Peeler Face Climbing
|GPS:||40.574, -111.748 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||24,280 total · 145/month|
|Shared By:||GRK on Oct 31, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
The Peeler Face has historically been the main attraction to this buttress. It is located on the lower southeast face. The rock is mostly steep and featureless, lending itself to aid routes and very technical free routes. The approach is a little steep when you near the base of the wall. But it isn't a very long hike.
The routes further up the hill gradually wrap around to face east and northeast. The approach to these areas is incredibly long and arduous. The soil is loose, vegetation is thick and some routes require 4th Class climbing on a slab to reach their starts.
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork right here and contour up canyon until an obvious trail heads uphill. This trail goes up before cutting above slabs to the base of the wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Peeler Face
Days w Precip