Frisky Puppies 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Donahue/Harvey, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Jan 29, 2010 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A testpiece friction slab!! #2 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes). #1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock #3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock (Both are excellent Crago masterpieces) Honorable mentions:
- ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
- **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)
Foot-friction traverse up and left for a full 50 meters of friction-paddling, smedging and off balance/opposing presses following a white dike. The pitch is adequately bolted and quite sustained with the crux section halfway between the ground and a blunt knob in a trough. The slightly steeper headwall section has some small crimps and is sustained 5.11. Place a med nut or small cam under a roof and get to a horn rap-anchor which may or may not have slings around it (165').
Location On the Book. Long, bolted slab just right of George's Tree.
Protection 10 bolts, a sling, and medium nuts or small cams. 2 50m ropes.
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