Best Long, easy-moderate, bolted routes???

David Gibbswrote:

Estrellita, El Potrero Chico.  1100 feet / 12 pitches (11 climbing, one 3rd class).  Nominally 5.10b as usually climbed -- but rarely harder than 5.9 and the crux 5.10b section can be avoided by going off-line on 5.7 jugs.  Good climbing, ending on a an exposed ridge with a lone palm tree.

And, EPC is, as noted, a very good source of may moderate (approachable by a 5.10 sport leader) bolted routes.  In fact, it probably has the absolute best collection of concentrated bolted multi-pitch sport routes in North America.

This looks so nice.  This probably is a hard route by the criteria I am inventing here.  Covering 12 pitches in a day with so many at the cusp of moderate difficulty is not easy but would be awesome. 

Pete Swrote:

Lion King in Selkirks, Priest Lake Idaho.  5.10, 15 pitches.  Variant is The Brotherhood, and use this for the descent!

The Lion King is fun and meets the O P requirements.  However, over grading it to 5.10 does no one any favors.  There isn’t a move over 5.9.  Even with the brotherhood start.  It is a fun route and good for anyone.  The crew that equipped these two should be proud of their efforts.  

First step to becoming a via ferrata-er. 

D4 on the Davis Face in Buena Vista (renamed the Tao I guess). Really fun, great setting 9+

As I like to say, regarding climbing/approaches/XC-backpacking/etc... "If it was easy, everyone would be doing it"

Find the crowded route, and there's your long, easy, bolted route. 

Sometimes it is just fun to cruise along on sub-5.10 terrain unencumbered by a trad rack, hang out on the side of a cliff all day, enjoy great scenery, and maybe top out on a peak or a formation. My first taste of this was on Wherever I May Roam at Smith Rock. I thought it was really fun route, but that was almost 20 years ago so not sure how it is these days. I don't get to travel much these days, so most of my recent experiences are in Colorado.

Royal Flush is popular but really not all that good. Its popularity is probably due to its easy access and length, especially if you go by the original pitch count. But it's really a link up of 2-3 rock formations instead of one continuous route. So you don't get to hang out on the side of a cliff all day (some walking is involved to get to the next formation) except to wait in a conga line, and scenery on I-70 behind you is less than inspiring.

I'm hesitant to mention Wizard's Gate because I'd hate to see the area turn into a junk show, but seems like the secret is already out. Return of the King and Not Wizard's Gate are both easy but engaging, the difficulty of the pitches is more consistent, and the setting is beautiful. They are not super long, so I'd suggest climbing Return of the King first (which tops out), and if you have gas left in the tank afterwards, climb Not Wizard's Gate just to the right of Wizard's Gate. While I thought the rock quality is generally good, there was a fatal accident here due to rock fall earlier this year, so definitely pay attention to loose rock since there are also a number of excellent single pitch routes in the area and it's getting popular.

There are some other easy bolted multi-pitch around like the Young and Rackless, but if you include some moderate 5.10s in your search then you really open up a lot of options. Devil's Head Rock has a few high quality 5.10s that are long, continuous, and very scenic. The only sub-10 multi-pitch route at Devil's Head Rock is 5.8 and very much a "meh". The Jungle at Devil's Head also has a couple bolted multi-pitch but they are shorter and not as good as the ones on Devil's Head Rock. The only 5.9 at the Jungle is really mostly 5.6 climbing with one insecure "5.9" move (I'd personally call it 5.10a) right above a ankle busting ledge. The other 5.10 multi-pitch at the Jungle are better quality than the 5.9 and don't feel harder than the single "5.9" move.

Tell you whats cool is really good but its 5.7 A0 or 9+ your choice ;)    

aikibujinwrote:

I'm hesitant to mention Wizard's Gate because I'd hate to see the area turn into a junk show, but seems like the secret is already out.

Yep, that ship has sailed. 

Technically Wizard’s Gate is just a small (but popular) portion of the Lower Great Face. There are so many great long(ish) routes here that get no love. It seems all anyone wants to do is line up on the conga lines. 

Europe is the place to go for this style. There's probably more long, good sport routes than trad routes there. Spain, Greece, Austria, Swizerland, Italy, etc.

Here in the US there's some in Vegas, Smith, CO, WA, etc (as well as some long bolted slabs on the east coast that aren't exactly sport).

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105800894/cross-trainer is the only sub-5.10 sport-bolted multi I've done that didn't feel like a slog/snoozefest, partly because the bolting was so weird (a mix of overbolted and runout) and the rock less than bomber, but IDK if that makes it the best. I'm sure some bolted granite slab somewhere is better, I just don't climb much slab. Anything steeper under 5.10 is going to have a lot of ledgy 5.4 linking the interesting sections.

In the 10s, the biggest standouts in my mind are:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114376102/la-cara-perfecta-ten

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732431/unimpeachable-groping

But having never climbed either, I can't comment on their actual quality - I just know they look incredible and I've wanted to climb them for years.

MattHwrote:

Europe is the place to go for this style. There's probably more long, good sport routes than trad routes there. Spain, Greece, Austria, Swizerland, Italy, etc.

Here in the US there's some in Vegas, Smith, CO, WA, etc (as well as some long bolted slabs on the east coast that aren't exactly sport).

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105800894/cross-trainer is the only sub-5.10 sport-bolted multi I've done that didn't feel like a slog/snoozefest, probably because the bolting was so weird (a mix of overbolted and runout) and the rock less than bomber, but I wouldn't  call it the best. I'm sure some bolted granite slab somewhere is better, I just don't climb much slab. Anything steeper under 5.10 is going to have a lot of ledgy 5.4 linking the interesting sections. 

In the 10s, the biggest standouts in my mind are:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114376102/la-cara-perfecta-ten

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732431/unimpeachable-groping

But having never climbed either, I can't comment on their actual quality - I just know they look incredible and I've wanted to climb them for years.

I have climbed Cross Trainer several times and always enjoyed it.  Not sure why it’s gets 2.5 stars. 

Check out Mission Wall in Clear Creek.

Kai Larsonwrote:

Sinocranium.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105740942/sinocranium

Sinocranium is a really fun climb, but keep in mind its mostly 5.easy to get to the 5.8 moves, then the last "pitch" is hiking to the summit. Well worth it if you're in City. While it doesn't have an epic number of pitches, I think Theater of Shadows is an equally good climb (and more sustained for the grade)

Mike V.wrote:

Sinocranium is a really fun climb, but keep in mind its mostly 5.easy to get to the 5.8 moves, then the last "pitch" is hiking to the summit. Well worth it if you're in City. While it doesn't have an epic number of pitches, I think Theater of Shadows is an equally good climb (and more sustained for the grade)

I haven’t climbed and I agree that 5.8 grade on one pitch might not be ideal for all and certainly not epic or classic. The suggestions like Fly Boys and Prime Rib have made me think about how long is too long and if an epic number of pitches can be easy and fun for me (or others) seeking a chill day out.  In one or two of these Honnold/Caldwell movies, Caldwell says ‘it’s really fun moving fast in the mountains.’  I really appreciate that quality in easy climbs which are the only way my ability allows me to relate to Caldwell’s comment.  

In the case by this arbitrary and ill defined criteria,  the cruiser/5.easy pitches aren’t a negative.   But again your point is completely valid. 

Mike V.wrote:

I think Theater of Shadows is an equally good climb (and more sustained for the grade)

Agree that Theater of Shadows is a lovely easy climb. Scenic setting, easy but enjoyable climbing, very closely bolted, a neat summit, steep rap off the back. Very chill outing.

Also fairly nearby, there are several 4 pitch bolted 5.7s at Castle Rock which are nice also.

Sino Cranium is also really fun and I suspect that it would go pretty easily at 5.5 A0 for an adventurous  beginner team.   I don't remember anything longer than 2 pitches @ Castle rock? what am i missing? 

Live Perchedwrote:

In my understanding, Moderate starts at 5.10 or maybe 5.9.  Easy is easier than 5.10.  Funny considering 5.10 originally designated the limit of human ability.

I climb trad.  But carrying gear seems sooo difficult now that I am spoiled by bolted routes.  I am looking to go soft and stay soft. Never really been hard anyway.

Royal Flush looks very sweet.

5.10 R on gear is an easy route?   Not for me it’s not.  

moderate is classic 5.7-5.9 routes

5.9+ to 5.10 is advanced

5.11 and up is elite

easy is 5.6 to 5.0

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Sino Cranium is also really fun and I suspect that it would go pretty easily at 5.5 A0 for an adventurous  beginner team.   I don't remember anything longer than 2 pitches @ Castle rock? what am i missing? 

4 pitch, 5.7 Big Time on the South Slabs of the Castle Rock formation. Tons of variations. You can link the pitches down, so I suppose you could just count it as two pitches? 

For long, easy mileage, climb Sinocranium and hit Felspfeiler on your way down -- a super fun 5.8 that tops out on a separate pinnacle from Steinfell's Dome. You will be eye level with the cool quartzite vein crux pitch of Sinocranium. Gather your gear at the base of Sino and head over to Theater of Shadows. Can easily cover ~1200 feet in half a day. 

Live Perchedwrote:

Young and Rackless 5.9 four pitches 

Fractures Fairytales 5.8 six pitches

both these routes do not go anywhere cool, like they do not summit so that sucks. 

a good multi pitch sport climb should top out a feature. 

young n rackless is sand bag if u are not 6 foot tall it has a 10b-c crux unless u can reach the jug and smear

as always bring a mr stiffy or make one 

fractured is more like 5.6 than 5.8 and better done as a simul climb with 1-3 micro tracks or tib locks at the 5.7 crux as it is mostly contrived boring climbing and the route ends up in no mans land no on a shoulder of loose rock, better to scramble up helens dome and rap off

oh and it is hard to find the first pitch, and hard to follow the wondering p2-p3 and to even get there from the car u gotta cross a medium size wading or cross the creek down stream 15 min on a big ponderosa (recommended) or on slippery little logs then follow carnes from the ranch fence line up a class 5 scramble on a slab  to then down scramble boulders along the base bring topos

Not a sport route but an all bolt route that is one of the more memorable climbs I've done: Feather Canyon in Pinnacles. 

Scary route at times but not any worse than Snake Dike probably. Or maybe it is. It's got runouts in chimneys-- don't fall there. But 10/10 what a great adventure. 

Live Perchedwrote:

I have climbed Cross Trainer several times and always enjoyed it.  Not sure why it’s gets 2.5 stars. 

The low star rating has to do with the original bolted belays being so weird and some of the original on route bolts were poorly placed.  The route has been improved somewhat from when the original ratings were given to it but those ratings bring down the average.