1st trek to Zion, recommendations

Title. We lead Gunks 5.8 comfortably, looking for route suggestions in the 5.5-5.8(comparable) range. Have 3 days there Fri, Sat, Sun.

In the very least, will there be more info to be found once I get there? Understand information is privileged.

Looking at an epic for Cowboy ridge. I gather it is 1 pitch 5 th class with mostly 4th and 3rd exposed that may or may not be protectable?

Your best bet for info out there will be from a guidebook or here on MP. Zion’s a vast park and there’s not really a “climber hangout” or center, unless you’re a local which is few & far between.

IMHO gunks grades are stiffer but it’s a different style & rock, Zion is more crack oriented, or runout slab, or choss wrangling, all on softer rock.

Cowboy Ridge is a beautiful line & I highly recommend it, just don’t underestimate it like we initially did! It literally is a desert alpine route, not a climb. Long approach w/ ~2k elev gain, then a long chossy ridgeline w/ ~2k climb. Then ~4K descent. Pitch it out & you’ll be coming down in the dark, crux is a 5.6-7 vertical hand crack with nothing but air below you, awesome!

Led by sheep is an ok route (simuling works well), it leads to an incredible summit view though.

Enjoy your time there...

+1 for Cowboy ridge. Super fun the 5.7 handcrack is more like 5.2.

Fully agree with pooch. I climbed the Gunks quite a bit when I lived in Mass. and Zion is worlds apart. Steep horizontals on quartz versus steep crack climbing on soft sandstone (at least they are both steep...). Zion is a blast and you should consider the Cave Route at 5.7+ and Ashtar Command at 5.9, in addition to what pooch posted. Pretty much any face oriented route 5.10 and below you should crush. The cracks will give some difficulties though.

I am heading out there from Atlanta starting next Friday if you want to hang out. We will be in the Watchman campground.

pooch wrote: Pitch it out & you’ll be coming down in the dark, crux is a 5.6-7 vertical hand crack with nothing but air below you, awesome!

The pitching it out comment is true. Major exaggeration about the handcrack exposure though; it is above a decent sized ledge.

If this is your first time to Zion, don't neglect the hiking! Most of the renowned climbing, with some exceptions above, is above your skill level (and mine). The hiking and exploring in Zion is top notch though! I get a 2nd hand high just ogling at the hard climbing lines on the big walls. It's a bit late in the season but you might also consider renting a wetsuit and doing a canyon since you've got the gear. Pine Creek is a great canyon for a climber with limited canyoneering experience. Use a static line or an old climbing rope though, I wouldn't take my lead line down a canyon.  You'll need 200' for Pine Creek, but there are other great canyons with shorter longest raps. 

fossana wrote: The pitching it out comment is true. Major exaggeration about the handcrack exposure though; it is above a decent sized ledge.

Yeah that handcrack does start at the edge of a ledge, but i swear it veers slightly left, just enough so that when you pull the little overhang/bulge thing near the top you've got a ton of exposure beneath & next to you!  Either way the espouse on it is unbeatable

The Pulpit is a fun adventure. First pitch is a bolt ladder on the mankiest mank ever...which is part of the fun, only takes super small diameter binners, from what i recall. 2nd pitch is typical Zion funk, but protects.

Led by sheep is a fun casual half-day outing, it's like the opposite of the gunks (low angle holdless friction slab) but really easy. Confluence area and Kung Fu Theatre has some moderate cragging routes.

+1 to doing a canyon, they are super fun. There are some dry ones (Birch Hollow, Behunin) if you don't want to get wet, but agreed that you'll want to use a junk rope you don't mind getting sandy AF or a 8+mm static line for canyon rappels.

I'll be there this weekend too with a big crew, stop by watchman site E5 at night and I can give you some more advice on stuff to do although I know much more about the canyoneering and scrambling than the climbing in Zion.

Ben Taggart wrote: Led by sheep is a fun casual half-day outing, it's like the opposite of the gunks (low angle holdless friction slab) but really easy. Confluence area and Kung Fu Theatre has some moderate cragging routes.

+1 to doing a canyon, they are super fun. There are some dry ones (Birch Hollow, Behunin) if you don't want to get wet, but agreed that you'll want to use a junk rope you don't mind getting sandy AF or a 8+ static line for canyon rappels.

I'll be there this weekend too with a big crew, stop by watchman site E5 at night and I can give you some more advice on stuff to do although I know much more about the canyoneering and scrambling than the climbing in Zion. 

Ashtar Command is a fun, easy, and well protected two pitch tower route that only requires a minimal standard rack and quick draws:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105792804/ashtar-command

Marc801 C wrote: Here’s a link to the Behunin Canyon page. http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/zion/technical/behunin-canyon/
Note the possible swim, the 8 rappels, and the last rap is a free hanging 165’. 

OP said he climbs in the gunks, so I assumed he's familiar and comfortable with overhanging double-rope or multi-pitch rappelling, attaching oneself to anchors, etc. I've done Behunin and as far as Zion canyons go it's quite straightforward, the anchors are all bomber new bolts or giant trees and all good stances or ledges. I cannot speak for current conditions but I believe it's usually dry, as the beta indicates, and certainly the water was bypassable when I did it this time last year. I thought it might be a good recommendation for the OP since he indicated he was looking for a longer day (eg. Cowboy ridge). 

Ben Taggart wrote:

OP said he climbs in the gunks, so I assumed he's familiar and comfortable with overhanging double-rope or multi-pitch rappelling, attaching oneself to anchors, etc. I've done Behunin and as far as Zion canyons go it's quite straightforward, the anchors are all bomber new bolts or giant trees and all good stances or ledges. I cannot speak for current conditions but I believe it's usually dry, as the beta indicates, and certainly the water was bypassable when I did it this time last year. I thought it might be a good recommendation for the OP since he indicated he was looking for a longer day (eg. Cowboy ridge). 

Yep. What we don't know is his experience with canyoneering and whether he knows about the extra gear he'd need to bring for something like Behunin. It's straight forward, but maybe not the best if he's brand new to canyoneering.

While Behunin is usually dry, southern Utah has seen a shit ton of rain in recent weeks. I'd expect a swim right now and be pleasantly surprised if it's not needed.

Edit UPDATE: Behunin is a moot discussion at this point. From the NPS page for canyoneering permits:

Behunin Canyon has been closed for the following reason(s):
From Monday September 10, 2018 thru  Sunday December 30, 2018: Area is closed due to wash out of trail at the Grotto and Emerald Pools. Reopening date has not been determined

Klimbien wrote: The Pulpit is a fun adventure. First pitch is a bolt ladder on the mankiest mank ever...which is part of the fun, only takes super small diameter binners, from what i recall. 2nd pitch is typical Zion funk, but protects.

Now rebolted

Ashtar Command is above your stated grade, but takes amazing pro on the first pitch crack. 2nd pitch is super fun face climbing with bolts. Spacing is "exciting" but the climbing is all there. I'd say it's a pretty cool route to push yourself on if you're into that. Led by Sheep on Aries Butte is a classic must-do as well...again as seems usual in Zion, it's exciting, but goes 5.6. 

Led by Sheep combined with Pine Creek Canyon makes for a really fun day.

And, a reminder that Led by Sheep requires a second rope or tagline for the raps.

awolf wrote: Led by Sheep combined with Pine Creek Canyon makes for a really fun day.

And, a reminder that Led by Sheep requires a second rope or tagline for the raps.

And a reminder that Pine Creek Canyon will be wet and very cold this time of year. The NPS says:

Pine Creek Canyon Information:
Expect cold water. Wetsuits Mandatory. Do not jump off anything. Follow creek drainage to exit the canyon. Pack out human waste and TP. Expect full winter conditions

3 days to kill in Zion?

Canyoneering is to flirt with hypothermia.

Ashtar will be cold too.

Catch the Cave route in the morning then head to the Practice Cliffs.

Hike Angel's Landing before you epic on CR.

Learn to wall and come back with a month.

The canyons will be wet; we've had significant rainfall the past 3 weeks.  There are also other options for fun, alpine-like scrambly routes, like Bridge Mountain and Mountain of the Sun.  Also have a look at Snow Canyon near St George.

Spend a day climbing in Snow Canyon:

​5.4 to 5.9​​​

You'll be in the sun and have a good time.

Thanks for all the comments! I have a lot to thumb through. This community is the best.

A few have commented on the grades, so I'm interested to see how it warms up. Climbed in Jtree and with that rock quality, the grades came easier than at Gunks.  My local crag is a friction slab-face-sport-face climbing; that is my milieu... but I'm coming for more.
We are used to climbing in the winter in the northeast (though it hasn't started yet) so I'm interested in the forecast; I'm anticipating the lower latitude will be forgiving until the sun drops.

I'm wanting Cowboy ridge to be the central tendancy of the trip. Initially, until an unfortunate accident tied up three of my family members, this was a let's hike angel's landing family trip with me agreeing solely if given a few days to climb. The trip was not my idea so it doesn't feel right to stick to the OG intinerary. So a more technically spicey hike would be suitable since the two of us left going are climbers. The recurring theme, from digging, is easy, hard to protect, with 1 ropeworthy pitch?

TLDR seriously, THANKS. If i do anything I will be happy. Even grounded with the regional flora and fauna will be a kick.