Poll: What Do Slash Grades Mean?

You might remember me from my now infamous I Hate Slash Grades post. Within that post, there seemed to be several interpretations of what a slash grade represents. 

I hoped to get a general sense of what people think a slash grade means. Because there is no polling feature on MP, please give a thumbs-up to your understanding of what a slash grade represents in the different comments I will post below: 

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 Like this post if:

"The slash grade represents that the climb is difficult to grade. Example: The grade is 5.11a/b, which is an alternative way to say 5.11-. The grade could be both 5.11a or 5.11b. It is a challenging climb to give a specific letter grade to."

A slash grade represents that the climb might be slightly easier for an individual based on height or other features. Example: the grade is 5.11b/c. For a taller climber, the grade is 5.11b, and for a shorter climber, it is 5.11c.  The alternative is possible; it might be easier for a shorter person and harder for a taller person. 

A slash grade represents an in-between grade. Example: The grade is 5.11b/c. This means it is harder than a 5.11b and easier than a 5/11c. The grading order from easiest to hardest goes 5.11b > 5.11b/c > 5.11c. “I can’t justify giving the climb an 11c grade. Let’s give it an 11b/c grade instead.”

An interesting thing about slash grades is that nobody ever seems to use it between number grades (e.g., 5.11d/12a).

Austin Mauneywrote:

An interesting thing about slash grades is that nobody ever seems to use it between number grades (e.g., 5.11d/12a).

If I wrote a guidebook every 12a would be 11d/12a

And every 11d would be 11d/12a

Austin Mauneywrote:

An interesting thing about slash grades is that nobody ever seems to use it between number grades (e.g., 5.11d/12a).

MP doesn't allow this in their system. I complained about this a while ago, I assume it was never fixed. 

To OP, I have also seen (in the bouldering context) the slash grade also indicating the "consensus" grade and "personal" grade usually when the two are very far apart. Eg, "King Air V10/8" 

Sage Bedellwrote:

A slash grade represents an in-between grade. Example: The grade is 5.11b/c. This means it is harder than a 5.11b and easier than a 5/11c. The grading order from easiest to hardest goes 5.11b > 5.11b/c > 5.11c. “I can’t justify giving the climb an 11c grade. Let’s give it an 11b/c grade instead.”

I'm surprised to see this one getting so many votes. Y'all have this much precision in determining grades, huh? 

I sure as hell don't 

Here we go again. 

Sage Bedellwrote:

Example: The grade is 5.11b/c. 

Errr, did something specific trigger you?

Austin Mauneywrote:

An interesting thing about slash grades is that nobody ever seems to use it between number grades (e.g., 5.11d/12a).

Big Kahuna at Rumney is sometimes given 12d/13a.

If you look at votes: 23 votes for 5.13, 26 votes for 5.12. When the votes are that even I'm OK in principle with giving it a slash grade (I haven't sent the climb so I won't weigh in on Big Kahuna specifically.) 

a little bit of all three

They are another failed attempt to add precision to something that is inherently imprecise 

All three of the OP's options are viable, and traditionally used reasons for slash grades. 

The precision exhibited in grading rock climbs is amazingly accurate. The grades are subjective, and eventually settled by consensus. They sometimes are updated when the consensus changes. Of course opinions vary, due to a multitude of variables both real and imagined. It's the nature of the beast.

So Sage, do you still hate slash grades?

Aren't all 3 of these options basically saying the same thing, which is simply "you might find this route to feel somewhere around 11b or 11c"?

It seems like trying to make a distinction that isn't really there.  Slash grades just provide an opportunity in the consensus grading system for cases where you'd prefer not to pick 11b or 11c for myriad reasons.

All of your options say the same thing. It doesn’t matter WHY the grader can’t decide between 11b and 11c. They just can’t tell the difference, they think it could be either, they think it might be size-dependent, or they think it’s in-between, kinda hard for 11b, but kinda easy for 11c.

Whatever it is, it doesn’t matter.

Take the higher number as face value, if you are barely climbing at that level, and trying to decide whether you should get on the climb, or whether it would be too hard for you, and likely to turn into a stick clipping epic. 

Eric Craigwrote:

So Sage, do you still hate slash grades?

The consensus from the voting is that they represent in-between grades. I never hated them, but I still think they are unnecessary, considering how many grades exist. But I am only a lowly 5.12 climber. In the 13+ range, they might be necessary. 

Trevr Taylrwrote:

Errr, did something specific trigger you?

Is this another Daniel Chode Rider account lol?

Sage Bedellwrote:

The consensus from the voting is that they represent in-between grades. I never hated them, but I still think they are unnecessary, considering how many grades exist. But I am only a lowly 5.12 climber. In the 13+ range, they might be necessary. 

Well, what is missing from the conversation is what constitutes a consensus? First ascensionists rating their route is a consensus of 1, or perhaps however many people participated in the establishing of the climb. Based on my experience, this is often when the slash grade is used. Perhaps most often. The slash grade clearly represents a degree of uncertainty in these cases. Again I will say most often, when a route (or individual pitch) has had a sufficient number of ascents, the grade is settled, but not always. Further ascents may or may not achieve a new consensus. 

I have no argument with your position of believing they are unnecessary. I do think they have limited usefulness. There are limits to the usefulness of all grading systems used in all climbing/mountaineering grading systems. But generally, as indicated up thread, I think the grading systems used work amazingly well. 

hot take - everything deserves a slash grade (maybe multiple slashes) to account for different body types and dimensions and how much that impacts the way a route or boulder climbs

Austin Mauneywrote:

An interesting thing about slash grades is that nobody ever seems to use it between number grades (e.g., 5.11d/12a).

It seems like it can happen if it is a women’s fa or ffa (Shiraishi, Bereziartu).