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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #31
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Lori, Thanks for sharing your stack. Always interesting to see what other people are doing. I can't say that I physically notice a difference the way that you do, with protein. Just that over time I seem to be able to get a bit stronger without developing injuries. I'm stronger than I was a year or two ago, but still not as strong as I'd like to be. What I've been doing: I continue to climb, mostly in the Gunks. Right now, it's still warm enough to climb outside, for me, provided I can find similarly minded people. I got out yesterday, and I'm hoping to climb today as well. Ward, I use cronometer to track my diet. In theory my Mg is fine (averaging around 320 mg from diet, which is supposed to be 100% of the RDA according to cronometer). It might be one of those things where keeping your intake higher than the RDA is even better, I dunno. I do have a few deficiencies: not enough choline, folate, Vit E. I should do something about those. I supplement with calcium, otherwise I wouldn't get enough according to RDA. The thing is, how much should we trust the RDA? I wonder how good the numbers are, how they arrived at those numbers, and whether they even bothered to test them on people our age. More recently they seem to be advising a lot more protein for older people and are not concerned about renal failure, and I wonder if I'm walking a thin line with that. Re sleep: I have the luxury of not setting an alarm clock. I seem to have pretty solid sleep. There are a couple of factors people might want to consider if they don't sleep well. Try completely eliminating caffeine for a few weeks. Some people are super sensitive to it (not me, but I know someone). Also, I don't drink alcohol at all, never have, and I think that could be a factor. Some people sleep better with an empty stomach (like Bryan Johnson). Sleep is so crucial that it's worth putting in a lot of effort to get it right. I missed the northeastern meetup of the old folks' thread. Hope I get to meet you people some other time! |
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no alcohol, very little caffine. tea in the morning. herbal tea from noon on. too much sugar probobly. try to eat early.. all that happy stuff but there is no way that I can sleep in. If I stay up late I still wake up at 5:30am and almost zero chance of going back to sleep if I had the time to do so. nasy wet and cold. low 30sf with rain and snow. no accumulation but it was snowing yesterday and supposed to again tonight. I watched Goldfinger last night. Entertaining in a silly way but OMG have attitudes changed.. The main Female character is named Pussy Galor. Heck I am probably in trouble just for stating that fact. Sean Connery acts like the character in Carly Simons song Your so vain and actually slaps women on the butt and gets away with it.. |
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After reading Phylps post yesterday I was reflecting on the number of times I've seen models and camera crews in the park, she usually dressed in something totally unsuitable for climbing, but trying to pose as a climber. I've often wanted to suggest they actually TRY climbing. dragons, great update! You sound healthy and strong without a lot of tweaking. But regarding the protein for older adults, studies certainly take into account renal failure. I don't know if we can trust the methods, but I've been seeing studies from major universities--"protein labs"--that measure nitrogen balance, muscle composition etc. I saw one today that measured the effects of protein intake close to exercise, and same intake hours after, just to see how timing affected muscle. (The overall conclusion was it matters more the amount of protein you consume, vs WHEN you consume it.) I suppose anyone can overdo, but by far the problems documented are not getting enough protein. That isn't good for kidneys, either. But more and more I am seeing the difference in the muscles of sedentary men and women my age ... aka sarcopenia... and those who are consciously eating well and exercising with weights. Night and day. Nick... I knew we had things in common! I've been an early-bird from birth, and not ashamed to admit it. There is nothing I can do about waking up without an alarm between 4:30 and 5 a.m. There's no point in laying there, trying to stretch it out. And like you, if I stay up late, I still wake up at exactly the same time. So, I work with the front end. I pretty much hit the sack between 8 and 9... and aim for 8-10 hours of sleep nightly. My Whoop lets me know. One good thing about this is 'the early bird gets the worm'. Time and again I've already been there, done that, before anyone else is even awake. --- There may be some things that diet and sleep alone cannot cure. My doctor has insisted "Either stop climbing, or start taking cortisol, because you are blowing out your adrenals." We've been having this discussion for 5 years. I have the prescription of hydrocortisol, but have not taken it yet, because it really is a lifelong thing. I'm on the fence. --------------- So I met a new fella at Nomad, who moved here from Minnesota... just brought wife and kids and uprooted. He is excited to be putting up FAs all over the place with some well known local dignitaries. He is of course hanging out with the crew at Spy. I know there are now 300+ new routes in that area...but it doesn't excite me. However, there are a half dozen FAs I would love to do. Had my eye on them forever. Shouldn't a new route be something special? Maybe that's just me. --------- Of all the shoes I tried on, it looks like the Generator Mid by Scarpa is the one. MUCH wider shoe, more square toe. Even so, tough decision between the size that is the perfect comfortable fit but kinda floppy in the heel... and the perfect fit everywhere but snug in the toe. I read/heard that this shoe will expand a full size quickly, so I chose the lower size. Fingers crossed.
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: My favourite character was Q. I replicated a bunch of things including a shooting pen activated by a .22 cartridge. Sort of lucky that I still have a hand. As I was only 8, I never really paid much attention to the sex scenes, just waited for the “good scenes” using the gadgets.
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I just got back from a week in Bishop. I did some good climbs, but due to partner issues, not nearly as much as I had hoped. Still, it was nice relaxing with the wife, dog, and a good book. My thoughts on the many pages of posts that I missed during my time away: Although he climbs 6 or 8 grades harder than me, GabeO's general approach and philosophy toward training is what has worked for me. Daniel J. - Absolutely true that doing a route smoothly is the most satisfying thing I experience in climbing! Just clawing my way up some route leaves a bad taste in my mouth. It's well worth it to me to stay on it till it feels right. Phyl - There must be as many recipes for breaded meatballs as there are grandmothers in Italy. I need to check out sliderlocks. Who makes them? Tim S. - I have only climbed a couple of days in the Gunks (many years ago) but your photos make me want to buy a plane ticket to New York. Regarding all the Mythos comments: They are the most comfy shoes I've ever worn and climb better than one might think. I have a stretched-out pair I wear for long routes and with socks on cold days. The Eco models sound interesting for less stretching. Nick G. - Wow! Lots of good photos! Regarding Physivantage Supercharged Collagen: I've been drinking this cool-aid (and doing PT exercises) for quite some time now and shoulder, elbow, and fingers have all improved. Ward's comments about the timing seems to be very important. That's all for now. Stay tuned for my future training post "How to climb 13d in two minutes a Day." |
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Isa's pond is down to 52f at least that's what it was two nights ago.. That's cold enough for cold therapy so we did a sauna plunge. Seems to helps with the arthritis in my feet. |
Brandt Allenwrote: So, how about 5.13b in one minute per day? I took two days off but 6 climbing days per week works for me and my latest climbing buddy climbs 7 days per week. Nick Goldsmithwrote: Your sauna looks great! Isa’s pond? |
Ward Smithwrote: Well, despite him not even being there, Ward did a fine job of summarizing the weekend meetup of the codgers in the Gunks this last weekend. I'll fill in a bit more detail as I have time, and hopefully RG, Alan, and Dragons can chime in as well. Oh, one thing to get off my chest before I go any further: It was stupid of me to plan meeting up on the weekend of Yom Kippur. Actually I had planned to go to temple, and while I'm a bad Jew and went climbing instead, it created a conflict for the weekend that was unintended. So my apologies. Day 0: My wife, my daughter, and I drove down on Friday evening, getting in to the campsite pretty late. Normally it's 3.5 hours from Boston, but we weren't able to get on the road until around 4 pm, and with horrible traffic and a stop for dinner, it was more like 5.5 hours. Day 1: Saturday morning the weather was glorious. We went to Peterskill, where I led an easy route for my daughter. Here she is getting ready to climb it (assisted by my wife and surrounded by glorious fall foliage): https://youtu.be/YKa46tH4b-o?si=L0dH_Ob2tomoWzZF She really enjoyed it. She happily did a second, slightly harder route, and then on route number 3 (harder yet) she ran out of juice and wanted to come down. So then it was mom and Dad's turn to challenge ourselves. I led a really nice route called East LA (5.8). I was firmly reminded that Gunks climbing is hard for me (especially with how out of practice I am), so it put me through my paces quite nicely. We were also able to toprope a nice 5.10 from that anchor. Then we went to the next crag where my wife and I each led another route, while my daughter had good fun with sticks and dirt and boulders and such. In all we got in 7 pitches, and then decided to head back to the CG. One more photo from the day - still life with Gunks conglomerate, autumn leaves, and climbing gear:  Oh, and the walk back to the car:  As it turns out, my climbing day was not over! The campground has several little bouldering walls under an enclosure, and my daughter wanted to play on them. So while mom made dinner we played several long games of "add on" on the 45 degree overhanging walls until both of us has no skin left. Dinner, s'mores over the fire, and finally into the tent for bed. I'll write up day 2 tomorrow. GO |
Brandt Allenwrote: You definitely should. Rides could be enabled from BWI, PHL, or EWR. Late Sep to late Oct is usually ideal weather. Spring can be OK, or it can be cold and/or wet. Crap shoot. |
 Mythos were the shoe of the day on Pingora (Wind River Range). Keith was the only rebel. |
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That's Isa,s sauna next to her pond. |
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My partner sails up the without wincing then says “it hurts” Finger cracks are next. There’s a 5.12c (gym grading) crack that looks doable. Edited title of the second climb per Gabe O. |
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Can we agree to leave the gym videos in the gym or FB? Just asking |
GabeOwrote: I completely missed out on those plans, but I did get to climb on Monday and today with friends from MA, and that was awesome! How was Peterskill wrt crowding on Saturday? I just couldn't bring myself to go, expecting it to be far too crowded. |
dragonswrote: Peterskill was fine. We never had to wait for a route. Sorry you didn't join us, would've been nice to meet you. GO |
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Li Hu, those cracks look fun. I wish my gym had some cracks. I know I must seem like the crack police, so I'm sorry about this, but if a crack is tighter than good hands you would not call it "off hands", you'd call it either tight hands or thin hands. Just thought you might want to know. Cheers, GO |
Todd Berlier wrote: Same, this is my first step outside this coming season.
That would be cool!
Time for a bevvy GabeOwrote: Thanks, changed it. |
Todd Berlier wrote: For me it's like people on FB posting pics of their dinner every time they go out, I'd much rather see a conversation on how that food was prepared. I don't need to see the pink one over in the corner, I already know what it looks like! FYI I will never ever complain about pics or videos of real rock, even if it's a pebble wrestler on TR ;) |
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Posting anything climbing related, even training videos is showing a path towards the goal. Climbing. We all have different methods to this madness, and all have one thing in common. We’re older climbers whom can’t really afford to make big mistakes in their training. Hopefully, by posting things here we can help each other prevent serious injuries and gain some support from one another. It’s all about being positive!
Todd Berlier wrote: Cool! I think you’ve had enough FA in a week to last a lifetime! |
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I had an afternoon with Bob yesterday on cap rock. It was a perfect choice because it’s close and it’s familiar and I was feeling “low energy “. . It is taking some time to get my groove back – –NOT like riding a bicycle. But that old familiar astonishment returned, that you can climb something almost vertical that has NO holds for hands or feet. I love the challenge of staring at that blank wall and figuring it out. But I am slow. I realized that I spent far more time deciding upon and testing my next step than trusting it. Most of the time I don’t believe what I’m doing. It also requires enormous calf, foot and toe strength, and pretty much everything was seizing up by the time we were done. Also, it really does require strong reading glasses to distinguish those tiny divots and crystals from regular discoloration on the rock.    The new Scarpa generator works great. No pain anywhere, great rubber and good Precision. I was joking that the shoes are better than me. A really good climber deserves these shoes. The longer this goes on and the more difficult the Climbing I have entrusted myself to Bob and rely on him for honest feedback because this is really foreign territory for me. I was waiting for him to say “maybe this has passed you by.“ But before the day was over, Bob suggested I go back and purchase a half size smaller Scarpa for working on those 10c/d routes on my list this year, and that changed my whole attitude. You mean this is still possible? I keep waiting for the other shoe to drop and have been quietly asking myself has it dropped yet? —- It seems in Italian heritage there are lots of grandmothers. Sounds like Phylp has some too. Tony’s grandmother Julia spent her life in the kitchen cooking up wonders for the family. Tony’s mom was right there cooking side-by-side so they have elevated stature in his life. I would love to have been there to cook with them, but I think something has happened to quality along the way. Everyone in Tony’s family is pretty overweight and most of them are not well. But they sure are happy. That’s the long way of saying that I want to make my own Giardiniera with fresh vegetables, and no one has a clue. Vegetables have taken a long backseat to meat and pasta in Tony’s family. Maybe it’s also a Chicago thing? Because the only mandatory vegetables I see on any menu is a piece of iceberg lettuce and maybe a pickle. Tony’s family really truly believed that when he moved to California, he would become a kale eating hippie. They needn’t have worried about that. |
