Zion first-timers

Hey MP!

Wife and I are making our first trek to Zion for Thanksgiving this year & staying at Watchman camp site. What are some "classics" to rope up on? The .10 or under range would be ideal for me, but 7's to 9's would be best for my wife(free w/out having to jumar up). Either single digit multi-pitches(my goal...) or TR options for my wife. Other than Moonlight Buttress (being on my to-do list) listed here on the site, I'm kind of at a loss on what routes to pursue or areas to visit. It'll be a first on sandstone, so it'll be a learning curve over solid granite. All of my climbing pursuits have been in The Valley and Southern CA. Also, any recommend guide books to pick up for this and future visits back?

Cheers, on belay!

-Colin

Zion is pretty limited in the "classics" at your grade range.  There's an enormous amount of climbing in the St. George area but Zion itself is not really known as a destination for cragging.

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/zion-climbing.html

A few of the most popular options are listed on this website's database.

If i had to pick an area for you I would look at confluence

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/classics/106754169/the-confluence

super cool location to check out the view while your not climbing and a handful of friendly routes, and in a few spots an easy route gets you to shared anchors with some amazing, but more difficult routes you could consider top-ropping

Unless you are doing a wall, just hike and enjoy the place - it's absolutely incredible. If you must get your climb on, do Ashtar Command and call it good. Unless you are going to do more than 1/2 route, it's a long hike out to Namaste wall, although Kolob Canyon is beautiful.

ColinW wrote: Hey MP!

Wife and I are making our first trek to Zion for Thanksgiving this year & staying at Watchman camp site. What are some "classics" to rope up on? The .10 or under range would be ideal for me, but 7's to 9's would be best for my wife(free w/out having to jumar up). Either single digit multi-pitches(my goal...) or TR options for my wife. Other than Moonlight Buttress (being on my to-do list) listed here on the site, I'm kind of at a loss on what routes to pursue or areas to visit. It'll be a first on sandstone, so it'll be a learning curve over solid granite. All of my climbing pursuits have been in The Valley and Southern CA. Also, any recommend guide books to pick up for this and future visits back?

Hate to say it, but you guys really aren't ready for Zion just yet.

Just thinking if your coming from San Diego and have not climbed sandstone before you might want to look into climbing in Red Rocks.  Might be more enjoyable for your wife.

Marc801 C wrote: Hate to say it, but you guys really aren't ready for Zion just yet.

They may not be ready for the walls, but there is no reason anyone with halfway decent route-finding skills couldn't do the Original route up Lady. It's only 2 short 5.easy sections, but you get like 2500 feet of bushwacking and tons of great scrambling - some of which you can rope-up for. There are a handful of really long adventure scramble/climbs in the park. I haven't done them all, but if you like that sort of thing like I do, it's lots of fun. You can also try for Cowboy Ridge, though it is much more serious (but not because of the climbing).

Surprised no one has suggested canyoneering as an alternative yet. Zion canyoneering is some of the best type 1 fun you can have. With a bit of route-finding, 400 feet of rope, and a wetsuit you have access to some of the best scenery and adventures around. I've gone to Zion in November two years in a row and have had the best times scrambling and rappelling down canyons. We've had no problem getting permits for classic canyons and were generally alone all day. Great times.

there's a bunch of cool bouldering right across the road from Watchman. And, as stated above, there's https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105792804/ashtar-command

Ashtar Command is pretty cruiser, short approach, and just pure fun. In that same area is the stellar, but more difficult, Headache. If you loved the Headache and both felt comfortable on it and are feeling ambitious, check out Iron Messiah. 

Led By Sheep is a classic. 4 pitches of run out and very easy slab climbing.  

Jack Servedio wrote:

They may not be ready for the walls, but there is no reason anyone with halfway decent route-finding skills couldn't do the Original route up Lady. It's only 2 short 5.easy sections, but you get like 2500 feet of bushwacking and tons of great scrambling - some of which you can rope-up for. There are a handful of really long adventure scramble/climbs in the park. I haven't done them all, but if you like that sort of thing like I do, it's lots of fun. You can also try for Cowboy Ridge, though it is much more serious (but not because of the climbing).

True enough, but those things are 1. relatively few, 2. don't really fall into the OP's desired categories.

Mike S wrote: Led By Sheep is a classic. 4 pitches of run out and very easy slab climbing.  

I was going to mention that, too. All bolts. 5.7 rating but easier than that. Beautiful setting and beautiful views. Just know you need two ropes to descend; some pitches are around 150'.

Faafo wrote: Practice Wall in the Court of the Patriarchs.  Easy access using the shuttle, short walk from the shuttle stop. Single pitch stuff 5.7-5.10 range. Top Rope anchors accessible from walking around left side to the top. ( gear and extra rope will be useful for setting up anchors) also great views and close to the river.

Practice Wall  is new to me. Is there more there than what is listed here on MP? 'Cause that's enough for a half day or so....

Unknown                     T,TR 5.7

Unknown Chimney         TR 5.6

Casual Sex                       T 5.8

Flake Route                     T 5.9  

There's a handful of beautiful single pitch .10 cracks at the Cerberus Gendarme ( mountainproject.com/area/10…) that might fit the bill.

There are not many moderate routes (5.9 and under) in Zion.  Mostly because it's generally crack climbing or run out slab, all of which is sandy and adventurous.  If you've only got a couple days I would say...

1st pitch of Cherry Crack (Cerberus Gendarm) aka at Big Bend - then some of the low 10's right there that your wife could TR.  You could also go check out some of the unnamed/misc 5.9's at Kung Fu Theatre same day if you wanted.

Led By Sheep - get on some sandy ass run out moderate climbing with amazing views... better views than moves. Great summit

Hike Angles Landing

Hike into The Narrows as far as you feel like it

Observation Point / Emerald Pools would be other good hikes.  Hang by the Virgin river and have a soak

Matt Kuehl wrote:Hike into The Narrows as far as you feel like it

If you do, do yourself a favor and rent the basic canyon package of canyon shoes/neoprene socks/walking staff. While you can manage with your hikers and trekking poles, you'll be much happier with the real gear.
1. walking in the river is like walking on greased bowling balls
2. the water is colder than you first think, esp since your feet are in it 80% of the time
3. there are many sections where you brace *hard* against the walking staff - I've seen trekking poles collapse in that use case.

I second the suggestion to do Led by Sheep. Amazing hike and approach (those 4th class slabs have gorgeous colors), the runouts make this interesting because the moves are super easy, and the views are spectacular. No trad gear needed, but you do need to carry a second 60m rope for rappel. 

first couple pitches of either of these might be good too, like Led by sheep but debatably easier and significantly shorter approach

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107425793/checkerboard-mesa

this actually looks pretty fun. 10 pitches!

​https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114075478/crazy-streak​​​

budman wrote: Just thinking if your coming from San Diego and have not climbed sandstone before you might want to look into climbing in Red Rocks.  Might be more enjoyable for your wife.

That's on our agenda on the drive back home! For the guys saying I'm not ready for climbing in Zion, I'll be kind and say ok and I appreciate your feedback. But, c'mon....The same can be said for you not ready to make a tenure into Yosemite. ;) I could just as easily aid climb the first few pitches of a well known route like Moonlight buttress, with my wife jummaring and rap off. I was simply asking for some routes to do. 

Thanks for everyone's input! Much appreciated. Climb hard friends.