Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jim Langford & Doug Cardinal, 10/1973|
|Page Views:||10,338 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||John Knight on Oct 27, 2009 with 2 Suggestions|
|Admins:||andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Parknps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
From the west side parking lot, you'll need about 8 hours "car to car" for the whole adventure. See approach & descent description below. This is rated "only" 5.8 but would not be a good route for someone just breaking into that grade.
Pitch 1 5.5: From the stacked boulders, work your way left up a short ramp (sling the small tree for protection) then head right using a few chimney moves. Scramble into the HUGE chamber and belay off two new bolts on the right wall.
Pitch 2 3rd & 4th Class: Pick up the belay and move to the far end of the chamber. Youll have to do a few chimney moves to get to the start of the next pitch. You'll have passed under the large chockstone and be at the highest point just before the floor starts to drop.
Pitch 3 5.6: This improbable pitch, chimneys and stems its way back toward the chockstone 70 over your head. From the highest point of the chamber floor, (facing back toward the chockstone), look up about 15 on the right wall and youll see your first bolt. Youll clip two bolts on the right wall and then switch and clip 2 bolts on the left wall (4 total). Somewhere around bolt 3 youll need to switch from stemming/chimneying to climbing the left wall. At the top, cross over the chockstone and belay from the shrub/small tree.
Pitch 4 5.8: Move the belay from the small tree to the base of a water chute/chimney. You should be standing beneath 2 closely spaced bolts. The crux of this pitch is making it past the 1st bolt. There are a total of 3 bolts on this pitch. Once at the top move through a scree filled trough and belay from a small tree at the back of the chute.
Pitch 5 5.6: Move the belay north (right) to the base of another water chute/chimney. Start just right of the water chute, clip one bolt, then move left into the chimney and clip one more bolt. Belay from another small tree at the back of the meadow.
Pitch 6 5.3: Move the belay right, past the most obvious pinnacle, just below a short wall (about 10). Climb the short wall (no protection), then move right and climb another short, unprotected wall (about 15) to the top of a pinnacle. Belay by placing a large loop or rope over the pinnacle to your right.
Pitch 7 5.4: Climb down 10 and then up a small face past one bolt. From the top of this face, walk down and left and belay at one bolt in front of another face.
Pitch 8 5.4: Step out left onto an exposed ledge, clip 1 bolt, then move right up a ramp and clip another bolt as you move to the top of the pinnacle. Work your way over a series of humps and clip 1 more bolt before reaching the south summit of H & L Dome. Belay from 2 old bolts on the south summit.
Pitch 9 5.1: Downclimb from the south summit then climb back up to the north summit. One short rappel from the chains on the north summit of H & L Dome will get you back to the ground.
Descent: Approximately 2 miles and 1 hour. Take the use trail from H & L Dome/Tuff Dome back to the High Peaks Trail to collect your packs. Turn left on the High Peaks Trail and then right on the Tunnel Trail back toward the parking lot. The descent takes about an hour.