Routes for new aid climber - bolt ladder

I'd like to one day climb The Nose or some other big wall on El Cap but have very little aid climbing experience. I bought a book called how to big wall climb and it lays out a good sequence on what aid climb training to do but I'm kind of stuck on the first lesson. I'm supposed to find a route with bolts every 4'-5' and practice ascending with a bolt ladder on a low angle wall. Anyone have any suggestions on what route might be good for that in the SLC area?

I'm teaching an intro to aid clinic in SLC in a couple weeks. Sounds like it's right up your alley. Send me a PM and we can chat about it!

Long story short: there's not one. You'll have to make it yourself with knotted rope or slings extending bolts. You might be able to go bolt-to-bolt at Ledgmere, but no wall is featured like that.

Perhaps you could try a climbing gym when it's not crowded. You'll still need to learn sooner or later aiding a crack...may as well start that soon. Climbing a big wall in a reasonable amount of time takes a LOT of practice.

bsmootwrote:

Perhaps you could try a climbing gym when it's not crowded. You'll still need to learn sooner or later aiding a crack...may as well start that soon. Climbing a big wall in a reasonable amount of time takes a LOT of practice.

Please don't do this at The Front. They don't allow anything that's not standard climbing. Momentum probably doesn't allow it, either.

I already asked at The Front and they said they wouldn't allow iit. I'll find a good crack and start there. Thanks.

You can hang a static line from a tree branch with butterfly knots to simulate the bolts at the desired intervals. 

The aid route on the Peeler Face is probably the best option in LCC (Riveting). If you have time, climb the full Black Peeler route. The bolt ladder is not low angle but will be very similar to the type of aid climbing you'll encounter on the Nose. I've also aided the Coffin crack.

Zion is a great place to get your ass kicked and learn quickly. Before I did the Nose I went and climbed Touchstone, Spaceshot, Prodigal Sun, and then Lunar Ecstasy. After those the Nose was chill.

If you’re just looking for a good crack bushwhack is great when it’s not busy, but don’t be the guy aiding it when there is a line 

bsmootwrote:

Perhaps you could try a climbing gym when it's not crowded. You'll still need to learn sooner or later aiding a crack...may as well start that soon. Climbing a big wall in a reasonable amount of time takes a LOT of practice.

Now I know why there's all those ice tool marks on the holds at the gym.

Probably getting to warm and crowded but Touchstone was an easy enough route to go aid solo for a first time.

In Rock Canyon  on the bolt slab there is Meadow Muffin I believe it is the first 5.12 in Utah but before that it was an aid bolt ladder.  It has 2 easy hook moves and if I remember right one nut placement near the top. Other than that it is a bolt ladder perfect for working on your movement up your ladders.  You can also scramble around to the top of the rock to set up a top rope.