Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Billy Hughes
Page Views: 7,287 total · 157/month
Shared By: Nathan Mielke on Feb 8, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This low angle White Rock route is destined to become a Classic.

The route is well protected with bolts where gear is inadequate, and can be done with a single 60m Rope. **WARNING: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent. Tie Knots in your rope!

P1: 100' 5.- Low angle groove that takes #4 camalot and smaller.

P2: 80' 5.8+ Friction climb past a bolt to a groove that takes medium gear to a shallow ledge, clip the high bolt and friction climb (crux) to a low angle groove that takes medium to small gear.

P3: 100' 5.7+ Climb up to cool iron deposit chicken heads and friction climbing past bolts.

P4: 100' 5.7 Traverse left past 2 bolts to shallow non-continuous crack that takes medium gear. Continue up past 4 bolts.

P5: 100' 5.7 Climb up and clip first bolt, foot traverse right to a "U" shaped hold. Mantle up and traverse back up and left past bolts to non-continuous crack that takes medium gear and past more bolts to anchor.

P6: 90' 5.6 Climb up and left past a dirty, shallow seem. Don't skip any opportunities to place gear in the shallow crack. When the crack stops, climb past single bolt to shallow ledge.

P7: 85' 5.6 Friction climb up and left then straight up past a few small bushes to a belay anchor.

P8: 90' 5.7+ Climb up and left past some steeper friction climbing to an interesting mantle move below the belay anchor on a small ledge.

P9: 100' 5.7+ Foot traverse right and mantle up. Climb left to non-continuous crack that takes hand sized gear past a low 5th class section with no pro for 25'. Continue through a series of mantles.

P10: 90' 5.7+ Spooky foot traverse right to a hard to see bolt then up and right to clip a bolt near a small pine tree. Scramble up and left over dirty loose rock to another hard to see bolt followed by a series of tricky mantles and steeper terrain to anchor at the lip of the face.

NEW VARIATION FOR PITCH 10: 90' (Still needs grade) Starting slightly right of the belay. Climb up past 4 bolts on sloping holds to the left of a large bush. Eventually trending right to meet up with the original route. --- This variation will avoid the wondering and dirty loose section of P10. However, this will drastically change the grade. Please leave a comment with your consensus and I will update it here.

Location

Follows non continuous cracks through a red water streak to the top of the face. Rappel the route with a 60m rope. **WARNING: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent. Tie Knots in your rope!

*NOTE A park imposed RNA exists to protect the summit cap. Therefore the true summit is CLOSED TO RECREATIONAL USE. Please respect these boundaries.

Protection

BD Camalots, .3 to #4, Extra #1 to #3, 15 quick draws (some alpine draws helpful), 60 meter rope **WARNING: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent. Tie Knots in your rope!

Photos