Avg: 1.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1200 ft, 9 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Frani & Margo Young, February 1975|
|Page Views:||1,754 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Apr 20, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionA fine backcountry adventure. No crowds, little chalk, and great views. Also features some grungy rock and brush, and a little sandbagged at 5.7 by today's standards (some might call it 5.8).
Most pitches run about 120-150 feet. The belay points described by Handren (2007:114) are generally logically placed, although some pitches can be linked w/ a 60m rope.
Gear up near the creek, and 3rd class up the slabs for a couple hundred feet. Start P1 up a fractured left-facing corner to a broad ledge. P2 ascends the left-angling seam to a 2-person pod-shaped niche in the seam (P1 & P2 are easily linked).
P3 continues up the seam, which by now is opening up to a hand crack; stay left until you can gain a large white ledge on the right (60 m pitch). Ignore the strong temptation to continue up the left seam past the ledge (it looks like someone tried it and bailed, although it looks really fun).
Walk to the right side of the ledge and P4 climbs the massive left-facing corner to a nice small triangular ledge. P5 continues up the corner through a small roof and ends at the base of a varnished face on the right.
P6: we climbed a flared crack on the right side of the varnished face (sandbagged 5.7). Maybe there's an easier way directly up the face, but pro didn't look so good. End on a big white ledge.
P7 goes straight up the cleft in the overhanging buttress (another sandbagged pitch). Belay at the base of the next varnished face.
The last two pitches are shared with Catwalk. P8 climbs the fun and bomber 5.6 varnished face; P9 is a short scramble to the top. P8 & P9 are easily linked.
LocationClamber up Oak Creek to the base of Celebration Wall.
From the top, walk off to the left and circle down back to your packs; it's a beautiful descent when the waterslide is flowing.