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Black Peeler
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C3- PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 12
votes
Routes in Peeler Face
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R |
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Between Iraq and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 |
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Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hell Broke Luce T A2+ |
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Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peeler Direct C2 |
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Riveting 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C1 |
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Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 |
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Skin Man T A3 |
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Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Tin Man T A3 |
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Whoops T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 375 ft (114 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bill Conrod and Steve Ellsworth, Sept. 1965 |
| Page Views: | 3,563 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This was the first route on the steep, southeast face of the Black Peeler. No bolts were placed on the first ascent; in fact, this route stayed bolt-free until the early 1980's. Although seldom done compared to the Peeler Direct, this natural line, which follows the principal weakness of the face, offers some great climbing. This route and especially the Peeler Direct became a rite of passage for all early aspiring aid climbers in the Wasatch...training ground for Yosemite.
P1: Climb a short, clean flake (5.10 or C1) to a large ramp. Hand traverse left and follow cracks to a hanging belay underneath a long narrow roof...great pitch. (You can also belay at the hand traverse, 2 pins).
P2: Traverse right underneath the roof...the crack is wide and thin (C2/3 or 5.10+) to a belay on a sloping ledge at 2 bolts.
P3: Shuffle right to a thin aid crack (don't fall here) and ascend this beauty to another ramp. Belay at its end (C1 or C2).
P4: Climb a short groove to a steep hand/fist crack on the right. Jam or aid this to the top. (5.7 C2 or 5.10).
Rap bolts will be seen to the east. Two ropes are needed (160').
History
"The next weekend we made the successful climb on a nice fall day, but the days were getting short and we were benighted at the top. Being young and inexperienced, we had no extra clothing so passed the night by intense shivering. It hit 29 degrees at the SLC airport. Fortunately for us, we were above the down-canyon draft and had the high metabolisms of youth.
"We aided most of the climb, and it was the hardest and most sustained aid route in the canyon at the time. Aid climbing still had a bit of a Yosemite-esque mystique."
—Bill Conrod
- The first 2 pitches to the midway ledges were freed by Jim Donini and Mark Ward in the early 80's.
- The first clean ascents were done in the late 70's.
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