Best slab in the USA

Someone is bound to mention Cochise on this thread eventually. I haven't been there yet, but it seems to me like it wound be one of the first places I'd go to if I ever had a hankering to go slab climbing again (although I think that the year that I spent living in Idyllwild provided me with enough slab-time to last me for the rest of the decade).

For slab climbing it's-- NC, NH and Suicide. for a route, Crest jewel for sure

If you think it's a bit mild, try simulclimbing it for speed. My best is 2:04

Jon Moen wrote:Adirondacks: The best forgotten area in the country.

Amen. How can so much good climbing go largely un-noticed? There is enough rock in the Dacks for two lifetimes and it's all of excellent quality. It's one of the only other places in the US that I'd like to permanently settle down (other than NC of course).

Jon Moen wrote: Squamish: Not in the USA, but so good. Cruel Shoes is fantastic. Good easier slabs (plus some really hard ones too) on the Apron. I like the texture of the granite there more than what is found in California; less prone to greasiness. Overall, my favorite granite climbing area.

This +1 Cruel Shoes is CLASSIC and there are so many other QUALITY slab climbs there it's MUST visit place. Also of Note: "Local Boys Do Good", Dream Symphony, and though I haven't been on them, "White Lightning", "Magic Carpet Ride" and "Dancing in the Light" get raves from everyone I've talked to. They are on my list next time I go back.

Randy W. wrote: How about verification on this one. mountainproject.com/v/climb…

Of the friction climbing I've done at Lumpy this one would certainly rank very high. The slab is only one pitch but you're already a pitch up so the position is pretty awesome.
Or you could wander down to the pages wall and check this one out:

Frisky Puppies
The climbing up to the crux is awesome and it only looks like it gets better, let me know how the top half is, I couldn't manage to figure out how to put it together.

Haven't climbed a ton in Squish, but would have to agree w/ the other poster that the quality of the fine grained granite there is to die for. Some of the best friction climbing I've ever been on.

The only thing I can think of to represent the home state of Rado would be this guy

Post up the TR and let us slab lovers know what you think.
cheers,
BA

Cory wrote: Maybe not really a slab climb, but you can approach CJ on North Dome by first climbing Royal Arches, which will get you another 15 pitches with a 10a slab crux if you skip the pendulum. So if you're doing the direct variation on North Dome (The direct start goes at 10d and adds 5 pitches) you will total 30 pitches. Not a bad day!

+1 for that. You can make the flat hike out to Tioga Road and hitchhike back to the Valley. Super fun day, of half day I should say since so much of the climbing goes so fast!

Moondance at Suicide is pretty fantastic, and for a single pitch job Winter Solstice is awesome.

Moondance is hard, sustained, and run on flawless rock.
Winter Solstice is the hardest pure friction I've ever wobbled up. It's typical slab work throughout the pitch with smearing bumps dishes and micro edges but in the roughly 15' of crux climbing there is nothing even resembling an edge or flaw in the rock, just paste and pray.

Superslab goes up a pretty aesthetic piece of rock

Edit to add: I know, Colorado is overrated or whatever

John Langston said:"Is Big Rock Candy Mountain in the Splatte worth mentioning? Or is Colorado too overhyped?"

Olaf replied: John, Big Rock is defiantly worthy of mention in this thread. It has length and some of the best rock in the South Platte region,that's my opinion any way.

Quartz Mtn, OK.

I throw my vote in for the whole Darrington area. Anything from easy stuff to 22 pitch 5.10s. The view isn't too bad either.

Jon Moen wrote:Someone is bound to mention Cochise on this thread eventually. I haven't been there yet, but it seems to me like it wound be one of the first places I'd go to if I ever had a hankering to go slab climbing again (although I think that the year that I spent living in Idyllwild provided me with enough slab-time to last me for the rest of the decade).

Holy crap I can't believe I forgot the Stronghold! Warpaint is one of the better routes I've ever done... of any kind! Mad Cow Disease and Stampede on the Sheepshead would get more stars from me if they weren't drastically overbolted. Not that I didn't clip most of the bolts, but sometimes it was a bit silly (you could stand on one bolt and clip the next for most of the climbing on both routes).

Well if you are going to include Oklahomo, how can you not include Texas' Enchanted Rock! Best winter seasons slabs around!

This video proves it!!! :-)

vimeo.com/23744926

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106402234

This climb is by far the blankest climb I have ever been on - the crux features a section that has absolutely NO holds AT ALL!!!

Probably not on par, quality-wise, with the granite slabs discussed so far, but it's worth mentioning the San Rafael Reef in Utah. The area has been pioneered by old-timer Paul Ross. BIG sandstone slabs, up to 2,000' in length. Rock quality variable as most routes have seen very few ascents and can still be a bit sandy. Very aesthetic place for a few reasons - long, continuous climbs in a wilderness setting, wild geology, otherwordly views, awesome summits that look out over the San Rafael Swell, free camping with a town nearby. Maybe get to sign your name next to Chris Bonington's in a little summit register! Tons of routes - Paul Ross never rests. Check it out!

mountainproject.com/v/easte…

Typical climbing scene:

Multi-pitch slabs are cool and all but for best single pitch of slab climbing EBGB's in J-Tree has got to be at the top of the list.

The second pitch mountainproject.com/v/full-… I have a distinct memory of a dyno to a black crystal in a moment of sheer desperation.

Royal Arches and the Crested Jewel one of the best days of climbing ever.

WOW! Awesome information here. San Rafael Swell has been on this list a while. Squamish and areas of NC look slabtastic! Looks like I'll have my work cut out verifying answers on this thread, but Ima try!

Don't forget about Warpaint...