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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #31
Carl Schneiderwrote: That is indeed quite the comfy super tent! |
Lori Milaswrote: Physiadvantage supercharged collagen at recommended dosage. You can maybe make your own by adding additional vitamin C and the amino acids glycine and prolein to generic collagen, but Im still working and not living that close to the edge, so I can afford it. You should take it between a half an hour to an hour before loading your tendons. Your tendons are not like muscles, the nutrients need to be there ahead of time before loading. Think about wringing out a sponge; that is what the tendons are doing when loading, if the nutrients aren’t in the synovial fluid ahead of time then it is no good. Muscles are different, after training you should have plenty of protein (and carbs, if you eat them). Plenty of blood flow to the muscles. I’m on a keto mostly carnivore diet, very low carb. Seems to work great for me, but your mileage may vary. |
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Ward. I suspect your ability to sleep well has a lot to do with your continued good health, fitness and ability. Thats a gift many of us don't sleep well and simply can not sleep in. Doesn't work. One of the things I remember from Chuck Yeager's book about being a Fighter Ace and astronaut etc was his ability to sleep whenever he wanted to. If there was a 10 min break before a mission he could fall asleep and power nap. Most normal people would be too wired up to sleep in those circumstances. |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: Is this the cause or effect? |
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Another prime athlete who sleeps well is Mikila Shifrin. She can take a power nap and actually fall asleep between 1st and 2nd runs at the world cup races. She wakes up fresh and ready to crush. |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: In my experience, people that take naps all the time are generally not getting enough sleep at night. If you get enough sleep there is very little inclination to nap. |
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Re: sleep Alarms only when absolutely necessary. And if you have a phone or tv in your bedroom, you’re doing it wrong. |
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I agree that sleep is primarily a physical requirement that can be understood as one of the dialectical sum products of wakefulness, metabolism, and the inescapable need for repair and rejuvenation. Still, there is something about sleep that escapes these standard definitions. Dreams, creative solutions, the consolidation of memory. Sleep can operate much like the proactive determinism of waking consciousness. It impresses its activity and content upon the outside world in a manner that befits waking consciousness. Add to this the revelation that sleep is malleable. I once was somewhat pissed off (and am still) that a great majority of my nocturnal dreams were very negative: always fleeing from something malignant or someone evil (such as bill collectors, lol) and full of anxiety, fear, etc.. So one night I resolved to dream of positive things , for a change. It took a while but in due course, and with the aid of breath work, this suggestion started producing more pleasant dreams. Anywho, time to go sleepy sleepy.ZZZZzzzzzzz....... |
Daniel Joderwrote: Yeah it is! It’s huge (that’s what she said). Got out climbing today. Led a 14 as a warmup, which was CAF (Cruisy As Fuck), then tried a 21 on TR that had funky moves but was PAF (Pumpy As Fuck) so failed on that then led a 14 on carrot bolts (silly idea, carrot bolts) which felt at LEAST a 16.  |
Li Huwrote: Talking about ‘cause and effect’ did you know 100% of people who confuse causation with correlation will die! Talking about sleep, the other night I had a dream in a dream. I often have very vivid dreams, and I have several a night that I remember. It’s like watching a movie, then that movie finishes (I wake up) and then there’s another movie, up to three separate dreams that I recall on awakening. I find dreams and sleeping very pleasurable. |
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Jan. You missed the point. Some people are blessed with the ability to sleep whenever they want to. Others not so much. |
Carl Schneiderwrote: As will the rest of us. Leonard Cohen, "Alexandra Leaving" |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: I just slept 11 hours after getting a cocktail of vaccines. Hepa/b, Covid all current variations, Flu with variants, Tetanus. They wanted to give me shingles as well. Just waking up, and the third computer thing I did was to post here Trouble sleeping? Well, there you have it. |
 It's a bit bizarre how climbing paraphernalia and allusions shows up in so many ads these days. Here's one advertising Louis Vuitton leather goods. Two male models dressed in casual clothing (complete with leather belt and very expensive wristwatches) wear Louis Vuitton backpacks with climbing ropes sticking out from the top. I don't know where they're going, but it's surely not to climb anything. Then my husband comes and says "That's Roger Federer and Raphael Nadal". According to him, two of the most recognizable faces in the world, but I guess not to me. Which makes it even more strange, since they are famous as tennis players. |
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Isa helped me put a new door in yesterday to replace the one that mangled in that burglary last winter. Finally got around to it.  |
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Was supposed to go climbing today, but the 40 MPH wind gusts made me decide to stack firewood instead. So I rounded up some photos from a couple weeks ago. Following Rusty Trifle in the Gunks. Photos courtesy of a friend.       On another note...spouse got me the gift of a glider flight for Christmas last year and finally did it on Saturday. What a blast. Recommend this to anyone who is not afraid of flying. Even got to fly the aircraft for about 5 minutes. Very cool. Should have some pics later. For anyone in my area, Pennsylvania Glider Council in Bucks County, PA. Pennsylvania Glider Council Weather is a bit fickle this week here in the mid-Atlantic, so looks like a chore week until Friday. |
phylp phylpwrote: Tennis players have superior grip, core and leg strength. I wonder how hard they could climb? Willing to bet after a couple sessions V5 or higher? No matter what though, they do look good with that Vuitton gear. |
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Lori, Thanks for sharing your stack. Always interesting to see what other people are doing. I can't say that I physically notice a difference the way that you do, with protein. Just that over time I seem to be able to get a bit stronger without developing injuries. I'm stronger than I was a year or two ago, but still not as strong as I'd like to be. What I've been doing: I continue to climb, mostly in the Gunks. Right now, it's still warm enough to climb outside, for me, provided I can find similarly minded people. I got out yesterday, and I'm hoping to climb today as well. Ward, I use cronometer to track my diet. In theory my Mg is fine (averaging around 320 mg from diet, which is supposed to be 100% of the RDA according to cronometer). It might be one of those things where keeping your intake higher than the RDA is even better, I dunno. I do have a few deficiencies: not enough choline, folate, Vit E. I should do something about those. I supplement with calcium, otherwise I wouldn't get enough according to RDA. The thing is, how much should we trust the RDA? I wonder how good the numbers are, how they arrived at those numbers, and whether they even bothered to test them on people our age. More recently they seem to be advising a lot more protein for older people and are not concerned about renal failure, and I wonder if I'm walking a thin line with that. Re sleep: I have the luxury of not setting an alarm clock. I seem to have pretty solid sleep. There are a couple of factors people might want to consider if they don't sleep well. Try completely eliminating caffeine for a few weeks. Some people are super sensitive to it (not me, but I know someone). Also, I don't drink alcohol at all, never have, and I think that could be a factor. Some people sleep better with an empty stomach (like Bryan Johnson). Sleep is so crucial that it's worth putting in a lot of effort to get it right. I missed the northeastern meetup of the old folks' thread. Hope I get to meet you people some other time! |
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no alcohol, very little caffine. tea in the morning. herbal tea from noon on. too much sugar probobly. try to eat early.. all that happy stuff but there is no way that I can sleep in. If I stay up late I still wake up at 5:30am and almost zero chance of going back to sleep if I had the time to do so. nasy wet and cold. low 30sf with rain and snow. no accumulation but it was snowing yesterday and supposed to again tonight. I watched Goldfinger last night. Entertaining in a silly way but OMG have attitudes changed.. The main Female character is named Pussy Galor. Heck I am probably in trouble just for stating that fact. Sean Connery acts like the character in Carly Simons song Your so vain and actually slaps women on the butt and gets away with it.. |
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After reading Phylps post yesterday I was reflecting on the number of times I've seen models and camera crews in the park, she usually dressed in something totally unsuitable for climbing, but trying to pose as a climber. I've often wanted to suggest they actually TRY climbing. dragons, great update! You sound healthy and strong without a lot of tweaking. But regarding the protein for older adults, studies certainly take into account renal failure. I don't know if we can trust the methods, but I've been seeing studies from major universities--"protein labs"--that measure nitrogen balance, muscle composition etc. I saw one today that measured the effects of protein intake close to exercise, and same intake hours after, just to see how timing affected muscle. (The overall conclusion was it matters more the amount of protein you consume, vs WHEN you consume it.) I suppose anyone can overdo, but by far the problems documented are not getting enough protein. That isn't good for kidneys, either. But more and more I am seeing the difference in the muscles of sedentary men and women my age ... aka sarcopenia... and those who are consciously eating well and exercising with weights. Night and day. Nick... I knew we had things in common! I've been an early-bird from birth, and not ashamed to admit it. There is nothing I can do about waking up without an alarm between 4:30 and 5 a.m. There's no point in laying there, trying to stretch it out. And like you, if I stay up late, I still wake up at exactly the same time. So, I work with the front end. I pretty much hit the sack between 8 and 9... and aim for 8-10 hours of sleep nightly. My Whoop lets me know. One good thing about this is 'the early bird gets the worm'. Time and again I've already been there, done that, before anyone else is even awake. --- There may be some things that diet and sleep alone cannot cure. My doctor has insisted "Either stop climbing, or start taking cortisol, because you are blowing out your adrenals." We've been having this discussion for 5 years. I have the prescription of hydrocortisol, but have not taken it yet, because it really is a lifelong thing. I'm on the fence. --------------- So I met a new fella at Nomad, who moved here from Minnesota... just brought wife and kids and uprooted. He is excited to be putting up FAs all over the place with some well known local dignitaries. He is of course hanging out with the crew at Spy. I know there are now 300+ new routes in that area...but it doesn't excite me. However, there are a half dozen FAs I would love to do. Had my eye on them forever. Shouldn't a new route be something special? Maybe that's just me. --------- Of all the shoes I tried on, it looks like the Generator Mid by Scarpa is the one. MUCH wider shoe, more square toe. Even so, tough decision between the size that is the perfect comfortable fit but kinda floppy in the heel... and the perfect fit everywhere but snug in the toe. I read/heard that this shoe will expand a full size quickly, so I chose the lower size. Fingers crossed.
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