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Red Rock Sleeper Routes

Valerie A B · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 307

Is Black Dagger considered a sleeper? I don't think a lot of people do it. Pitches 1-4 are great with pitch 3 being phenomenal. Awesome top-out and you can then easily summit Gunsight Notch Peak. An adventurous but straight-forward descent...dropping down into that notch is so cool.

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423
Valerie A Bwrote:

Is Black Dagger considered a sleeper? 

175 votes and likely over 1000 ascents? Not even close to a sleeper.
Cat Scratch Fever and Requiem for a Tadpole fit the bill way better on the same wall.

Taylor Fahey · · Blue Diamond, NV · Joined May 2018 · Points: 324
Rpropswrote:

175 votes and likely over 1000 ascents? Not even close to a sleeper.
Cat Scratch Fever and Requiem for a Tadpole fit the bill way better on the same wall.

Also add Ten Minute Shift, and more recently - Chocolate and Cheese and Voodoo Lady to that list. Hard to have a bad time on brownstone. Funny that folks still wait in line for Armatron.

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423

Taylor Faheywrote:

Also add Ten Minute Shift, and more recently - Chocolate and Cheese and Voodoo Lady to that list. Hard to have a bad time on brownstone. Funny that folks still wait in line for Armatron.

You're forgetting the unspoken rules of this thread: must be easier than 5.11 and older than 10 years. 80% of routes at RR over 10d are basically sleepers. Ain't nobody gotta wait in line for Drifting, Chinese Handcuffs, Delicate Sound of Thunder etc.

People been sleeping that Dreefee, too...

Valerie A B · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 307
Rpropswrote:

175 votes and likely over 1000 ascents? Not even close to a sleeper.
Cat Scratch Fever and Requiem for a Tadpole fit the bill way better on the same wall.

My question was intended for the OP who identified Cookie Monster as a sleeper route. 

Skyeler Congdon · · Western Slope · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 3,358

 Beta Blocker Corner (one of the coolest days Ive ever had in the park, rapping the waterfall in Spring was INSANE)

Immaculate Conception (truly a sleeper classic)

Sugar-to-Blade Runner (simply amazing)

Lost in Space (as finish to Jupiter II, a mega sleeper at the grade)

The Regatta (another sleeper, but I wish there was a rap anchor on the summit, the route stops just short!)

Dirtbag Geologist (not a classic, but super fun to do in 3 pitches if youre solid at the crux grade, especially in winter when other sunny long 10's will be packed) 

Gift of the Wind Gods (29 votes compared to 400+ votes for Inti?? Def a sleeper IMO)

Taylor Fahey · · Blue Diamond, NV · Joined May 2018 · Points: 324
Skyeler Congdonwrote:

 Beta Blocker Corner (one of the coolest days Ive ever had in the park, rapping the waterfall in Spring was INSANE)

Immaculate Conception (truly a sleeper classic)

Sugar-to-Blade Runner (simply amazing)

Lost in Space (as finish to Jupiter II, a mega sleeper at the grade)

The Regatta (another sleeper, but I wish there was a rap anchor on the summit, the route stops just short!)

Dirtbag Geologist (not a classic, but super fun to do in 3 pitches if youre solid at the crux grade, especially in winter when other sunny long 10's will be packed) 

Gift of the Wind Gods (29 votes compared to 400+ votes for Inti?? Def a sleeper IMO)

Great list, I'm all for folks posting hard sleepers, don't care how old!
+1 to Regatta and Beta Blocker. If you are craving more after Beta Blocker, 'Holy Water' 5.10 goes up the crack system that is directly above the anchor for the 200ft rappel. Impossible to have a bad time in the sanctuary.
Probably some sleepers hiding up in the tango towers too..

Skyeler Congdon · · Western Slope · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 3,358

Taylor Faheywrote:'Holy Water' 5.10 goes up the crack system that is directly above the anchor for the 200ft rappel. Impossible to have a bad time in the sanctuary.

Probably some sleepers hiding up in the tango towers too..

Post up!! Is that route in the new guidebook? Just did frigid air yesterday and looked at that line on the descent! Looks amazing! 

Anna Brown · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 8,129

Post any and all routes that come to your mind! This is a great list coming together. I booked my next trip for March 1. Thank you for feeding my addiction. 

Mike T · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 106
MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,396

Some good suggestions so far - my favorite sleeper routes (including Sleeper itself) have already been listed.

A few potential-sleeper-classics from my todo list - can anyone confirm/deny? Taking a trip in a few months and need weekend crowd-avoidance ideas.

  • Norepinepherine (left arete of Epi chimneys)
  • Peyote Power (Mescalito, right of Dark Shadows)
  • Smooth Operator -> Requiem for a Tadpole (alternative to MrZ->Armatron)
  • Edge of the Sun (far right end of Magic Mountain)
  • Dirtbagger's Compensation (Bearclaw Spire)
  • Tooth or Consequences (Jet Stream Wall)
Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423
MattHwrote:

Some good suggestions so far - my favorite sleeper routes (including Sleeper itself) have already been listed.

A few potential-sleeper-classics from my todo list - can anyone confirm/deny? Taking a trip in a few months and need weekend crowd-avoidance ideas.

Your whole list is quality climbing routes that are just a little (emphasis on little) too spicy to keep them from becoming uber classics. If PG-13 for the grade is fine by you, you’ll likely be avoiding lines for your whole trip. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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