Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Area Description

This area contains routes on the eastern portion of the Black Peeler Buttress. Routes face southeast, east & northeast.

The “Peeler Face” has historically been the main attraction to this buttress. It is located on the lower southeast face. The rock is mostly steep and featureless, lending itself to aid routes and very technical free routes. The approach is a little steep when you near the base of the wall. But it isn't a very long hike.

The routes further up the hill gradually wrap around to face east and northeast. The approach to these areas is incredibly long and arduous. The soil is loose, vegetation is thick and some routes require 4th Class climbing on a slab to reach their starts.

Approach

A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
 
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork right here and contour up canyon until an obvious trail heads uphill. This trail goes up before cutting above slabs to the base of the wall. 

History

This area was mostly developed in the 1980s by a variety of climbers using various tactics.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peeler Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C2
 25
Peeler Direct
Aid
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
 7
Black Peeler
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
 3
The Serpent
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peeler Direct
 25
C2 Aid
Black Peeler
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Serpent
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Peeler Face »

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Photos

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face staying on SLCA leased property. See the approach map in the photos section for details. Oct 22, 2018 · Temporary Report