Avg: 3 from 28 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||7,287 total · 157/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Mielke on Feb 8, 2018 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
This low angle White Rock route is destined to become a Classic.
The route is well protected with bolts where gear is inadequate, and can be done with a single 60m Rope. **WARNING: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent. Tie Knots in your rope!
P1: 100' 5.- Low angle groove that takes #4 camalot and smaller.
P2: 80' 5.8+ Friction climb past a bolt to a groove that takes medium gear to a shallow ledge, clip the high bolt and friction climb (crux) to a low angle groove that takes medium to small gear.
P3: 100' 5.7+ Climb up to cool iron deposit chicken heads and friction climbing past bolts.
P4: 100' 5.7 Traverse left past 2 bolts to shallow non-continuous crack that takes medium gear. Continue up past 4 bolts.
P5: 100' 5.7 Climb up and clip first bolt, foot traverse right to a "U" shaped hold. Mantle up and traverse back up and left past bolts to non-continuous crack that takes medium gear and past more bolts to anchor.
P6: 90' 5.6 Climb up and left past a dirty, shallow seem. Don't skip any opportunities to place gear in the shallow crack. When the crack stops, climb past single bolt to shallow ledge.
P7: 85' 5.6 Friction climb up and left then straight up past a few small bushes to a belay anchor.
P8: 90' 5.7+ Climb up and left past some steeper friction climbing to an interesting mantle move below the belay anchor on a small ledge.
P9: 100' 5.7+ Foot traverse right and mantle up. Climb left to non-continuous crack that takes hand sized gear past a low 5th class section with no pro for 25'. Continue through a series of mantles.
P10: 90' 5.7+ Spooky foot traverse right to a hard to see bolt then up and right to clip a bolt near a small pine tree. Scramble up and left over dirty loose rock to another hard to see bolt followed by a series of tricky mantles and steeper terrain to anchor at the lip of the face.
NEW VARIATION FOR PITCH 10: 90' (Still needs grade) Starting slightly right of the belay. Climb up past 4 bolts on sloping holds to the left of a large bush. Eventually trending right to meet up with the original route. --- This variation will avoid the wondering and dirty loose section of P10. However, this will drastically change the grade. Please leave a comment with your consensus and I will update it here.
Follows non continuous cracks through a red water streak to the top of the face. Rappel the route with a 60m rope. **WARNING: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent. Tie Knots in your rope!
*NOTE A park imposed RNA exists to protect the summit cap. Therefore the true summit is CLOSED TO RECREATIONAL USE. Please respect these boundaries.