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Ellingwood Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 19
votes
Routes in The Bishop
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Bishop Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bishop Offwidth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bishop's Conundrum (aka Psycho Physics) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Craftwork T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ellingwood Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flounder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Handcrack - AKA The Right Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.4169, -105.2703 |
| FA: | Albert Ellingwood, 1924 |
| Page Views: | 8,165 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This climb has so much history! It was first climbed in 1924, which made it the hardest climb in the country at the time. As you climb this you are so inspired by how much of a climbing pioneer Ellingwood was.
This climb is located on the west face of Bishop Rock.
The rock is a little crumbly primarily in the first 50 feet of the climb.
P1 - Climb the chimney and use some slings around a chock stone to protect your moves. This climb is definitely one that you can't do during the nesting birds closures because after you make it around the chocked stone you have to climb over an eagle's nest. Make your way up the chimney to a pin that marks the start of the second pitch.
P2 - Follow the crack up to the right and get into a large cavern chimney. Climb the right side of the chimney. You will step out onto a large ledge. Climb the boulder that caps the large chimney you just moved out of and follow a wide crack to the top that is protected by a single very old spinning bolt. You could back this bolt up using a 4" or 5" cam. The anchors are on the right summit after the wide crack.
Rappel down to a large ledge. I decided to pass on using the anchors at this spot because they didn't look safe so I walked around to the left and used some solid anchors there. A double rope rappel gets you to the ground or there is an intermediate rappel station in the Bishop Chimney which is 80 feet to the ground. (the chimney to the left of Ellingwood Chimney).
Photos
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