Avg: 2.3 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Margo Young, Joe Frani 1975|
|Page Views:||3,422 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 19, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route ascends an obvius crack system in upper Oak Creek Canyon.
Approach: Ascent Oak Creek until large pine trees are reached. The route can be seen on the right (sunny) side of the canyon and follows a prominant left slanting crack system.
Pitch 1: Scramble up and right up easy slabs to attain the lower reaches of the crack system. Belay in the crack below some small overhangs.
Pitches 2 - 6: Follow the crack, with occasional hanging belays, upward to the base of a steep wall.
Pitch 7: Follow smaller cracks in the wall through excellent rock to the summit. Cautious climbers may want to stay roped up for another pitch.
Descent: Work left to slabs leading to the head of Oak Creek and then down to the base of the route. A very easy descent by Vegas standards. After the first pitch we saw no fixed anchors at all; retreat would be difficult.
Notes: Pitches 1 - 3 contain some fairly serious runouts at the 5.4 level. This is not a good route for a 5.6 leader! The rock on the lower part of the route is not the best either. The best climbing is the headwall at the top of the route - an excellent pitch.
Routefinding is not a problem - once you settle into the crack system things are quite obvious. The Red Book mentions an easier alternative to the final pitch on the right.
A very long approach for a climb with only a few really good pitches.