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List of Climbs to Establish New Grades
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Searched the forum but couldn't find this, is there a list somewhere of climbs that established new grades? Both globally and by continent? I think this would be something that would be REALLY cool for reference. I'll start the list and revise/restructure as new ones are posted and I do more research. Feel free to lock/delete this if there is already something like this. Grade - Climb; First Ascentionist; Year; Status (First ever, First in USA, etc...) 8B+/5.14a: Punks in the Gym; Wolfgang Gullich; 1985; World's first 8B+ To Bolt Or Not To Be; JB Tribout; 1986; First 5.14 in USA 8c: Wall Street; Wolfgang Gullich; 1987; World's first 8C 8c+: Hubble (Moon, later upgraded) 9a: Action Direct; Wolfgang Gullich; 1991; World's first 9a 9a+: Biographie; Chris Sharma; 2001; World's first 9a+ 9b: Jumbo Love; Chris Sharma; 2001; World's first 9b 9b+: Change; Adam Ondra; 2012; World's first 9b 9c: Silence; Adam Ondra; 2018; World’s first proposed 9c Bibliographie; Alex Megos; 2020; World's second proposed 9c |
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9c/5.15d - Silence Adam Ondra. Flatanger Norway. World’s first 5.15d |
Ryan Woodwrote: 9b - Jumbo Love (Sharma) 9b+ - Change (Ondra) 8c+ - Hubble (Moon, later upgraded) 8c - Wall Street (Gullich) 8b+ - Punks in the Gym (Gullich) |
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Blammo: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_…(sport_climbing) |
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I don't know how to internet, so for some reason that link got screwed up. Maybe... https://tinyurl.com/y66zw7b8 |
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From this forum: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107459854/list-of-first-american-routes-of-each-grade It's from the stanford.edu link which is now dead. I also added Megos' .15d in there Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade bold = first route of that grade or higher. Other well-known routes (or hardest in the US or Yosemite) are listed for reference. 6a (5.9, DDR VIIb) 1906 Teufelsturm Elbsandstein Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Huenig, Rudolf Fehrmann Note: another grade VIIb was done a few days earlier, but this is the more famous route. 6a+ (5.10a, DDR VIIc) 9/1910 Kreutzturm, Suedriss Elbsandstein Max Matthaeus 6a+ (5.10a), E1 5b 1914 Cave Crack Direct Laddow Rocks, Western Grit Ivar Berg 4A or 4B (5.8/5.9) 1914 Prestat Fontainbleau Jacque de Lepiney highball boulder problem 6b (5.10c) 1918 The Wilder Kopf, Westkante Elbsandstein Emanuel Strubich 6a+ (5.10a), E1 5b1930 Hollytree Wall, Javelin Blade Idwal Jack Longland 5c (5.8) 1933 Wiessner Corner Ragged (CT) Fritz Wiessner 6c+ (5.11c) 1934 south wall Torre Trieste, Dolomites Raffaele Carlesso, barefoot 6a (5.9) 1935 Vector Ragged (CT) Fritz Wiessner 6a (5.9, toprope)1936 PhD or Coffin Climb Cupid's Bower (Great Falls, VA) Marshall Wood 5c (5.8) 1937 Mechanic's Route Tahquitz Dick Jones, Glen Dawson 6b (5.10b/c/d) 1938 L'Angle Allain Cuvier Rempart, Fontainbleau Pierre Allain 6a+ (5.10, toprope) 1943 Leonard's Lunacy Carderock (MD) Donald Hubbard 6a+ (5.10, led) 1945 Leonard's Lunacy Carderock (MD) Herb Conn 6b (5.10c) 1949 Goodro's Crack Wasatch (UT) Harold Goodro 6a (5.9) 1952 Open Book Tahquitz Royal Robbins, Don Wilson 6a+ (5.10b) [rated 6b in guide] 1954 Aiguille de Balitiere, West Face including Fissure Brown Alps Joe Brown, Don Whillans V8 1957 John Gill 6a+ (5.10a) 1958 Repentence Cathedral Ledge (NH) John Turner, with point of aid lower on the pitch 7C (5.13d?, V9) 1959 Red Cross Overhang (original dynamic style) Jenny Lake, Tetons John Gill maybe too short to be considered (3-4 moves). 6b+ (5.10d) 1959 Bastille Direct Start Eldorado Ray Northcutt 6b+ (5.10d) 1959 Gill's Crack Devil's Lake (WI) John Gill 6b (5.10c) 1959 Split Pinnacle Lieback Yosemite Dave Rearick 6a+ (5.10a) 1960 The Blank Tahquitz Tom Frost, Bob Kamps 6a+ (5.10a) 1960 Rixon's East Chimney Yosemite Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick 6a+ (5.10a) 1961 Crack of Doom Yosemite Chuck Pratt, Mort Hempel 7a+ (5.12a/b, V5) 1961 Thimble, North Face Needles (SD) John Gill 30' high. 6c (5.11b) 1964 Frienstein, Konigshangel Elbsandstein Fritz Eske 6c (5.11) 1964 bouldering? Shawangunks (NY) Larsen, Williams 6c+ (5.11c) 1965 Crack of Doom City of Rocks (ID) Greg Lowe 6c (5.11) 1965 Son of Great Chimney Devil's Lake (WI) Pete Cleveland 6b+ (5.10d) 1965 Twilight Zone Yosemite Chuck Pratt 6c/6c+ (5.11b/c) 1966 Supremacy Crack Eldorado Pat Ament led clean after toprope in 1965, and led with rest on rope earlier in 1966 7b+ (5.12c) 1967 Macabre Roof Ogden, UT Greg Lowe 6c/7a (5.11d R) 1967 Superpin Needles Pete Cleveland 6c+ (5.11c) 1967 Foops Shawangunks John Stannard 6c (5.11) 1967 Slack Center Yosemite Pat Ament flake removed shortly after and is now 5.10d 7a (5.11d) 1968 Pilastro di Mezzo, Messner Slab Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites Reinhold Messner 7c (5.12d, toprope) 1969 Bagatelle Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland 7b (5.12b) ca 1970 English Hanging Gardens Big Rock (CA) John Gosling 7a (5.11d) 1970 Schwager, North Face Elbsandstein Bernd Arnold 7a (5.11d) 1971 Persistence Shawangunks John Stannard 7b+ (5.12c) 1973 Paisano Overhang Suicide Rock John Long 7b (5.12b) 1973 Kansas City Shawangunks John Bragg 6c+ (5.11c) 1973 Butterballs Yosemite Henry Barber 7b+ (5.12c) 1974 Supercrack Shawangunks Steve Wunsch 7a (5.11d) 1974 Overhang Overpass Yosemite Jim Donini 8B (5.14?, V13) 1975 Trice (AHR) Flagstaff Mtn. (CO) Jim Holloway maybe too short to be considered. 7c (5.12d) 1975 Psycho Roof Eldorado Steve Wunsch 7b+ (5.12c) 1975 City Limits Giant City (So. IL) Joseph Healy 7b (5.12b) 1975 Fish Crack Yosemite Henry Barber 7a+ (5.12a) 1975 Split Pinnacle, Left Side Squamish Chief Nick Taylor, Peter Peart 7a+ (5.12a) 1975 Hot Line Yosemite Ron Kauk, John Bachar 7c+ (5.13a) 1977 The Phoenix Yosemite Ray Jardine 7c+/8a (5.13a/b) 1977 Phlogiston Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland 7c+ (5.13a) 1978 Hangover Tahquitz John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, Mike Lechlinski 8a/8a+ (5.13b/c) 1979 Grand Illusion Sugarloaf (CA)Tony Yaniro 7c+ (5.13a) 1979 Hells Wall Bowderstone Crag, Lake District, UK Ron Fawcett 7c+ (5.13a) about 1979 Yasha Hai Vedauwoo Japanese climber 8a (5.13b) 1980 Cosmic Debris Yosemite Bill Price 8a (5.13b) 1981 Sphinx Crack South Platte (CO) Steve Hong 7c (5.12d) 1981 Chasin' the Trane Frankenjura John Bachar 8a+ (5.13c) 1984 Maniac Quoddy Head (ME) Dan Goodwin 8b (5.13d) 1984 Kanal im Rucken Altmuehltal Wolfgang Gullich 8b+/8c (5.14a/b) 1985 Punks in the Gym Mt. Arapiles Wolfgang Gullich 8b+ (5.14a) 1986 Ghetto Blaster Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich 8b+ (5.14a) 1986 La Rage de Vivre Buoux Antoine Le Menestral 8b+ (5.14a) 1986 Ultimo Movimento Totoga Manolo 8b+ (5.14a) 1986 To Bolt or Not to Be Smith Rock Jean Baptiste Tribout 8c (5.14b) 1987 Wallstreet Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich 8b/8b+ (5.13d/5.14a) 1987 Tour de Jour Yellow Bluff (AL) Jesse Guthrie 8c+ (5.14c) 1990 Hubble Raven Tor Ben Moon 9a (5.14d) 1991 Action Directe Frankenjura Wolfgang Gullich 8c+ (5.14c) 1992 Just Do It Smith Rock Jean Baptiste Tribout 8c (5.14b) 1994 Super Tweak Logan Canyon (UT) Boone Speed 9b (5.15b) 1995 Akira Charente Fred Rouhling (unrepeated) 8c+ (5.14c) 1996 Necessary Evil Virgin River Gorge Chris Sharma 8c (5.14b) 1996 Magic Line Yosemite Ron Kauk 9a+ (5.15a) 1998 Orujo Malaga Bernabe Fernandes (unrepeated; bolted-on holds removed) 9a+ (5.15a) 2001 Realization/Biographie Ceuse Chris Sharma 9b (5.15b) 2008 Jumbo Love Clark Mountain (CA/NV) Chris Sharma 8c+ (5.14c) 2008 Meltdown Yosemite Beth Rodden 9b+ (5.15c) 2012 Change Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 9A (5.15d?, V17) 2016 Burden of Dreams (The Lappnor Project) Finland Nalle Hukkataival 9c (5.15d) 2017 Silence Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 9c (5.15d) 2020 Bibliography Ceuse Alex Megos |
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first 13, 12, 11, 10? First 8000m peak? First 4000m peak? |
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I’ll format something with all that new info shortly. Epic. |
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V0 - Plumbers Crack. First ascent, unknown, because Instagram wasn’t around. But it was probably Fred Beckey. Worlds first V0 |
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Fuckin John Gill, climbing V8 back when everyone else is a gumby flailing on 5.10s. Must have been lonely. |
Nick Cwrote: Any reason to exclude Stettners Ledges in RMNP, CO as a 5.8 put up in 1927? |
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9a+ (5.15a), 1996, open air, schleierwasserfall, Alex Huber. Originally graded 9a, upgraded by Adam ondra |
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Toe Jam - first 5.6 |
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I like the format above of just ordering them by date. With disputes and different continents, etc. date is a good indisputable factor for organization. I wouldn't mind seeing some additional info added after the FA names. For example: "first climb rated as 5.9 immediately after the first ascent", "first 5.14a in North America". Or for early climbs in the early 1900s before rating systems were used "Rated as 5.11b in 1967". Doing all the continents would be challenging but having Europe and North America would be the main ones to differentiate. |
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I'd really like to see Ondra or someone else repeat Akira. |
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Hubble seems to be settling at 9a: all recent ascentionists have taken this (except Megos, who has the Gullich legacy to protect). Jerry Moffatt’s Liquid Ambar was climbed shortly before Hubble in 1990. It was originally given 8c - another product of conservative UK grading in the pre-00s - but gets 8c+ now. These are probably the firsts of their respective grades. Gloweringwrote: |
Gloweringwrote: I’m fine ordering them however once there is a general consensus. For the most part, dates and grades will be chronological, except for some glaring outliers like John Gill and what-not. Has Akira even had others attempt to repeat it? |
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Akira recently got its 2nd and 3rd ascent. Both guys called it 9a (.14d). |
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Great news about Akira. More details https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/fred-rouhlings-akira-worlds-first-proposed-5-15b-in-1995-finally-repeated-downgraded-to-5-14d/?cn-reloaded=1 It’s not surprising to me it was downgraded. Ratings are subjective. A new type of climb. A FA who doesn’t have much to compare it to. People are better at different types of climbing. People figure out new beta that may make it easier. Because rating is subjective and consensus can change over time IMO you would still list by first stating consensus grade, order by date and just explain additional factors How I would do the list is 9a (5.14d) 1995 Akira - Charente - Fred Rouhling (originally rated 9b 5.15b, sika an adhesive was used in establishing the climb) A few other changes I would make: 8b+ (5.14a) 1986 To Bolt or Not to Be - Smith Rock - Jean Baptiste Tribout (first 5.14a in North America) 9a+ (5.15a) 1996 Open Air - Schleierwasserfall - Alexander Huber (originally rated 9a (5.14d) upgraded later by Adam Ondra to fit the "new school" grading situation) 9a+ (5.15a) 2001 Realization/Biographie - Ceuse - Chris Sharma (reported as first 5.15a before reappraisal and upgrading of Open Air) |
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MP page for Ellingwood Chimney says the FA was in 1924 and that it was the first 5.8 in the country. If that can be confirmed, it would make it the first 5.8 in North America. Using Nick C's wonderful list above, only "4A or 4B (5.8/5.9) 1914 Prestat Fontainbleau Jacque de Lepiney highball boulder problem" would be earlier. |
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It has been my understanding that Ellingwood did climb that route now considered to be 5.8--but not rated at the time since I don't believe that Ellingwood used any rating system in those days--and it was very likely the hardest actual climbing route of it's day in North America ( not including climbs done by the Anasazi and other Indigenous peoples), but as the list above makes clear, significantly harder routes were being done much earlier in Europe--many more than shown on that list. Ellingwood had climbed in England before putting up his climbs in Colorado and Wyoming, so quite likely had climbed '5.8 equivalent' routes there--several of which had first been climbed as early as the late 1800s by O.G. Jones and others. |
