"50 Worst Climbs of North America"

Is there a way to filter routes on this site with the most # of bomb/1* ratings? I feel like there has got to be some bad muddy desert routes that are definite contenders, or the rock in the san juans: Chimney Rock I know theres way gnarlier worse routes on that feature but not on the site.

I would like to nominate Split Rock Slot as the worst route in the San Francisco Bay Area. It is probably the worst climb I have ever done in my entire climbing career to date. Its awkward, short and in a rather mediocre location. It has 0.3 stars here, and I think that is 0.3 stars too many.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/117275445

I'm surprised that no-one has mentioned Pinnacles National Park yet.

Pinnacles has a lot of fantastic climbing and a long and great climbing history. Some routes there include loose rock though (and a whole sub-set of "climbers" love to whine about it; you know, the type of "climbers" who really should be bowling instead?).

A route called  Herchel Berchel there is definitely one of the worst. Here's the description:

 Herchel Berchel  5.11a R  All but the most experienced Pinnacles leaders should avoid this climb.  The first pitch involves good rock, but is covered by sheets of moss and dirt.  The second pitch is cleaner, but the rock is rotten.  The third pitch is on clean, mostly solid rock, but is horribly run out.  At least the route’s crux section is fairly well protected.

I've led all three pitches and wouldn't touch the route again for love or money.

better living through chemistry in smugglers notch. It’s supposed to be completely bolted, but it’s rated PG/R. It’s over 20 years old and the holds still break off of it when you climb it.

Otto's Route on Independence Monument, CO has my vote for the worst route I've attempted. It starts on sandy, dusty dishes up ugly corners with old drilled holes nearby that look like they might be hand holds but aren't. Then into a hopeless holdless squeeze slot with cold wind blowing down it. That's as far as we got.

Joyless - "Joyless is runout, dangerous, with poor protection and blocks the size of your head that can easy pull free from a cam or a foot".

Nobody's mentioned any chossy limestone trad big walls yet? Here in CO you've got the magnificent International Buttress and Canada's got an entire province full of the stuff (exhibit A).

Bill Engerwrote:

Otto's Route on Independence Monument, CO has my vote for the worst route I've attempted. It starts on sandy, dusty dishes up ugly corners with old drilled holes nearby that look like they might be hand holds but aren't. Then into a hopeless holdless squeeze slot with cold wind blowing down it. That's as far as we got.

Holdless? That's what the drilled pockets are for!

Bill Engerwrote:

Otto's Route on Independence Monument, CO has my vote for the worst route I've attempted. It starts on sandy, dusty dishes up ugly corners with old drilled holes nearby that look like they might be hand holds but aren't. Then into a hopeless holdless squeeze slot with cold wind blowing down it. That's as far as we got.

I'm trying to craft a retort but all that comes out is

Seems like this should be limited to well known popular routes that in fact suck. The dog routes people line up for.

Otto’s route certainly qualifies

Flyboys in Mazama, long and mediocre

Calculus Crack loads of mediocre climbing with maybe a pitches worth of good cracks.

Might as well add in the Squamish Buttress

so on and so forth 

My answer would be a relatively new route that tons of people around here have climbed: Princess Ella's Magical Adventure near Ouray. A 4 pitch fully bolted 5.8 at 10,000 ft? Sounds like a blast! In reality it was 3 pitches of 5.5-5.6 and one pitch of 5.8. Yawn, the approach was more interesting than the climb. Not a bad route by any stretch but not worth the hype.

As someone who has gotten a small taste of Pinnacles adventure routes, I feel very confident in saying that Brad Young's submission is a horror show beyond my comprehension or indeed that of most people here. You should see the kind of routes that dude thinks are fun! 

He's a masochistic insane climber and one of the rare few true adventure climbers and a local treasure. Brad's submission wins this thread so far by a considerable margin IMO. 

Mike Morleywrote:

Joyless - "Joyless is runout, dangerous, with poor protection and blocks the size of your head that can easy pull free from a cam or a foot".

Wow this route looks absolutely spine tickling good add 

Everything at kings bluff in TN

Bill Engerwrote:

Otto's Route on Independence Monument, CO has my vote for the worst route I've attempted. It starts on sandy, dusty dishes up ugly corners with old drilled holes nearby that look like they might be hand holds but aren't. Then into a hopeless holdless squeeze slot with cold wind blowing down it. That's as far as we got.

You’re just upset that a bunch of cowboys got the FA back in the 1800’s.    

My Grinchiest hot take is that Ancient Art (or stolen chimney or whatever) deserves to be on this list. 

MattHwrote:

Nobody's mentioned any chossy limestone trad big walls yet? Here in CO you've got the magnificent International Buttress and Canada's got an entire province full of the stuff (exhibit A).

And the big walls on notch peak are contenders Notch Peak 12 Pitch, Grade IV, 5.11 limestone monster.

Most of these are out west.

Good.

P Bwrote:

Offering up North Chimney beneath the Diamond. Racing multiple parties in the dark at 4am while simuling/freesoloing is uniquely terrifying. Rocks kicked loose, flying by you left and right was an experience I won’t forget nor do I look forward to repeating… 

The Diamond looks amazing, but North Chimney shows its true colors in fractured, loose rock from far away.

It's not so bad when you are in there alone but I do not enjoy being in there when people are simuling! Running a rope across it makes it way more dangerous to anybody else in there. Safest to only pitch out a distinct crux if someone in the team needs it. Last time I was up there, two teams were simuling and one team passed the other team. Terrifying!

Dave Aliewrote:

My Grinchiest hot take is that Ancient Art (or stolen chimney or whatever) deserves to be on this list. 

Cleanest route there actually! If you do any of the other fisher routes your pangus will crawl back into your stomach they are seriously muddy/scary. But ya that zone def deserves to be on the list.