Type: Aid, 75 ft
FA: n/a
Page Views: 1,732 total · 12/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the bolt ladder that takes you to the Peeler Direct Route.

About 12 Bolts and bolts with no hangers. Every other bolt has a bolt hanger. There is a two bolt belay about 8 bolts up, then goes about 4 more bolts to the Thin crack of Peeler Direct.

Protection

Draws, wire nuts for the bolts without hangers, or use a Pika Keyhole hanger.
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Sadly, this unnecessary pitch bypasses some very good climbing on the original Black Peeler. Jul 5, 2010
agreed. The flake and ramp on the first pitch to move out to Peeler Direct is good climbing. Jul 6, 2010
Chase Bowman
Durango
Chase Bowman   Durango
I'm confused about the bolt that's three bolts away from the second bolt, that's near the bolts at the bolted anchor. Apr 14, 2016
Jon LostVegan
SL,UT
  C1
Jon LostVegan   SL,UT
  C1
Start at the hollow flake below the river/bolt ladder. 2 bolts, one of them spinners, 3 rivets. A hook move onto Small cams in a hollow flake, and a #2 ball-nut or cam-hook up top before the anchors. 2 places mandatory free (easy 5.6 mantles). Great practice top-stepping on a fun but really short pitch. Jan 17, 2018