Looking for bad routes in Colorado

Hi All,

 I am getting slightly bored of routes in the 1.5 to 2.5 star range  . I've climbed many of the classic routes around Boulder but now I am intrigued by the really bad routes around Boulder and Colorado. Can anyone recommend some really shitty routes preferably with a bomb rating. Ideally I want the routes to be really scary but not in a fun exposure sort of way. Also, the more vegetation the better

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105746322/the-rotwand

Nils Johnson wrote:

Hi All,

... Can anyone recommend some really shitty routes...

Guano With The Wind, Lumpy Ridge on the Book End.  Definitely a lot of Guano.

Hair Lip, Veedauwoo on the Nautilus.  The traverse is ugly until the last 3 yards when the crux starts with fist jams and friction feet. The MP description only describes the first pitch.  The second pitch is the traverse.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105760194/hairlip

The Rotwand Wall is fantastically terrible. It's best you don't weight the anchors and be sure to wear long sleeves for the poison ivy. 

Eldorado Canyon, A Climbing Guide, 2nd ed. by S. Levin, p. 291: Top Ten Choss in Eldo.

Also, "Pigeon Exit, 5.7R" has Gear: Biohazard suit as an indication.

KevinCO wrote:

Guano With The Wind, Lumpy Ridge on the Book End.  Definitely a lot of Guano.

Hair Lip, Veedauwoo on the Nautilus.  The traverse is ugly until the last 3 yards when the crux starts with fist jams and friction feet. The MP description only describes the first pitch.  The second pitch is the traverse.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105760194/hairlip

I love HairLip!! 5.9 perfection!

To the OP: Just go drytool the most blacklisted bomb chipped routes.

Sport park has one or two.  ;)

Brad G wrote:

The Rotwand Wall is fantastically terrible. It's best you don't weight the anchors and be sure to wear long sleeves for the poison ivy. 

mmmmmm that looks like some yummy choss. I think that a lot of climbers could benefit from a good chossaneering adventure or two every now and then.

You certainly don't need a lot of it, but choss is an essential part of any climbing diet.

A few routes in the Bookcliffs outside of Junction should fill your needs. 

Joe Prescott wrote:

A few routes in the Bookcliffs outside of Junction should fill your needs. 

hahah yeah calling the Bookcliffs rock climbing terrain is hilarious!

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107358702/west-butte-northeast-face

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105745603/monument-rock

Pulpit rock in Colorado springs has some continuous cracks for 50+ feet. The only problem is if you put a cam in, the sandstone will literally crumble by just tugging it to the point of getting tipped out in a newly created pod. If you grab the rock, it'll crumble like stale bread in your hands. 0/10, would highly recommend.

Pawnee grasslands..east of fort collins

I have heard this one is especially bad.  (Mormon Tea)  It might leave a bad taste in your mouth.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105764172/bands-of-gold

^^^ Doesn't even have one bomb vote, c'mon man you can do better than that!

Try it and see, it has five or six bolts in the first 20 feet of easy climbing, followed by a 20 foot traverse (with a bush) to a crux. The traverse and crux have no bolts, as I recall. That sounds like exactly what Nils wants.

If you are looking for a road trip. Walk of Shame is a most do, especially in the dark.

Zach M wrote:

Try it and see, it has five or six bolts in the first 20 feet of easy climbing, followed by a 20 foot traverse (with a bush) to a crux. The traverse and crux have no bolts, as I recall. That sounds like exactly what Nils wants.

Fair enough, someone did give it THREE stars though.

Guy - that WOS route description & comments is the funniest thing I have read on MP! Thanks for posting that.

Try crooked cross

Highway 61 revisited! Bring a face mask. 

Fields chimney in summer.