New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #10

I have a Dream (plan)...

So today we're informed we need to work from home for 2 to 4 weeks if we can. While it's tempting to be paid for doing arguably less work than normal, I'm thinking of moving my leave (which I've booked for 2 weeks starting beginning of April) to to start this Saturday and to be extended to be 6 weeks till the end of April, and to go to The Grampians and camp at one spot for the entire 6 weeks. Very tempting. 

Pertinent...
https://youtu.be/DkLfb92Ly9U

Lori Milas wrote:

Day 2.  Working on an attitude adjustment.   

Spent the day on a rock called Jellystone. My intent was to have an easy warmup day... low key, get my climbing memory back.  It turned out to be 10b slabs and chimney/off width and crack.  I mean, how could we resist?

I did not understand this before but Joshua Tree is hard. I don’t have enough to compare it to so I assumed all placed are like this.  We talked about Red Rocks and Vegas today... seems I owe it to myself to at least go check it out before making final decisions. The world seems to be telling everyone at the moment—stop what you’re doing!  Introspect. Rethink!  

I don’t mind getting scraped up. I laugh A LOT while fucking up my climbs.  But I looked around today at the rugged terrain, the serious challenges of climbing here... I feel like a Superhero when I climb a 5.8.  

Guy perhaps you explained it right... you shouldn’t fall HERE.      Some good news, I have a volunteer to lead Loose Lady and adjacent routes for me. And I still want to at least visit the other Houser routes... see how it feels to try them out.  Memorable at a minimum.  I’m kinda smitten by those lines. 

Thought I’d share some rock porn with ya’ll.  Ryan asked me to take pictures of the “footholds “ and “handholds” for him.  There are no “holds”.  There is “trust your feet and COMMIT.”    

That looks lovely. I used to hate slab, but with the right shoes and attitude it can be really fun. You can use a surprising amount of core slab climbing too. 

Hi Carl...
I like your plan. (Did the wife not return yet?) I'm having this thought that all grievances, anger, hostility towards anyone needs to be put aside for now.  There's a few people I need to reach out to and just at least check in, let them know I care, I'm here.  Not suggesting this to you directly, Carl... but for myself.  It seems like truly a cataclysmic time when we cannot afford to separate ourselves in anger.  

Here we are, in Joshua Tree and the whole world seems to be shut down.  There may be a 'shelter in place' order this week which could last for months.  I don't know if it's a good time to not have a shelter--I may decide to pull my house off the market for now.  A friend is planning to drive here on Saturday and climb together for 4 days.  She doesn't know if gas stations will be open... or any other services if she needs them along the way.  We may wind up stuck here for some time.  

But it does seem like we climbers are especially equipped for this.  We don't mind a little hardship.  We're friendly, and we're resourceful.  We never wanted much money or material goods anyway... so this isn't as hard on us as some others.  We are pretty strong, and hardy.  As I stood out in the desert yesterday and looked around I thought 'social distancing' is pretty natural to most of us.     Please everyone... stay safe.
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I saw my first chuckawalla yesterday!  The perfect Power Animal for mastering chimneys.  

So. If it's not too rude, can we talk about the 'layback'?  This route was only about 30 feet, but it felt like a mile.  It was hand over hand, on a very narrow slab... gripping a tiny ledge on the left side of the rock.  The whole way I was yelling "They don't have one of these in our gym!"     Also...I get tunnel vision when climbing hard.  At critical points, if I had only looked up and seen that there were features on the face that could have been used for the next move.   Does anyone else have a hard time remembering to look around when it gets hard?

As we were trying to work out the beta on this route, the consensus was 'At the halfway mark there's nothing for feet. This will be all friction.'  We don't have any of those in the gym either.  

I truly love this rock.    What I don't understand is how I could be working out hard in the gym consistently for several years, and still be severely sore and challenged on the most basic climbing here.  
No time like the present to rebuild my own musculature to be able to handle these rocks.  (Saw a whole 4 people here yesterday in the park.  Not a woman in sight.)

Hi Lori. The wife is back. But distancing myself from her, as well as virus carrying humans might be a good idea. You're right, climbers don't mind hardship, even the occasional bin (dumpster) dive. Camp Sandy is quite remote really, and I'm thinking there will be very few International visitors around.
Laybacking is all about opposing forces, gotta keep the tension going; feet pressing, straight arms pulling, and keep the feet high, otherwise they'll slip out from under ya.

Carl Schneider wrote: Pertinent...
https://youtu.be/DkLfb92Ly9U

That's a good one Carl, thanks. He seems to suggest just climbing a little higher and falling a little more each time. Worth a try anyway.

I would like to draw a little focus on falling vs catches as it relates to angle.  It's just a cautionary thing.  You have been posting situations of vertical 90 degree and negative angle (overhung) routes and good catching tactics.  I don't really think that will work as well on positive angle climbs like I do.  Back bone above belly button.  So, for the very experienced climbers here, would you ever consider trying to do a "soft" catch on low (positive) angle climbs?

Dallas R wrote: I would like to draw a little focus on falling vs catches as it relates to angle.  It's just a cautionary thing.  You have been posting situations of vertical 90 degree and negative angle (overhung) routes and good catching tactics.  I don't really think that will work as well on positive angle climbs like I do.  Back bone above belly button.  So, for the very experienced climbers here, would you ever consider trying to do a "soft" catch on low (positive) angle climbs?

On less than vertical climbs, the shorter the fall the better.  Not only should you likely not do a soft catch, but as Guy mentioned, if you can reel in rope during the fall, even better.

Dallas R wrote: I would like to draw a little focus on falling vs catches as it relates to angle.  It's just a cautionary thing.  You have been posting situations of vertical 90 degree and negative angle (overhung) routes and good catching tactics.  I don't really think that will work as well on positive angle climbs like I do.  Back bone above belly button.  So, for the very experienced climbers here, would you ever consider trying to do a "soft" catch on low (positive) angle climbs?

Dallas.... No way, low angle stuff requires a “extra hard catch” Reeling in as much slack as possible just as soon as you know, for certain, your leader is falling. Thinking about Yosemite granite here. At Suicide there is a climb named “ReBolting Development”. 5.10D IIRC clipping the 3rd bolt is a no fall zone, getting onto the little dish/bump that was the drilling stance is about 10a. If you blow it and your belayer doesn’t do anything you will deck out, from about 70 feet up! 

This type of belay expertise was quite common on what is now called “Trad”. Other, mostly dead now, skills needed were “bracing yourself” so you were in a strong stance to catch a fall. Standing in a good spot to help keep the pro in place at the beginning of a climb looks to be a lost art. 
Q for you because I know that you’re on the road. Right now I’m waiting to pick up my friend at SF Intl, we are then going to Sears Point Raceway to fetch two car haulers and drive them to Edmonton Canada (the race has been canceled). You can still get fuel on the interstate? We camp out in one of the haulers. 

Dallas R wrote:  So, for the very experienced climbers here, would you ever consider trying to do a "soft" catch on low (positive) angle climbs?

Only if I were belaying someone I hate. 

Senor Arroz wrote:

Only if I were belaying someone I hate. 

LOL!

Dallas R wrote: I would like to draw a little focus on falling vs catches as it relates to angle.  It's just a cautionary thing.  You have been posting situations of vertical 90 degree and negative angle (overhung) routes and good catching tactics.  I don't really think that will work as well on positive angle climbs like I do.  Back bone above belly button.  So, for the very experienced climbers here, would you ever consider trying to do a "soft" catch on low (positive) angle climbs?

Right. Personally, I want the catch to be as fast as possible on low angle slab or ledgy (positive angle) routes, and that's what Bill and I are used to doing (although we haven't fallen a whole lot).

I asked my partner to define 'low angle' the other day and he took a long pause... didn't have a definition.  What do you say?
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Things pretty weird here.  Restaurants are closed.  I waited in a long line in 40 degree weather to get into the market upon opening and there were limits on everything.  Shelves half empty.  They are allowing seniors in first... however, I'm pretty sure that does not apply to able-bodied folks (like me).   Cliffhangers has canceled all its bookings for the foreseeable future.  Crossroads is closed. I have no idea whether the local hospital has a ventilator, if needed, but my focus is on not needing one.   

Heading into Day 3... I'm crippled.  It's that slab!  My calves are in deep pain from the long day on slab, and I literally cannot walk.  I'm hoping to be able to hobble in a couple of hours... and maybe the stoke will allow a little more mobility.    So much for gym training... never once did we work on anything like a slab.    

And yet, joy is returning.  I woke up with a smile on my face and thought "Whoa! I haven't felt that in a long time!"  So I can cross off my list the theory that I only love being here because it is 'away' from home,  the 'vacation' theory.  Because this  is enormous stress.  There is no good place to be right now.  

Tony has the gout again, and has been in bed since we arrived.  He keeps asking me if I've eaten dinner yet.  He has no idea what time it is... pretty loaded up on meds.      

What's everyone climbing today???  

Climbing nowhere. Gyms are closed. Road trip out of the question. Teaching online. Getting in great shape though. Working the hangboard hard. Be back maybe by end of summer I think. But I have resigned myself to not climbing for months.

Lori Milas wrote: I asked my partner to define 'low angle' the other day and he took a long pause... didn't have a definition.  What do you say?
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What's everyone climbing today???  

Anything less than vertical.

 Debating the responsibility of going climbing. University is closed, tomorrow will be snow, today is nice. Might go to some obscure place far away with a long approach, will bail if others are there. Trying to do the right thing.

All older adults are high risk, especially if there are other health conditions (ie; diabetes), so please take care of yourself Lori. 

ErikaNW wrote:

Anything less than vertical.

 Debating the responsibility of going climbing. University is closed, tomorrow will be snow, today is nice. Might go to some obscure place far away with a long approach, will bail if others are there. Trying to do the right thing.

All older adults are high risk, especially if there are other health conditions (ie; diabetes), so please take care of yourself Lori. 

Thank you, Erica.  I was just thinking that outside of a very short time in the grocery store--where I covered everything in hand sanitizer, I haven't had contact with a soul in 10 days.  Here in Josh, the park is about empty.  I saw a vague figure about a quarter mile away on Monday... 

Not saying it couldn't happen.  

Just an aside... it was hard watching all the carts lined up ahead of me in Stater Bros.. loaded with candy, pop, chips, pancake mix, cereal etc.  There may be a lesson we all learn from this, and that is how to begin to feed ourselves so we are less vulnerable to everything that comes along.  I mean, I haven't heard a word on this subject yet.  And I get that in many cases, the cheapest food is what can be afforded.  It took years for me to slowly change my thinking... and my purchasing.  Most of what I looked for yesterday,  fresh vegetables, fruits, organic stuff... whole grains... was still on the shelves.  Lots of lessons going on...    and I am trusting it's for our collective betterment.  

I do think some of the buying patterns are regional. Living in a very health conscious area, I’ve had a hard time finding produce in my stores. Including frozen vegetables.  Non meat options (tofu, etc) all gone. It’s interesting. I’ll be looking forward to putting my garden in. Stay well everyone.

edit: give Tony our best, gout is miserable. Hope he feels better soon.

Guy Keesee wrote:

 You can still get fuel on the interstate? 

I have not seen fuel as an issue.  With the call to stop non-essential travel and the talk of topping off the national fuel reserve and the falling prices it appears we will have fuel for a while. 

On top of everything else, we woke up to an earthquake this morning. For Californians, 5.7 is probably no big deal, but it sure got our attention! Preparing for locusts next...

Elisa R wrote: For Californians, 5.7 is probably no big deal, but it sure got our attention! 

5.7 is a very decent sized shake!  Even a 5.6 if you're close to the epicenter gives a pretty strong jolt.  I've been living in CA for 40 years and have felt a lot of them, and for some reason, whenever I feel one, I say "Ride 'em, Cowboy".  I don't find them frightening.  They are over so quickly!  Kind of like an unexpected lead fall.  The real issue, like a fall, is not the moment, but the aftermath.