New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #8

The mighty OLH.

ErikaNW wrote: The mighty OLH.l

Helen,

I believe the joy on your face says it all. It’s been so fun seeing the pictures and reading the stories, knowing what it means to you.! I feel like I’m living it in spirit with you sister! (I am a little jealous with everyone meeting and climbing together but maybe we’ll make it extra special when we also get together.)  just beautiful!   

Thanks, Erika! It was great fun climbing with you again today. OLH is mighty for sure....mighty tired, lol!

Best, Helen

I’m having coffee at 5 a.m. outside, listening to the quiet... and thought I’d write about my day on Dairy Queen. It took a lot of planning and saving to make this trip to Joshua Tree.  Maybe it was Dallas’ post, I’m having a lot of second thoughts too.

I guess Nelson decided to throw me into the deep end and see whether I sink or swim. (Totally my desire) So... I loaded up my backpack, extra food and water, shoes and rack, and we set out for the wall. Longish walk to some serious scrambling up and over boulders, hopped over a rattlesnake out sunning, and finally got to the base.  There I had a dangerous low blood sugar so I reviewed with Nelson all the emergency responses including glucagon injection if needed. Diabetes adds an interesting layer of challenge to climbing and fear being away from any rescue.

There’s a vertical 5.7 crack called Mr. Misty Kiss-about 70 feet tall. Nelson suggested I take my rack and place all the pro possible to the top (on a loose top rope). So, as you all seem to have experience with—this was brand new to me. Any previous ground practice was irrelevant to the hand eye coordination and endurance required here. Hanging on with hand jams and finger locks while retrieving the right sized cam or nut and then placing it—this went slow and tiring! I learned how to sling a cam and rest on it...

Also, there was the barn door thing trying to hang in that left-leaning crack while placing pro. 

It was so hard I got a fit of giggles.

Later Nelson went up, examined placements and commented. He was real positive and supportive on this.

When it was time to head back we actually rappelled down some of those boulders. Walking back at one point Nelson said “Lori turn around!”  I looked back to see this soaring spire of a rock towering above and it just caught me off guard. Whoa! Shit! “Is that what we just climbed?”

I have seen exactly one woman this week. Half my age. I think it’s legit to stop and ask if this is “age-appropriate”, if it’s getting silly... possibly dangerous. It’s sure not the nice, structured day out on easy rock where everything has been taken care of by someone else. And I’m guessing this is Step One towards more strenuous climbing/leading.  Will my fitness and strength catch up over time so that such climbs are more fun?  

(Meanwhile, back at the ranch, “rodents” apparently chewed through the wiring under my car and caused $2800 in damage. Car in shop 45 miles away, auto insurance claim in the works.  We have rats here?   ) 

Lori Milas wrote: I think it’s legit to stop and ask if this is “age-appropriate”

Some of us didn't get the memo.

rgold - the man can stem! - on "Te Dum" (5.7), yesterday. Bill is belaying.

rgold turning the corner on P2 of "Te Dum".

Just point the man at some rock and up he goes   He led us up both Te Dum and Gelsa, two fun routes we'd never climbed before. Everything was perfect - crisp fall day, brilliant blue sky, awe-inspiring leader!

Rich, thanks so much for the spectacular day!!

Lori? I'm about to write, gently I hope, one of the harsher posts on this lovely thread.

No, climbing isn't age dependent. It is ​maturity dependent. That is, unless someone has realized just how dangerous it truly is? You are a no go as a partner, and only should be in those "guided" situations.

You can kill people. Instantly. Easily.

Lose focus, make a small mistake, be human? There is a high likelihood you, or someone you care about, will become splat. I'm truly glad you are pondering this over that 5a.m. coffee! This means you are now "maturing". Welcome to "real" climbing, no matter if you top rope forever or climb solo (that's just style), this is the real deal. Understanding the reality, even moment to moment, as you hold someone's life in your hands.

All the other "dangerous" things we do, like drive cars, still rarely produce consequences if you mess up, or even if you have an accident. Not climbing. Splat is a reality, sadly, and every choice we make weighs that possibility.

It's also why the friendships are deep and intimate, in a way no other relationship can be.

So. Keep climbing, expect these very rich friendships, and choose, carefully, how you ​want to climb, and take care of these dear people.

And age?

Age can kiss my ass. I'm ice climbing at Bozeman in December!!!  ;-)

Sincerely, OLD Lady H

dragons wrote:

Some of us didn't get the memo.

rgold - the man can stem! - on "Te Dum" (5.7+), yesterday. Bill is belaying.

rgold turning the corner on P2 of "Te Dum".

Just point the man at some rock and up he goes   He led us up both Te Dum and Gelsa, two fun routes we'd never climbed before. Everything was perfect - crisp fall day, brilliant blue sky, awe-inspiring leader!

Rich, thanks so much for the spectacular day!!

Dang! Just.....dang. :-D

Old lady H wrote: Lori? I'm about to write, gently I hope, one of the harsher posts on this lovely thread.

No, climbing isn't age dependent. It is maturity dependent. That is, unless someone has realized just how dangerous it truly is? You are a no go as a partner, and only should be in those "guided" situations.

You can kill people. Instantly. Easily.

Lose focus, make a small mistake, be human? There is a high likelihood you, or someone you care about, will become splat. I'm truly glad you are pondering this over that 5a.m. coffee! This means you are now "maturing". Welcome to "real" climbing, no matter if you top rope forever or climb solo (that's just style), this is the real deal. Understanding the reality, even moment to moment, as you hold someone's life in your hands.

All the other "dangerous" things we do, like drive cars, still rarely produce consequences if you mess up, or even if you have an accident. Not climbing. Splat is a reality, sadly, and every choice we make weighs that possibility.

It's also why the friendships are deep and intimate, in a way no other relationship can be.

So. Keep climbing, expect these very rich friendships, and choose, carefully, how you want to climb, and take care of these dear people.

And age?

Age can kiss my ass. I'm ice climbing at Bozeman in December!!!  ;-)

Sincerely, OLD Lady H

I love you Helen!   

I have been accused of hand-wringing and too much angst. I get it.!  But this forum has been a place to talk this all out, with like-minded climbers and figure out what’s what.  
My friends and guides are mostly 40 something males with years of climbing and instruction under the belt. I just hope they’re good at grasping my pace, reflexes and skill.   
On the upside... my supposed torn rotator cuff seems to have healed with all that one-armed hanging off cracks and some good Ayurvedic salve called SuperSport. 
Keep climbing, sister!  ICE CLIMBING? Really??? 

Lori Milas wrote:

I love you Helen!   

I have been accused of hand-wringing and too much angst. I get it.!  But this forum has been a place to talk this all out, with like-minded climbers and figure out what’s what.  
My friends and guides are mostly 40 something males with years of climbing and instruction under the belt. I just hope they’re good at grasping my pace, reflexes and skill.   
On the upside... my supposed torn rotator cuff seems to have healed with all that one-armed hanging off cracks and some good Ayurvedic salve called SuperSport. 
Keep climbing, sister!  ICE CLIMBING? Really??? 

Yes, ice. All the hazards of rock, plus sharp, pointy things....and screaming barfies. Who could resist?

Best, Helen

Lori Milas wrote: There’s a vertical 5.7 crack called Mr. Misty Kiss-about 70 feet tall. Nelson suggested I take my rack and place all the pro possible to the top (on a loose top rope). So, as you all seem to have experience with—this was brand new to me. Any previous ground practice was irrelevant to the hand eye coordination and endurance required here. Hanging on with hand jams and finger locks while retrieving the right sized cam or nut and then placing it—this went slow and tiring! I learned how to sling a cam and rest on it...

If it makes you feel any better, my recollection is that route is a little steeper and more physical than the "average" Joshua Tree 5.7 (if there is such a thing).  But the gear is bomber, so that's a good thing.  

If you are still there, I did a route in that grade range out on Gilligan's Island last year that I really liked.  Called As the wind blows, 5.7+.  There are anchors at the top to you could do the tope rope/gear placement thing there.  I thought the gear available on that was excellent and it took a nice range from big to tiny.  As a bonus, the anchors also allow one to TR a nice Bob Gaines 5.9 face route "Through the looking Glass", and a 10a face route called Gun for the Sun, which if you liked Loose Lady, you might like as well.

Lori Milas wrote: I’m having coffee at 5 a.m. outside, listening to the quiet... and thought I’d write about my day on Dairy Queen. It took a lot of planning and saving to make this trip to Joshua Tree.  Maybe it was Dallas’ post, I’m having a lot of second thoughts too.

There’s a vertical 5.7 crack called Mr. Misty Kiss-about 70 feet tall. Nelson suggested I take my rack and place all the pro possible to the top (on a loose top rope). So, as you all seem to have experience with—this was brand new to me. Any previous ground practice was irrelevant to the hand eye coordination and endurance required here. Hanging on with hand jams and finger locks while retrieving the right sized cam or nut and then placing it—this went slow and tiring! I learned how to sling a cam and rest on it...

Also, there was the barn door thing trying to hang in that left-leaning crack while placing pro.

Leaning cracks are harder, for sure. But re. the complications of selecting gear while hanging: It gets a lot easier with experience eyeballing placements. On a hand crack like that you should be able to head up with a bunch of .75, #1 and #2 cams and just fire away. Did you also do Frosty Cone? That one should have been easier for you. 

Lori Milas wrote:

I love you Helen!   

I have been accused of hand-wringing and too much angst. I get it.!  But this forum has been a place to talk this all out, with like-minded climbers and figure out what’s what.  
My friends and guides are mostly 40 something males with years of climbing and instruction under the belt. I just hope they’re good at grasping my pace, reflexes and skill.   
On the upside... my supposed torn rotator cuff seems to have healed with all that one-armed hanging off cracks and some good Ayurvedic salve called SuperSport. 
Keep climbing, sister!  ICE CLIMBING? Really??? 

I doubt it. A salve cannot heal structural damage.  Be careful. Even if the RC is not "torn",  you clearly have some "damage" in the shoulder joint.  It's just that climbing 1 or 2, 70 foot 5.7 trad routes puts waaaay less stress on the shoulder than a a session of 5.10-5.11 overhanging gym routes. That's why easy trad is so fun though !  You can still do it and baby your minor injuries.  BTW, there are several other fun trad routes on the Dairy Queen Wall worth doing and there is a fairly easy walk off/TR approach at the far right end as you face the cliff.

Señor Arroz wrote:

Leaning cracks are harder, for sure. But re. the complications of selecting gear while hanging: It gets a lot easier with experience eyeballing placements. On a hand crack like that you should be able to head up with a bunch of .75, #1 and #2 cams and just fire away. Did you also do Frosty Cone? That one should have been easier for you. 

I gotta assume/hope it gets a lot easier with practice and thank you for saying that. 

Ordinarily I can climb all day but after a few preliminary routes and then this crack I was DONE.    Felt like my kids when they needed a nap right now.
But one thing that hasn’t changed... I don’t wanna go home. I don’t want to come in at night here. Tony thinks I need a shower... I think a little dirt and sagebrush never hurt anyone.  Nature. It’s intoxicating.   

Lori, regarding your shoulder issues, suggest considering ART therapy.  Done by chiropractors who are certified in that technique for shoulders.  I've use two who help keep me climbing.  Also look at the American Orthopedic Assn.  website for their recommendations for rotator cuff exercises.  4 years ago I couldn't do one pull up, now I can do them with 20lbs. added weight  I continue to do rotator cuff stabilization exercises 4 or 5 times a week.  There's no climbing gym where I live, but I'm in the weight gym 3 or 4 times a week, and hangboard on the other days.  

I'm a 70 something, addicted to climbing, and trying to get beyond .10b.  In the coming year I have trips planned to Yosemite, Mexico, Red Rock, City of Rocks and hopefully a return to Kalymnos and perhaps a return to Cirque of the Towers or some other big alpine climb.   I've got a new Bosch hammer drill and plan to start putting up new routes on Slickrock (McCall) next summer.

My biggest problem is finding partners, I've lost 2 to injuries in the past couple of years.  In May in Kalymnos I was super lucky hooking up with David from Wales, we had 2 weeks of great climbing.  I'd appreciate hearing from anyone on this thread who is also looking for trip partners.

Did a four pitch grade 13 (Chameleon Connection) led the first and third. Got scared, gear was spaced. Delicate, balancy slab. 

Woke up  crippled on Friday  morning.  All I did  was  drive and sleep..  barely  got up 2 pitches  on  Saturday.  Did a via  feratta  Sunday.  Shoulder  hurts so  much  I can  barely  brush my teeth... 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: Woke up  crippled on Friday  morning.  All I did  was  drive and sleep..  barely  got up 2 pitches  on  Saturday.  Did a via  feratta  Sunday.  Shoulder  hurts so  much  I can  barely  brush my teeth... 

This seems to be the plight of climbers!   Probably means you did something right. In a previous thread some seasoned climbers said when this happens they wake up, toss back a couple of Advil, finish last night’s scotch and head on out for more climbing. 

Giving thought to Loose Lady again since I now have an offer from a friend who would lead it. The darned thing is in full sun.  Bob Gaines insisted that the best temperature for climbing slab is 48 degrees.  I think he’s right because this week I was climbing some full sun routes on Echo Rock and just slipped and slid all the way.  
I climbed Loose Lady In a record 55 minutes in perfect 50 degree weather.    I’d hate to add time to my lousy record because I’m on a 90 degree face. Maybe to check out some alternate rocks this week and hold the Lady for winter.   

PS. This is one of those rocks that I just stare at in astonishment and say “Who does this? How is this even possible?”  And yet we manage to make it happen.   

Eyeing that traverse. STILL don’t know if that nut would have held. Anyone???

The 10c (unnamed) on Echo. Very fun!  It was a lot more vertical than this. 

Me on Mr. Misty... trying to deal with climbing and cams. Walking AND chewing gum.   

Lori Milas · 3 hours ago · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190Giving thought to Loose Lady again since I now have an offer from a friend who would lead it. The darned thing is in full sun.  Bob Gaines insisted that the best temperature for climbing slab is 48 degrees.  I think he’s right because this week I was climbing some full sun routes on Echo Rock and just slipped and slid all the way.  
I climbed Loose Lady In a record 55 minutes in perfect 50 degree weather.    I’d hate to add time to my lousy record because I’m on a 90 degree face. Maybe to check out some alternate rocks this week and hold the Lady for winter.  

PS. This is one of those rocks that I just stare at in astonishment and say “Who does this? How is this even possible?”  And yet we manage to make it happen. 

Lori the best tip I got was from Dan Osmon for this problem.  One day I was watching him do some bouldering at the Leap.   I noticed he was chalking up his shoes.   I was very surprised by this. When he was done with his route I asked him about it.  He smiled and said it helped his feet hookup better on the hot greasy rock.  The following week we went to the Valley and my partner lead up one of the 5.9 direct starts by After 7 it was very greasy to say the least. Both my partners had a hard time with their feet hooking up.  They we both solid 5.10 -  5.11 climbers.  I chalked up my feet and basically just walked right up it.  My partner Mark was like what the hell did you do.  "You just waltzed right up it like it was nothing?"  I  told him about the tip I got from Dano the week before needless to say we all chalk up our shoes now when the rock gets hot and greasy.

RIP Dano