New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

I thought I’d swing by and visit a very special Lady. Voodoo Chile playing on my headset while I’m out wandering alone on a Saturday morning and somehow the whole scene becomes surreal. I keep hearing people talk about the spiritual vibe in Joshua Tree. Some days it’s overwhelming.  

I call this route “Person of Non-Binary Gender With Dubious Moral Turpitude”.

Wendy… after a lot of trial and error, and taking into account all the science I can read, I am on a very high-fat, moderate protein diet.  Over time I eliminated all PUFAs (polyunsaturated fats) and have only extra virgin olive oil, coconut oil and ghee (clarified organic butter) in the kitchen, and I eat a lot of it.  I would probably eat the fat on meat and leave the meat if I had to choose, tonight I’m having short ribs braised all day in wine.  Eggs, cheese, butter, cream… these are all carriers of the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, K which we vitally need.  I won’t eat kale.  I, too, have discovered that I have to greatly limit fructose… and damn it’s in everything.  I think the reason I got so sick during the diabetic emergency is because I had to guzzle 7-ups all night… fructose.  So, the occasional piece of fruit… no more smoothies or vegetable juices for me.  There’s just too much sugar/fructose.

The challenge is rolling with the changes in life. As a 20 year old I thrived as a vegetarian. Today I wouldn’t be able to function.  “Lean poultry and fish” leaves me weak and depressed.  I finally started paying attention to what my body at this age and this level of exercise was insisting upon.  Now, on climbing days, I make every attempt to hit 100 grams of protein… a rib eye steak, half baked potato loaded with butter and sour cream… creamed spinach because I love it, big salad with olive oil.  My cholesterol has never been better. On the morning of a day of climbing 3 eggs, organic bacon, coffee.  

Go with what your body tells you.  It may not be like mine… but if you listen you’ll figure it out. 

Kristian Solemwrote:

Jumping back a bit here...

Last I heard Blaine Harmon quit climbing because he couldn't stop himself from doing things like soloing Smiladon, and he knew he was gonna die? Rumor from a reliable source. In any case that's one hell of a thing to solo. Anybody could biff it on that thing.

I used to see him a lot at the Needles. Never tied in with him, but he's a great guy and I wish I had.

I'll quit promoting Courtright. I just think Lori should make it a destination. And you have to figure that 99% of the climbers who frequent this site see the "over 50" heading on this thread and pass right on by. A few geezers up at Courtright won't cause much harm.   

I agree, Lori would love the climbing there, particularly those slab routes on Sex Wall which you featured in your photo of Herb. Unfortunately it’s pretty far from cell service and emergency services, so I can see why Lori might have some hesitation about that with her diabetic concerns. I’m always trying to get people to make the trip up there with me, I absolutely love the climbing, scenery, and free camping. I rarely see climbers when I’m out there, although last summer there was a noticeable uptick in fisherpeople, off-roaders, campers, and even a few more climbers than I’ve seen in previous years. Overcrowding isn’t really an issue yet, but I can’t think of any awesome Sierra crags that would benefit from an online ad campaign, so yeah, shhhhhh!

On an unrelated note, was looking through some of the more neglected records in my collection the other day and noticed this:

I believe I have a few records that you worked on in my collection, pretty cool that these guys gave you such a prominent credit on the sleeve, they must have liked working with you.

Sam Cieplywrote:

On an unrelated note, was looking through some of the more neglected records in my collection the other day and noticed this:

I believe I have a few records that you worked on in my collection, pretty cool that these guys gave you such a prominent credit on the sleeve, they must have liked working with you.

Styles of Beyond 2000 Fold? That crew was a blast. And talented.

Credits for mastering are touch and go at best. Sometimes the artwork gets done with credits, then they decide to change up who's gonna master it at the last minute. That happened to me on three Snoop Dog albums. They have someone else's name on them. Then a lot of people just don't bother, which in the case of a few projects, was fine by me.   

Tim Schafstallwrote:

I was 20 minutes from you earlier today.  Hill, NH currently.

Welcome to NH! Are you on a climbing trip? The weather is not being good to us...

Lori Milaswrote:

I thought I’d swing by and visit a very special Lady. Voodoo Chile playing on my headset while I’m out wandering alone on a Saturday morning and somehow the whole scene becomes surreal. I keep hearing people talk about the spiritual vibe in Joshua Tree. Some days it’s overwhelming.  

I call this route “Person of Non-Binary Gender With Dubious Moral Turpitude”.

Wendy… after a lot of trial and error, and taking into account all the science I can read, I am on a very high-fat, moderate protein diet.  Over time I eliminated all PUFAs (polyunsaturated fats) and have only extra virgin olive oil, coconut oil and ghee (clarified organic butter) in the kitchen, and I eat a lot of it.  I would probably eat the fat on meat and leave the meat if I had to choose, tonight I’m having short ribs braised all day in wine.  Eggs, cheese, butter, cream… these are all carriers of the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, K which we vitally need.  I won’t eat kale.  I, too, have discovered that I have to greatly limit fructose… and damn it’s in everything.  I think the reason I got so sick during the diabetic emergency is because I had to guzzle 7-ups all night… fructose.  So, the occasional piece of fruit… no more smoothies or vegetable juices for me.  There’s just too much sugar/fructose.

The challenge is rolling with the changes in life. As a 20 year old I thrived as a vegetarian. Today I wouldn’t be able to function.  “Lean poultry and fish” leaves me weak and depressed.  I finally started paying attention to what my body at this age and this level of exercise was insisting upon.  Now, on climbing days, I make every attempt to hit 100 grams of protein… a rib eye steak, half baked potato loaded with butter and sour cream… creamed spinach because I love it, big salad with olive oil.  My cholesterol has never been better. On the morning of a day of climbing 3 eggs, organic bacon, coffee.  

Go with what your body tells you.  It may not be like mine… but if you listen you’ll figure it out. 

Long time since I've done that one, I used to do it every time I went to J Tree.  

dragonswrote:

Welcome to NH! Are you on a climbing trip? The weather is not being good to us...

Yup.  Watching it rain at Rumney   

Talking about losing weight, as Lori was in regards to the bride, the thing is thst if you're really fat, you can try hard and lose a couple of kilos but after all that effort and dieting you're still really fat. 

I weigh myself every day, and if I start to put on a but I will just skip dinner, either for one or two days. Generally, at 168cm, I want to be 65 to 65.9 kilos. At the moment I'm a bit heavy at about 66.5 kilos but it's winter. In spring I'll lose weight naturally... 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Talking about losing weight, as Lori was in regards to the bride, the thing is thst if you're really fat, you can try hard and lose a couple of kilos but after all that effort and dieting you're still really fat. 

Carl, you nailed it. I have nothing but compassion for anyone who is trying to lose weight.  In the bride’s case, she had lost 50 pounds with sheer will power, but had 50 more to go.  So, even with all of that weight loss, she was not the delicate bride she wished to be.  And worse, unless she makes some deep changes, she’ll gain that 50 pounds back.

We’ve talked about this here in so many ways.  Diet, exercise.  There’s no way around it.  

At the same time, some self-love is in order, too.  I feel bad that her memory of her wedding will be a little bit tarnished by being so overweight.  (But Tony is good at consoling, hopefully he’ll be a superstar tonight)

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I weigh myself every day, and if I start to put on a butt I will just skip dinner, either for one or two days. Generally, at 168cm, I want to be 65 to 65.9 kilos. At the moment I'm a bit heavy at about 66.5 kilos but it's winter. In spring I'll lose weight naturally... 

Fixed it for you, Carl. Cheers, mate.

I feel for the young lady. Sucks her weight issues are being discussed behind her back on a public forum.

And being laughed about by her own father. Good thing he is a good consoler.

Parachute Adamswrote:

I feel for the young lady. Sucks her weight issues are being discussed behind her back on a public forum.

And being laughed about by her own father. Good thing he is a good consoler.

This deserves to be quoted! Wholeheartedly agree! And who is anyone else to say her memory of the occasion will be tarnished by her weight? I hope she has a magical day and fully enjoys herself during her wedding. Her bridal party as well - hopefully they are the kind of friends who are comfortable and confident in their own skins, and supportive and accepting of her. Terrible they were being body shamed during this event - even if they weren't aware of it.

Jay Goodwinwrote:

Fixed it for you, Carl. Cheers, mate.

Ha ha that was suppossed to read 'put on a bit', but the fix is VAF (Valid As Fuck)... 

Tim Schafstallwrote:

Yup.  Watching it rain at Rumney   

Did you bring a kayak?

If you need a partner, hit me up. I'm busy some days, but might be able to swing it. Not sure about Bill.

Here's a few pics of COR. I'm working the starting crux of a magnificent route called Redtail, which I plan to send in September. You need every inch of an 80 meter rope to get down.

And a bit higher on the same route:

And here's another incredible route called Tribal Boundaries, which is a classic 10b.

 After COR, I had a break from climbing (aka work), then it was off to Lander, where I took two clinics aimed at older climbers. The first was with Eric Hörst, who's been doing his thing as a trainer for a very long time. This is the second time I've taken this clinic, and it helps, because it was a true information dump on training, performance and nutrition. We also climbed some.

Next was a clinic titled A.A.R.P., or Advanced Age RedPointing. This was with Chuck and Maggie Odette. Chuck is know for redpointing 14b at age 62. Maggie is a bit over 50, and she's climbing at the same level. They are an inspiring couple. The clinic was outstanding, and it really helped getting some direct coaching from both of them. Also, they just awesome people. In the small world category, a couple in the clinic, Don and Karen Wilson, are apparently friends with Brandt (they say hi!).

The climbing at Lander is hard. The pocketed dolomite varies from slightly less that vertical to nearly horizontal. There are a lot of people there climbing 5.13 and 5.14. It's really something, and really humbling. Lastly, the town of Lander couldn't be more welcoming to climbers. This is the 5th time I've been, and I don't see breaking the streak until I'm physically unable to travel. This year, the festival was a bit ragged around the edges, as they had to plan before they even knew a vaccine would be available. It's a nice size, not crazy big. All things considered, they did a great job. I recommend it! 

Victor Kwrote:

Here's a few pics of COR. I'm working the starting crux of a magnificent route called Redtail, which I plan to send in September. You need every inch of an 80 meter rope to get down.

You have the low crux wired and I think your beta on the upper crux (traverse move) is going to work - you will totally send in September. I still stand by that being one of the most fun rock climbs I have ever done. 40m of focus.

Victor Kwrote:

Here's a few pics of COR. I'm working the starting crux of a magnificent route called Redtail, which I plan to send in September. 

That's one of my favorite routes ever.  The boulder start is the on-paper crux but the pump really builds in the long 5.10 section higher up.  Another great route, Sudden Pleasure, is just a bit to the left.  That one is not nearly as pumpy but it is crimpy!

The climbing at Lander is hard. The pocketed dolomite varies from slightly less that vertical to nearly horizontal. There are a lot of people there climbing 5.13 and 5.14. It's really something, and really humbling. Lastly, the town of Lander couldn't be more welcoming to climbers. This is the 5th time I've been, and I don't see breaking the streak until I'm physically unable to travel. This year, the festival was a bit ragged around the edges, as they had to plan before they even knew a vaccine would be available. It's a nice size, not crazy big. All things considered, they did a great job. I recommend it! 

That sounds great.  I have never been there and I should put it on my life list. Argh!  There are so many places I'd love to get to to climb!  I've hardly done anything in CO either and I'd love to climb there.  I've had bad luck with rain on a couple of trips there.

The next thing on my "never been" list is to get to Devil's Tower.  I may try to do that in Spring 2022 with my British crack partner Andy.  Will co-ordinate with Jay Anderson (Jaybro) to have him walk us all around, show us approaches, point out routes, etc. Then next summer my husband and I plan to spend a month in France and Switzerland (hopefully).  Maybe scoot across the border into Italy so I can turn 70 in the land of all my ancestors!

Wow, Victor, that looks so fun! And, pretty high praise from Erika, too!

Now....is there a 5.8ish version??

Best, Helen

EDIT to add, and, maybe in my lifetime, I'll get to do even a few moves entirely inverted, lol! Maybe some boulder problem, where you're barely off the pads??

Then there's ice.....

Sigh.

@Erika - The clinic with the Odettes will show its value too. I definitely learned things about redpointing. I'm super pumped to not be super pumped. @phylp phylp - I'll work on Sudden Pleasure right after I redpoint Redtail! RE: Wild Iris, it's somewhat disorienting. You know it's world class, but it really doesn't look like much. The vast majority of climbs can be done with a 40m gym rope. But, it's just a wonderful place to be. And Lander is a gem. You should just go to the festival next year! Regarding CO, get advice from me, Erika, David H, etc because there are a zillion places to climb, and they vary wildly as destinations. @OLH - I still don't know COR well enough to make a rec, but the standard east face route on the 3rd Flatiron in Boulder is pretty amazing, and it goes at 5.4!

Victor Kwrote:

@Erika - The clinic with the Odettes will show its value too. I definitely learned things about redpointing. I'm super pumped to not be super pumped. 

Did the Odettes have any suggestions for how to warm up for a route like this? It's tough when there isn't really a good warm-up route nearby and the bouldery crux is off the ground.

Don't listen to those over achivers. The best way to send big routes at our age is to take full advantage of the Nylon Bucket. any upward progress is good progress :)