Cleaning small nuts
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I placed a little green DMM (#2 wallnut?) yesterday that my partner couldn't clean. He said the crack was too thin to accept his nut tool, so he yanked upwards causing it to pop upwards, rotate a bit, and get real stuck. I didn't rap back down to look at it, but the party following said it was good and fixed. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the little ones out? |
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A Water Pik? If a nut tool won't fit in there, I'd like to hear some other methods, too. |
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Oh and if you have mad cleaning skillz and want the booty it's on P3 of Perversion. Have fun :) |
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J-Moe wrote: Not all nut tools have the same thickness. You could get a thinner one or just file the tip thinner on the one you have. |
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Take a shower? |
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1. Moist 'em with a little of warm water. 2. Apply a bit of shampoo and foam it. 3. Rinse it off with a little of warm water. |
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J-Moe wrote: Absolutely deserved to lose it, pulling up on it like that. Sorry to be harsh, but noob mistake, and there's a price to be paid. nb. Metolius and DMM nuts are especially prone to stickage when one does this. That "longitudinal groove" that makes these nuts so awesome in marginal placements means they don't suffer fools, as it were. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Yeah I'm not a big fan of the upwards tug method, but I didn't have a good, straightforward explanation of an alternate technique. I was hoping a crusty old tradster might have a trick or two, other than calling me a noob-fool who deserved what I got. And I placed, not cleaned it so I think this harshness is a bit misdirected. |
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J-Moe wrote: It's simple: reverse the movement that was used to place the nut. Usually that means keeping the cable pointing downwards (NO UPWARDS YANK!), move it up (nut tool!) and then out. |
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climbing friend, put away your tiny nuts! no one is wanting to see them, let alone "clean" them! Myahahah! |
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For stuck cams or nuts I’ve resorted to feeding my thin nut tool cord or alpine draw Dyneema behind the piece to get a new angle of pull. That usually reverses whatever bullshit got it stuck |
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Crack too small for a nut tool? Your partner is a nut tool |
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Aleks Zebastian wrote: quote of the year |
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Yanking it upwards is usually the second step for me, if pushing up on the wire doesn't work. Do you guys go straight to the nut tool or what am I missing? |
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Fredrik Ehne wrote: A light, upward flip will usually remove it. The key word is "light," otherwise, it may get more stuck. If the upward flip doesn't work, I push up on the cable (or try that first). If that doesn't work, it's nut tool-time. |
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The trick I had to use yesterday on a thin nut was something that I had never used before. I had to push the wire up through the nut. Then, with a very thin nut tool, hook the loop of The Wire and pull it out of the crack. Then, I put a biner on both ends of the wire and it pulled right out. It had been rocking on the 2 inner lobes... |
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Pavel Burov wrote: I think you need to repeat if you follow the direction on the shampoo bottle |
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Mark LaPierre wrote: A programmer has died washing his head. An almost empty shampoo bottle has been discovered at the scene. The shampoo instruction says: wash, rinse, repeat. |
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Drew Spaulding wrote: Lobes? |
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Pavel Burov wrote: Caught in an infinite loop, poor bastard |