwrote: 175 votes and likely over 1000 ascents? Not even close to a sleeper. |
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Rpropswrote: Also add Ten Minute Shift, and more recently - Chocolate and Cheese and Voodoo Lady to that list. Hard to have a bad time on brownstone. Funny that folks still wait in line for Armatron. |
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Taylor Faheywrote: Also add Ten Minute Shift, and more recently - Chocolate and Cheese and Voodoo Lady to that list. Hard to have a bad time on brownstone. Funny that folks still wait in line for Armatron. You're forgetting the unspoken rules of this thread: must be easier than 5.11 and older than 10 years. 80% of routes at RR over 10d are basically sleepers. Ain't nobody gotta wait in line for Drifting, Chinese Handcuffs, Delicate Sound of Thunder etc. People been sleeping that Dreefee, too... |
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Rpropswrote: My question was intended for the OP who identified Cookie Monster as a sleeper route. |
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Beta Blocker Corner (one of the coolest days Ive ever had in the park, rapping the waterfall in Spring was INSANE) Immaculate Conception (truly a sleeper classic) Sugar-to-Blade Runner (simply amazing) Lost in Space (as finish to Jupiter II, a mega sleeper at the grade) The Regatta (another sleeper, but I wish there was a rap anchor on the summit, the route stops just short!) Dirtbag Geologist (not a classic, but super fun to do in 3 pitches if youre solid at the crux grade, especially in winter when other sunny long 10's will be packed) Gift of the Wind Gods (29 votes compared to 400+ votes for Inti?? Def a sleeper IMO) |
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Skyeler Congdonwrote: Great list, I'm all for folks posting hard sleepers, don't care how old! |
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Taylor Faheywrote:'Holy Water' 5.10 goes up the crack system that is directly above the anchor for the 200ft rappel. Impossible to have a bad time in the sanctuary.
Post up!! Is that route in the new guidebook? Just did frigid air yesterday and looked at that line on the descent! Looks amazing! |
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Post any and all routes that come to your mind! This is a great list coming together. I booked my next trip for March 1. Thank you for feeding my addiction. |
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Some good suggestions so far - my favorite sleeper routes (including Sleeper itself) have already been listed. A few potential-sleeper-classics from my todo list - can anyone confirm/deny? Taking a trip in a few months and need weekend crowd-avoidance ideas.
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MattHwrote: Your whole list is quality climbing routes that are just a little (emphasis on little) too spicy to keep them from becoming uber classics. If PG-13 for the grade is fine by you, you’ll likely be avoiding lines for your whole trip. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732434/catwalk.. If the approach wasn’t so long this would be pretty classic. All of the routes on the celebration wall are pretty good. |
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J Westgatewrote: I really liked this one, it took me a long time to convince anyone to go way up there with me though. Nice route in a beautiful setting. |
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Humanos Frijoles is quite good. (Or is it Frijoles Humanos?) Either way. Also, Joanne of Arch. Windy Peak. |
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A significant reason these routes, which shall not be named, are good is because nobody (few people) talks about them, posts on the internet about them, or climbs them, right? |
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A second for edge of the sun, make sure you get p3 mid morning. Not quite sleepers but want to mention power failure and community pillar |
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Marijuana doesn’t seem to get done a lot and I thought it was excellent, except for the first pitch.
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Jack Bushwaywrote: Dude ssshhhh! That’s a locals only secret route. Thank god it’s full of loose rock and shit |
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Kurt Burt Arendwrote: I heard it's populated with guides that make fun of you. |




