New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

The July Basho, wow Hakuho is breathing fire, he is pissed.

I love this thread we have going....

Gotez. The answer is gotez, John.

Be nice or I'll start shipping zucchinis out. They're stacking up like cordwood. Maybe I'll do some arm workouts, see if they'll pitch as far over the fence as the canal....

.....

Climbed at the gym today, just a fast six laps on an uber easy thing. Partner justs wants mileage, for now.

So, I mess around, see how much work I can push onto that left leg. Bend as deeply as it will go, then try to stand, one legged (pistol squats on the wall, basically). I have to have one or both hands pulling or pushing, otherwise I might as well take up cigars and enjoy the break, have a long smoke sitting there on that leg, cuz nothin at all is going to happen, with only that leg, under it's own power, unassisted.

And.

Got to do this while the kids climbing camp, just a parks and rec thing, not their youth team, was going. Little shits shorter than me....and, well. You can picture it. A hundred pounds lighter is most definitely cheating, isn't it????

H.

Helen, when do you qualify for Medicare? Do you plan to get the knee done then?

Mark - Yes Hakuho is back and looking strong. I hope he and Terunofuji both win tomorrow to set up up an exciting final Day 15 match-up.

wendy weisswrote:

Helen, when do you qualify for Medicare? Do you plan to get the knee done then?

65 is coming up soon, in January!

I'm still bendier than I'd be with a new knee, I am told, so for as long as possible, it's still the same thing, never prescribed, no money in it, not covered or encouraged by big med or insurance:

Watch your weight, keep moving.

And I'm not shoving a walker around, yet. That's the decider for old people stuff. Not "will this promote fitness", but is it so bad they can't get around. Lori's health care (and knowledge) is simply far, far, from the norm for most people. Remember, I went out to the elderly and poor, when I worked for the library. All that lovely writing about "for all" when our country started? Was a pretty selective, big boys club "all". 

Even more so, now.

Naw, the earlier post(s) is me whinging, my way of flogging myself into thinking about maybe doing more than netflix and cheesecake for a fitness plan, lol!

This athlete thing really snuck up on me!

But?

It also means I've got pretty easy gains to be made, when it's so pitiful. The starting numbers improve way easier than the tweaking performance ones for real athletes. And, I truly am way more healthy, stronger and fitter, without even trying, than almost any peer group in the normal population. Females, of most any age, I am stronger. Most everyone my age, I am far healthier. "Average" American is pretty bad, though. 

Best, Helen

Lori Milaswrote:

I thought 'crimping' was when you just dig your fingernails into sheer granite, and start believing you will stick.  Do I have that wrong?    

Hi there,

A lot of climbers rely on crimping to much. You'd be surprised what you can hold onto with an open hand, especially on less than vertical rock. It's kind of relaxing, and your tendons will thank you for it. Of course sometimes you just have to get down and crimp the sucker like a fiend, but I've seen lots of climbers crimping hard when they don't need to.

An example. My friend Bryan was following me up a route at Courtright Reservoir. The crux comes where the slab steepens. It's some kind of .10b rig. There's a decent edge in the wrong place, a sucker hold. He was trying to use it and fell off. That face features a lot of very thin upward facing flakes that you can try to crimp on, but Bryan is an endomorph, so trying such thin crimps wasn't going to be his recipe for success. When it became apparent that he wasn't going to get the move without some beta, I gave him some. I yelled down "forget about that out of balance hold. Just put your open hand where you want the hold to be and use whatever's there. Trust it and it'll work." Up he came on the next go at it. In that case keeping your hand open, pads of your fingers on the edge, and using your the heel of your hand for friction is the way to go. Of course that particular crux is a one move wonder, and doing that trick through a sequence of moves gets counterintuitive really  fast.

Herb Laeger climbing moderate slab at Courtright Reservoir with open hands where many would crimp:

Kristian Solemwrote:

Hi there,

A lot of climbers rely on crimping to much. You'd be surprised what you can hold onto with an open hand, especially on less than vertical rock. It's kind of relaxing, and your tendons will thank you for it. Of course sometimes you just have to get down and crimp the sucker like a fiend, but I've seen lots of climbers crimping hard when they don't need to.

An example. My friend Bryan was following me up a route at Courtright Reservoir. The crux comes where the slab steepens. It's some kind of .10b rig. There's a decent edge in the wrong place, a sucker hold. He was trying to use it and fell off. That face features a lot of very thin upward facing flakes that you can try to crimp on, but Bryan is an endomorph, so trying such thin crimps wasn't going to be his recipe for success. When it became apparent that he wasn't going to get the move without some beta, I gave him some. I yelled down "forget about that out of balance hold. Just put your open hand where you want the hold to be and use whatever's there. Trust it and it'll work." Up he came on the next go at it. In that case keeping your hand open, pads of your fingers on the edge, and using your the heel of your hand for friction is the way to go. Of course that particular crux is a one move wonder, and doing that trick through a sequence of moves gets counterintuitive really  fast.

Herb Laeger climbing moderate slab at Courtright Reservoir with open hands where many would crimp:

So this is Herb!  Heard so much about him, I’ve seen his name everywhere… now there is sorta a face to match the name.  

I instinctively use my hands and palms when I’m climbing steep slab, but I have to be reminded to fold my thumb over forefinger and pull down hard on more vertical moves.  That is taking some real learning… it doesn’t come naturally for me. .  Palms come easy, crimps not so much.  Thanks for the coaching, Kris… 

I’ll tell you honestly I’m worried about my toes.  Look at the weight put on Herb’s toes.  It’s just a painful reminder of the beating my toes take when I climb more vertical rock and slab.  Both of my big toes are partially numb…I’m not sure how it’s going to fly this coming year as I focus even more on slab routes.  I’d be interested in any advice/input on helping my feet and toes—I have talked to a Physical Therapist, we’ve got some therapy worked out, but I’m not sure it will be enough.   That would be some irony if the game-changer was painful toes… not a thrown shoulder or busted ankle.  

Here's a better shot of herb. We were on our way up to Locke Rock, a walk of about 5 miles from the dam at Courtright.

Here's a shot of Courtright from the summit of Locke Rock...  You must go to Courtright. You have an appointment with the rock.

Full on spray glory shot. Courtright isn't all slab either. Smiladon .12c, Tiger Wall...

In case you can't tell, I like Courtright Reservoir. Aside from great rock of many varieties, and being drop dead beautiful, it's at the end of the road. No passers through. No tour busses. People come up there to fish or climb. That's it. Best is September, maybe chilly at night (8,000 ft) but no mosquitos and perfect climbing temps in the daytime. Those sunny slabs and faces can get blistering hot in July.

Kristian Solemwrote:

Full on spray glory shot. Courtright isn't all slab either. Smiladon .12c, Tiger Wall...

In case you can't tell, I like Courtright Reservoir. Aside from great rock of many varieties, and being drop dead beautiful, it's at the end of the road. No passers through. No tour busses. People come up there to fish or climb. That's it. Best is September, maybe chilly at night (8,000 ft) but no mosquitos and perfect climbing temps in the daytime. Those sunny slabs and faces can get blistering hot in July.

I like Courtright too, please stop telling people to go there. Smiladon is insanely hard, respect. I cannot believe the pic of the guy soloing it in the guidebook.

Played music  until a bit after 10PM,  then  shot the shit for a bit.  Too late to make the whole drive to Isa's  farm so crashing  in a truck stop.  Did I mention that I love my  Sprinter  recently...

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Played music  until a bit after 10PM,  then  shot the shit for a bit.  Too late to make the whole drive to Isa's  farm so crashing  in a truck stop.  Did I mention that I love my  Sprinter  recently...

I was 20 minutes from you earlier today.  Hill, NH currently.

Just waking up in  Barre Barre Vt  heading to the NEK. Supposed to rain all weekend  so  likely no  climbing.  

Oldtradguywrote:

Yesterday, Erika and her husband Jim came over to climb with Jean and I at our local climbing area. We had a great time climbing with them and our friend Jeff. 

Both Erika and Jim are very strong climbers and I believe that they tried to kill an old man (me) on my  birthday. Just kidding.

Here are two lovely women chilling with Erika's dogs.

After climbing, we went back to our house and had a BBQ and pool party.

Happy B-day!

Is that the "phone booth"?  I remember that climb from 25 years ago :)

Tim. Too bad it's not dry.  We could have given you a climbing tour  with a little  notice and some cooperation from the weather. 

I went to college and it took me ~20 years to pay it all off.  I always assumed that shortly after I finished paying my loan(s) there would be some kind of student loan forgiveness bill :)

I was introduced to climbing by a college friend so that has to be worth something!

Mike Kwrote:

Happy B-day!

Is that the "phone booth"?  I remember that climb from 25 years ago :)

Mike

You are correct. It is the Phone Booth. It has gotten harder now due to a key hold that was broken off getting out of the booth.

25 years ago, we could climb the right side and then down climb it and do the left side and down climb that. Now I am happy to just make it into the booth. It is a bummer getting older.

John

Old lady Hwrote:

65 is coming up soon, in January!

I'm still bendier than I'd be with a new knee, I am told, so for as long as possible, it's still the same thing, never prescribed, no money in it, not covered or encouraged by big med or insurance:

Watch your weight, keep moving.

And I'm not shoving a walker around, yet. That's the decider for old people stuff. Not "will this promote fitness", but is it so bad they can't get around. Lori's health care (and knowledge) is simply far, far, from the norm for most people. Remember, I went out to the elderly and poor, when I worked for the library. All that lovely writing about "for all" when our country started? Was a pretty selective, big boys club "all". 

Even more so, now.

Naw, the earlier post(s) is me whinging, my way of flogging myself into thinking about maybe doing more than netflix and cheesecake for a fitness plan, lol!

This athlete thing really snuck up on me!

But?

It also means I've got pretty easy gains to be made, when it's so pitiful. The starting numbers improve way easier than the tweaking performance ones for real athletes. And, I truly am way more healthy, stronger and fitter, without even trying, than almost any peer group in the normal population. Females, of most any age, I am stronger. Most everyone my age, I am far healthier. "Average" American is pretty bad, though. 

Best, Helen

You said it perfectly, Helen.  We look pretty darn good compared to the norm, but the norm is a pretty low bar.  

I am feeling lucky to be diabetic, because my daily life is always a reality jolt, and consequences come fast and hard.  Dietary and exercise decisions really count at this age (for all of us).  That margarita and pizza may ruin a day of climbing, or more.   I try not to be a zealot, but I am doing everything I can to buy myself time... physical freedom and ability is no longer free.   

Some people are lucky in this respect, they can do whatever they want with no consequences.  I'm just not one of them.  Maybe you are not, either.  And that hourglass is draining....  so, I'm fully focused now.  

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Been watching Sumo Basho, those boys are big!  I'm seeing that weight doesn't necessarily give them the win--sometimes the smaller guy is more agile.  During Day 10 there was one match that seemed to be a stale mate.  No one was moving.  Did I understand that the referee was 'badgering them' to move?  

Funny... Tony was at his daughter's wedding rehearsal dinner last night... he texted me that 'there is a lot of tonage in the bridal party, like watching the entrance to the Sumo tournament.'  I told him I happened to be watching Sumo this afternoon, and some of those guys are over 400 pounds.  He texted back "This group will kill them."       

While it's funny... god that cracked me up... it's also sad.  I know how much Tony's daughter wanted to be petite and beautiful for her wedding... I know how hard it is to loose even a couple of pounds.  This modern living doesn't make it easy.  Walk into any market and you wouldn't be able to avoid all the pre-packaged, cheap junk food.  You'd have to educate yourself to shop only the outside aisles... and who does that?   

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I just have to jot this down.  I don't know if anyone remembers the John Lennon song "God".  The lyrics run through a long list of things John no longer believes in--all the icons and isms of his life.  In the end, he says "I just believe in me... Yoko and me."  Right now, I'm feeling much the same.  We've come through a terrible election cycle, divisive, everyone dug in.  We have local and global politics. Every kind of issue imaginable, and now vaccines and COVID.  Human rights.  The list of beliefs and isms is endless, if we allow it. 

For awhile, maybe forever, I feel like I'm detaching from it all.  The more time I spend in nature the more the rest doesn't matter. I feel my own attachments loosening... the labels (Right/Left, Catholic/Muslim/Atheist, etc. )are peeling away.  The good will exchanged here on this thread, and out in the greater climbing world is pretty amazing.  I don't care right now, what the politics, what the beliefs of anyone around me. The love, generosity of spirit, caring are all that is between us. I just look around at this magnificent desert, I just came down from the Sierra with every kind of green and soaring peak... right now I don't hold on to much else.  It feels wonderful.  

Lori Milaswrote:

While it's funny... god that cracked me up... it's also sad.  I know how much Tony's daughter wanted to be petite and beautiful for her wedding... I know how hard it is to loose even a couple of pounds.  This modern living doesn't make it easy.  Walk into any market and you wouldn't be able to avoid all the pre-packaged, cheap junk food.  You'd have to educate yourself to shop only the outside aisles... and who does that?

Prepackaged junk food has never been my problem. It's butterfat and sugar. I'm told that if I don't eat healthier, I'll become the world's thinnest type 2 diabetic. But I never met anything made with whole wheat flour that I like.   And now I learn that fruit smoothies, which I just added to my diet, contain too much fructose.   And then there's kale.    

Sam Cieplywrote:

I like Courtright too, please stop telling people to go there. Smiladon is insanely hard, respect. I cannot believe the pic of the guy soloing it in the guidebook.

Jumping back a bit here...

Last I heard Blaine Harmon quit climbing because he couldn't stop himself from doing things like soloing Smiladon, and he knew he was gonna die? Rumor from a reliable source. In any case that's one hell of a thing to solo. Anybody could biff it on that thing.

I used to see him a lot at the Needles. Never tied in with him, but he's a great guy and I wish I had.

I'll quit promoting Courtright. I just think Lori should make it a destination. And you have to figure that 99% of the climbers who frequent this site see the "over 50" heading on this thread and pass right on by. A few geezers up at Courtright won't cause much harm.