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Peeler Face Climbing
Routes in Peeler Face
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R |
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Between Iraq and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 |
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Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hell Broke Luce T A2+ |
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Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peeler Direct C2 |
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Riveting 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C1 |
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Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 |
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Skin Man T A3 |
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Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Tin Man T A3 |
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Whoops T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,378 ft | 1,944 m |
| GPS: |
40.5741, -111.7479 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 30,532 total · 147/month | |
| Shared By: | GRK on Oct 31, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Area Description
This area contains routes on the eastern portion of the Black Peeler Buttress. Routes face southeast, east & northeast.
The “Peeler Face” has historically been the main attraction to this buttress. It is located on the lower southeast face. The rock is mostly steep and featureless, lending itself to aid routes and very technical free routes. The approach is a little steep when you near the base of the wall. But it isn't a very long hike.
The routes further up the hill gradually wrap around to face east and northeast. The approach to these areas is incredibly long and arduous. The soil is loose, vegetation is thick and some routes require 4th Class climbing on a slab to reach their starts.
The “Peeler Face” has historically been the main attraction to this buttress. It is located on the lower southeast face. The rock is mostly steep and featureless, lending itself to aid routes and very technical free routes. The approach is a little steep when you near the base of the wall. But it isn't a very long hike.
The routes further up the hill gradually wrap around to face east and northeast. The approach to these areas is incredibly long and arduous. The soil is loose, vegetation is thick and some routes require 4th Class climbing on a slab to reach their starts.
Approach
A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork right here and contour up canyon until an obvious trail heads uphill. This trail goes up before cutting above slabs to the base of the wall.
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork right here and contour up canyon until an obvious trail heads uphill. This trail goes up before cutting above slabs to the base of the wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Peeler Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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