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"50 Worst Climbs of North America"
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I'm working on a book that'll be the worst selling climbing book. What routes would you nominate for the worst climbs in North America? 2) DOES NOT have a noteworthy climbing history 3) offer climbing of excellent CHOSS quality Added 4) You have climbed it. |
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I thought about Coronado Heights, in Kansas, but them realized it is probably the most striking and less chossy climbing in Kansas. Even had bolts installed to prevent damage from people trying to sling the crenellations.  |
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I'm not sure I'm qualified to speak on the worst routes in North America, but as far as single pitch sport climbing goes The Mark Cartier Memorial Route at Smith Rock has got to be the most unpleasant route I've ever been on. (all respect to Mark, but the route is no fun). Kind of squeezed in there too |
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Obviously the pink route in the corner. |
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Edit: I guess it might be a noteworthy climb as James Garret did the FA and he's a badass. |
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out of bed every morning... |
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40 ft ladder I climb up with a paint bucket everyday. |
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Anything at the midget widget walk In Eastern Idaho . The place rains mud constantly, Safety glasses mandatory |
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Pretty sure the entire state of Colorado belongs on this list. That’s right. Come to California and fight me. You’ll drive past world class crags before you get to my door once you leave your puny square shaped state. |
Kevin Crumwrote: Good for you, just please stay there. |
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The entire cliff of Table Mtn. In Golden. Short, greasy, and stinks of the Coors plant. |
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In an attempt to gather data to answer this question, I went to my page. I give a star rating to routes I do, and that I remember well enough from the past, if they are in the MP database. I have starred 1774 routes, which is 50 pp. Only 1 route have I given a bomb rating, and it's one I entered in the database! The only other person to star it, also rated it a bomb. It's definitely chossy. And yet I can't nominate it for inclusion in your book because I enjoyed climbing it. I also looked through the other 4.5 pp of routes that I gave 1 star and nothing jumped out at me as worst-book worthy. Sorry, I have failed you. |
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A certain 5.3 slab bolted over petroglyphs comes to mind. |
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Willey's Slide, although I hear it's only the second-worst ice climb in New Hampshire. |
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La petite bazaar at phantasia in the RRG. Horrible mossy dihedral in the way back ofan actually nice crag. And a small tree with a rap ring slung around it. |
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This belongs here |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106181170 5.8 that sucks, spent about 25 minutes shimmying up it my first season climbing. And watched my friend spend about 40 doing the same. Never met a local that found it fun while climbing it. Made for some good memories though |
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https://www.google.com/maps/@32.225065,-106.5983353,212a,35y,39.08t/data=!3m1!1e3 All of this rock (the Peña blanca area in NM) gets my vote. Same patina'ed syenite as Hueco but the patina isn't consistently bonded to the rock. The bouldering is just plain mediocre but the big stuff will kill you (hence the shortage of non-TR roped routes) - the patina fractures into sheets under light pressure and it's hard to tell what's good and what's not by visual inspection. A death-trap facsimile of Hueco dwarfed by the Organs to the North. |
 Offering up North Chimney beneath the Diamond. Racing multiple parties in the dark at 4am while simuling/freesoloing is uniquely terrifying. Rocks kicked loose, flying by you left and right was an experience I won’t forget nor do I look forward to repeating…
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