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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #10

Original Post
Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

Welcome to the Neighborhood.   

I thought a lot about whether to start this new thread... but all the stories, the sage wisdom, the friendships that have emerged here, it's hard to let that go.  I hope we make some new friends here, as well...

Most recently people were posting more videos of both indoor and outdoor climbing which opened up the conversation to advice and specific coaching, which was great.  I hope we continue to share whatever is going on, whatever is important in our lives as climbers.  I love the videos and pics.   

Honestly... at this moment I'm in a pit.  Shutting down my home, looking for a house in Joshua Tree... my climbing stoke is g.o.n.e.  It's been weeks since I've been out, seen much nature... all I've done is sit in the house and breathe paint fumes.  (House being sold... the whole thing had to be painted)  So, that's where I start this thread tbo.   Hopefully, some others will come to the rescue and report in on the great things happening to them, great climbing.  Or not.  Keeping it real.  I know Dwain goes for surgery tomorrow.  Maybe we can send some healing vibes his way.  I expect to be out climbing with him soon, so I need him to have a successful surgery.        

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,275

Hey, howdy back at ya!

Dwain, add me to the "hope it's goes well, recovery is smooth and you don't go too nuts in the meantime" list of well wishers!

I will try to get something from the new gym, or outside, but in the meantime, here's me working one at the old gym. Two years ago, or more!

A mock lead, on the autobelay. I did get all of it worked out (including ways to use the walls where I couldn't reach). Lots and lots of dithering on it!

https://youtu.be/k8naKJNOS88

Lori, it will all be strange, for awhile, but you know that. A lot of changes for you, planned, and.....not. Remember to breathe!

Best, Helen

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

Helen... I laugh every time I think of a special person here, who shall remain nameless, who was MISERABLE with our sharing.  If it wasn't about a route, or a shoe make, or a cam or nut... he didn't want to hear about it.  It delighted me to make him so irate.   and I think he eventually said "to hell with all of you".  

For those who have not posted much, and those who have, next time you are climbing stick your phone in a shoe or on a tripod, aim it at your route (indoors or out), and hit 'video'.  Show us what you got.  

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 312

Lori.... thanks for the re- fire. Funny you mention RePainting. Lots of my neighbors are selling and moving out- different states, moving up, paring down... life you know. Someday soon I’ll be doing the same. One thing I have noticed is that the “condition” doesn’t make that much difference in the asking price or selling price. One of my neighbors, a handy fellow- finish carpenter by trade. Worked his ass off, new floors, kitchen, granite, bathrooms- everything. His place sold in two days! The new owner never moved in and within a week she had the entire place gutted! (I admit to taking a cool 4 bulb light fixture that fits the downstairs bathroom- shameless I know) When my time comes to sell, I’m going to just gut the place and adjust the $$$$.
Anyway good luck with the move! Change is always hard especially when ya get really rooted in.
For me the climbing has been dismal, my back isn’t bad enough for surgery but bad enough to keep me from walking some days. Such is life.
Anyway I’m sure you will recover your stoke the first day you wake up as a “Josh Local”.
AND sending Cosmic the healing vibe! He has been tied to the ground for far to long. We have a “Climbing Date” that’s been on hold for much to long!

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Guy Keesee wrote: 
For me the climbing has been dismal, my back isn’t bad enough for surgery but bad enough to keep me from walking some days. Such is life.

JFK's Secret Doctor: The Remarkable Life of Medical Pioneer and Legendary Rock Climber Hans Kraus: Maybe you have read it, but if not a good read for any climber and maybe more important for anyone with back problems. Kraus had a different approach and lots of fans for the work he did $ 8.50 with shipping used on amazon

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 136
Lori Milas wrote: Welcome to the Neighborhood.   

I thought a lot about whether to start this new thread... but all the stories, the sage wisdom, the friendships that have emerged here, it's hard to let that go.  I hope we make some new friends here, as well...

Most recently people were posting more videos of both indoor and outdoor climbing which opened up the conversation to advice and specific coaching, which was great.  I hope we continue to share whatever is going on, whatever is important in our lives as climbers.  I love the videos and pics.  

Honestly... at this moment I'm in a pit.  Shutting down my home, looking for a house in Joshua Tree... my climbing stoke is g.o.n.e.  It's been weeks since I've been out, seen much nature... all I've done is sit in the house and breathe paint fumes.  (House being sold... the whole thing had to be painted)  So, that's where I start this thread tbo.   Hopefully, some others will come to the rescue and report in on the great things happening to them, great climbing.  Or not.  Keeping it real.  I know Dwain goes for surgery tomorrow.  Maybe we can send some healing vibes his way.  I expect to be out climbing with him soon, so I need him to have a successful surgery.    
BUMP for Climbers over 50 #10!!!
I wish the Admins would just sticky this thread. They say if there is anything New to say just start a new thread.
WHY???????
They should let this one go on rather than stop it at a 1000 posts.
Climbers over 50 always have something to say.

And, Thank You for all the well wishes for tomorrows surgery.
I know I'm going to be out of all the pain, But I sure hope this surgery fixes the partially numb toes and balls of the feet
and there has been no permanent nerve damage that caused the numbness so I can get back to climbing again.

It's been 4 years now since I last climbed  and has majorly depressed me.

    


wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: BUMP for Climbers over 50 #10!!!
I wish the Admins would just sticky this thread. They say if there is anything New to say just start a new thread.
WHY???????
They should let this one go on rather than stop it at a 1000 posts.
Climbers over 50 always has something to say.

And, Thank You for all the well wishes for tomorrows surgery.
I know I'm going to be out of all the pain, But I sure hope this surgery fixes the partially numb toes and balls of the feet
and there has been no permanent nerve damage that caused the numbness so I can get back to climbing again.

It's been 4 years now since I last climbed  and has majorly depressed me.


Four years is a long time. Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,275

Dwain, I can't even imagine....

I'm not moving out, just long, long, overdue! My house is being reclaimed into a home again.

Painting!

That's a lot of hope for the future sitting there!

Best, Helen

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

I was wondering if we were going to get a new one, glad we did...
Did I mention I got a new puppy?

Elisa R · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Yay, thanks for starting #10! Without the "Over 50" thread, I wouldn't spend much time on MP.

Carl, that puppy is so cute! What's her/his name?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Is that a dingo? :)

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

The puppy is Lois, he's a papillon.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 136
Carl Schneider wrote: The puppy is Lois, he's a papillon.
Looks more like a dog than a butterfly!
A Boy named, Sue, and a BOY Dog named, LOIS?????


Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 136
Guy Keesee wrote: 
AND sending Cosmic the healing vibe! He has been tied to the ground for far to long. We have a “Climbing Date” that’s been on hold for much to long!
I'll make sure to wear my BEST Dress, Guy!



Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

what happened to #9?

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Nick Goldsmith wrote: what happened to #9?

That was a Beatles song.   

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

I had an interesting day at the gym today. In these strength/endurance cycles apparently there comes a limit when the body just says no.  Right now my whole being says no, despite my honest intentions.  Ryan could diagnose it before me. We’re done with strength for awhile and on to endurance and technique.

So his mantra lately is “it’s your feet, Lori.”  He swears if I will trust my feet the rest will follow. So he’s pulling apart our videos and stopping the action along the route to show me how I miss the moves.  I can see that I would prefer sidewalk to those minuscule footholds... but the setters clearly want you to take the chance.  Choosing the larger foothold fails to set the climber up for the following crux moves. 

His plan is to create some drills in the bouldering room that utilize only small footholds and require pivoting and matching feet.  For a few weeks it’s going to be drills and balance.  

Wrong way


Right way (and so it went the whole afternoon)

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

seriously. what happened to the other thread?

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Nick Goldsmith wrote: seriously. what happened to the other thread?

It’s there. Administratively closed after 1000 posts. 

New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9 in General Forum. 
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Went pretty big yesterday.  Did the right side of the Last Gentleman which is dramatically harder than the usual left variation. I led a long pitch that started with thin unprotectable snice that gradually steepened  until it was full on vertical. The my strong young partner Pete  did a great lead of the brutal 2nd pitch

 i led a casual grade 4 pitch with ridiculous exposure. looking down at Pete
 then Pete hiked to pillars to the top
pleasantly worked... 
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 315

^^^ Great photos Nick!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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