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Routes in Celebration Wall

Catwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Coltrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Underhanging Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Margo Young, Joe Frani 1975
Page Views: 3,422 total, 20/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 19, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route ascends an obvius crack system in upper Oak Creek Canyon.

Approach: Ascent Oak Creek until large pine trees are reached. The route can be seen on the right (sunny) side of the canyon and follows a prominant left slanting crack system.

Pitch 1: Scramble up and right up easy slabs to attain the lower reaches of the crack system. Belay in the crack below some small overhangs.

Pitches 2 - 6: Follow the crack, with occasional hanging belays, upward to the base of a steep wall.

Pitch 7: Follow smaller cracks in the wall through excellent rock to the summit. Cautious climbers may want to stay roped up for another pitch.

Descent: Work left to slabs leading to the head of Oak Creek and then down to the base of the route. A very easy descent by Vegas standards. After the first pitch we saw no fixed anchors at all; retreat would be difficult.

Notes: Pitches 1 - 3 contain some fairly serious runouts at the 5.4 level. This is not a good route for a 5.6 leader! The rock on the lower part of the route is not the best either. The best climbing is the headwall at the top of the route - an excellent pitch.

Routefinding is not a problem - once you settle into the crack system things are quite obvious. The Red Book mentions an easier alternative to the final pitch on the right.

A very long approach for a climb with only a few really good pitches.

Protection

Standard Vegas trad rack
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
The approach takes 1-1/2 hours if you're adept at travel through the canyons.

The route can be climbed in 6 pitches with a 70m rope.

P1- Scramble up and and right and belay in the crack just below the huecos.
P2- Climb the left slanting crack up to the pothole belay.
P3- Continue up the left slanting crack above a bushy section to a comfortable perch.
P4- Climb the crack/gully to an alcove below the chimney.
P5- Climb the chimney and continue on to the large ledge.
P6- Climb the nice crack/varnished face all the way to the top (full 70m). Jan 26, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
What Brian said, except that his rope must be longer than mine. Seemed about 65 meters from the thread to the pothole, and about 70 meters from the pothole to the nice ledge above the bushes. The chimney pitch is about 150', depending where you belay, not 80' per the guidebook. Really fun, adventurous route, with an alpine feel uncommon for Red Rocks. We took a standard rack to #3, and never felt like the gear was problematic. Nov 9, 2013
here is a trip report from a spring 2011 ascent.

cf. supertopo.com/tr/Catwalk-Oa… Apr 26, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7+ PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7+ PG13
We belayed our first pitch about 15 feet up and in the heucos (thread through a hole for a belay anchor). We got pro in a couple of shallow cracks on the "5.4R" pitch (making it not R rated methinks). Stretched the rope out 60m to combo this and the next pitch all the way to the pothole belay (big stoppers for a great anchor). Stretched the rope on the next pitch all the way past the bushes 60m+ to a nice stance. Climbed the 5.5 pitch into the big right facing corner all the way up to a nice level trough for a belay (med cams). This set up the chimney pitch nicely, also ending on a nice ledge below the "money" pitch.

Point being, no hanging belays.

I thought the route deserved a couple of stars and is a fairly worthy objective. Only one or two of the pitches (or parts of them) weren't great, the rest was pretty fun climbing. Much longer route than Coltrane but climbs faster. Nice line.

Took set of stoppers and single cams from #1 TCU through #4 camalot (which we placed a couple of times).

Oh, and, this would be a 5.6 route for 5.8 leaders (!).

-Brian in SLC Mar 22, 2009
Glad you had a good time on Catwalk. If you're going to walk all the way up there I think that Coltrane is a better route. Although it's 5.9, it's no more serious that Catwalk. The crux is a bolted friction move and most of the climb is 5.7 or so with decent pro. Since it's not in Swain there's nobody on it. The Red Book description is pretty good though. If you're fast you can get up both in a day. I'd add it to the database but it's been a long time since I've done it. Unfortunately I don't think it's been rebolted.

John Mar 27, 2004
On the bottom of first pitch belay we clipped a funky looking piece of home made fixed gear. We couldn't read a name off it but it was bomber! You can see a picture of this if you like at my site finalhour.ca/03182004.htm

As a side note the third from last pitch contains a very exciting right leaning chimney. Step out onto the face beside the chimney and follow this until you can move left back into the chimney. Watch out for cactus on the next move above!

Over all the climb was pleasant and well worth the 2 1/2 approach. Mar 27, 2004