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Cleaning small nuts


Original Post
J-Moe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

I placed a little green DMM (#2 wallnut?) yesterday that my partner couldn't clean. He said the crack was too thin to accept his nut tool, so he yanked upwards causing it to pop upwards, rotate a bit, and get real stuck. I didn't rap back down to look at it, but the party following said it was good and fixed.

Does anyone have any tricks for getting the little ones out?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

A Water Pik? If a nut tool won't fit in there, I'd like to hear some other methods, too.

J-Moe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

Oh and if you have mad cleaning skillz and want the booty it's on P3 of Perversion. Have fun :)

Patrik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 31
J-Moe wrote:

I placed a little green DMM (#2 wallnut?) yesterday that my partner couldn't clean. He said the crack was too thin to accept his nut tool, so he yanked upwards causing it to pop upwards, rotate a bit, and get real stuck. I didn't rap back down to look at it, but the party following said it was good and fixed.

Does anyone have any tricks for getting the little ones out?

Not all nut tools have the same thickness. You could get a thinner one or just file the tip thinner on the one you have. 

cragmantoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 175

Take a shower?

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

1. Moist 'em with a little of warm water.

2. Apply a bit of shampoo and foam it.

3. Rinse it off with a little of warm water.

M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,605

Small washcloth?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
J-Moe wrote:

I placed a little green DMM (#2 wallnut?) yesterday that my partner couldn't clean. He said the crack was too thin to accept his nut tool, so he yanked upwards causing it to pop upwards, rotate a bit, and get real stuck. I didn't rap back down to look at it, but the party following said it was good and fixed.

Does anyone have any tricks for getting the little ones out?

Absolutely deserved to lose it, pulling up on it like that.  Sorry to be harsh, but noob mistake, and there's a price to be paid.  nb. Metolius and DMM nuts are especially prone to stickage when one does this. That "longitudinal groove" that makes these nuts so awesome in marginal placements means they don't suffer fools, as it were.

J-Moe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20
Gunkiemike wrote:

Absolutely deserved to lose it, pulling up on it like that

Yeah I'm not a big fan of the upwards tug method, but I didn't have a good, straightforward explanation of an alternate technique. I was hoping a crusty old tradster might have a trick or two, other than calling me a noob-fool who deserved what I got. And I placed, not cleaned it so I think this harshness is a bit misdirected.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
J-Moe wrote:

Yeah I'm not a big fan of the upwards tug method, but I didn't have a good, straightforward explanation of an alternate technique. I was hoping a crusty old tradster might have a trick or two, other than calling me a noob-fool who deserved what I got. And I placed, not cleaned it so I think this harshness is a bit misdirected.

It's simple: reverse the movement that was used to place the nut. Usually that means keeping the cable pointing downwards (NO UPWARDS YANK!), move it up (nut tool!) and then out.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

put away your tiny nuts! no one is wanting to see them, let alone "clean" them! Myahahah!

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 421

For stuck cams or nuts I’ve resorted to feeding my thin nut tool cord or alpine draw Dyneema behind the piece to get a new angle of pull. That usually reverses whatever bullshit got it stuck

Darren Mabe · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,830

Crack too small for a nut tool? Your partner is a nut tool

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10
Aleks Zebastian wrote:

climbing friend,

put away your tiny nuts! no one is wanting to see them, let alone "clean" them! Myahahah!

quote of the year

Fredrik Ehne · · Stockholm, Sweden · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Yanking it upwards is usually the second step for me, if pushing up on the wire doesn't work. Do you guys go straight to the nut tool or what am I missing?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Fredrik Ehne wrote:

Yanking it upwards is usually the second step for me, if pushing up on the wire doesn't work. Do you guys go straight to the nut tool or what am I missing?

A light, upward flip will usually remove it. The key word is "light," otherwise, it may get more stuck.  If the upward flip doesn't work, I push up on the cable (or try that first). If that doesn't work, it's nut tool-time.

Drew Spaulding · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,631

The trick I had to use yesterday on a thin nut was something that I had never used before. I had to push the wire up through the nut. Then, with a very thin nut tool, hook the loop of The Wire and pull it out of the crack. Then, I put a biner on both ends of the wire and it pulled right out. It had been rocking on the 2 inner lobes...

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,649

Your partner owes you a stopper.  The reason I say this is that the stopper came out of its original placement and got stuck in another.  If it moves, it can be cleaned.  That's a cleaning error, not a placing error.  

Cleaning well placed small stoppers requires one to really observe how it went in, and to try to reverse that path.  If the nut went in, a nut tool can fit to reach the head somehow in all but the rarest circumstances.  An upward tug, if it's not yarded on violently can help, but as has been mentioned (and observed) can make the problem worse.  I have seldom seen a placement that can't be reached at all with a nut tool.  I sometimes resort to using a large biner (and in some cases a large cam) as a hammer to tap on the piece to loosen it.  Another trick is to try to hook the under side of the stopper from above, thread a piece of cord or a sling or quickdraw or something through the end of the nut tool so that you can tug upward on the bottom of the stopper which is usually enough to get some movement out of it.  Try to not weld the stopper when you're placing it. I tend to set small stoppers more than larger ones, but you shouldn't be yanking on it when you place it hard enough to weld it into place.  Another trick for cleaning stoppers is to hook the wire above the nut (won't work on tiny ones though, because the wire doesn't loop out of the top of the stopper) and pull the wire up.  

The only stoppers I've seen that I couldn't remove are ones that I couldn't reach.  Most of the time when I've seen fixed gear that wasn't there for a purpose, it's either too manky to worry about or it's not reachable.  The good news is it was a small stopper and not a small cam.

Mark LaPierre · · spencer, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70
Pavel Burov wrote:

1. Moist 'em with a little of warm water.

2. Apply a bit of shampoo and foam it.

3. Rinse it off with a little of warm water.

I think you need to repeat if you follow the direction on the shampoo bottle 

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Mark LaPierre wrote:

I think you need to repeat if you follow the direction on the shampoo bottle 

A programmer has died washing his head. An almost empty shampoo bottle has been discovered at the scene. The shampoo instruction says: wash, rinse, repeat.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Drew Spaulding wrote:

The trick I had to use yesterday on a thin nut was something that I had never used before. I had to push the wire up through the nut. Then, with a very thin nut tool, hook the loop of The Wire and pull it out of the crack. Then, I put a biner on both ends of the wire and it pulled right out. It had been rocking on the 2 inner lobes...

Lobes?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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