Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
|South Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Melvin Griffiths, Robert Ormes, 1934|
|Page Views:||2,110 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||S.Mckinna on Apr 27, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionChimney Rock is eye catching to anyone, especially a climber. I have a feeling this gets attempted way more than it gets done though. The approach is as tough as the climbing. Climb up fun and sometimes unprotectable cobble for 3 pitches. Then do an optional 4th pitch traverses to the summit, it's nice to have protection for a step across a chasm.
When heading to the start of the route, head toward the small summit on the ridge south of the peak, walk up steep unpleasantness. 5th class scrambling is unavoidable as you get closer to the top of the ridge. This isn't protectable and is kind of sketchy. Once on the ridge, traverse to the start of the chimney.
Pitch one climbs up a huge chockstone that has a belay on top.
Pitch 2 was the most sustained and had a bolt and cracks for a belay. I wish I did this next step: unrope and scramble up the chimney to where the rock steepens again.
Pitch 3 is a rope stretcher still but shouldn't be a problem from the new belay spot.
The fourth pitch was short and just helped a step/jump but probably isn't needed, unless you're me.
We did 3 double rope raps down the route. Then rappel from a tree to get down the 5th class lower on the approach.
Enjoy the adventure and be careful! Keep in mind that your belayer isn't going to enjoy rockfall.