David Lama Backs Down (Front page news)

"I can take it" (In response to the flack about rap-bolting for cameras and for his climbing.)

rockandice.com/news/1334-la…

Guess he couldn't.

Wow, this would be best served as a compliment to the reversal of philosophy rather than snarkyness. Sure seems to me that you want to reward repentance, not to continue what could be perceived as criticism.

Thank you Lama. Whatever your reasons you've made most of the climbers posting here happy. Best of luck and safety on your attempt.

Tony B wrote:Wow, this would be best served as a compliment to the reversal of philosophy rather than snarkyness. Sure seems to me that you want to reward repentance, to continue what could be perceived as criticism.

+1

Tony B wrote:Wow, this would be best served as a compliment to the reversal of philosophy rather than snarkyness. Sure seems to me that you want to reward repentance, to continue what could be perceived as criticism.

I'm as glad as anyone that he's not rap-bolting and destroying such a remote and pristine area, I was just commenting on his arrogant approach to the issue.

power to the people

The guy is 20. Lets cut him some slack. Yes he arrogantly opened his mouth, but he also seems to have realized the error of his ways. Thank you to the Patagonia climbing community for (from my understanding) talking some sense into him. I for one am going to give him the benefit of the doubt, and wish him the best of luck on what could be a really cool climb.
Nikolai

Tony B wrote:Wow, this would be best served as a compliment to the reversal of philosophy rather than snarkyness. Sure seems to me that you want to reward repentance, to continue what could be perceived as criticism.

+1 Anyone who hand-drills bolts on lead can have it as far as I am concerned.

Rock & Ice wrote:Reasons for his planned switch in tactics have to do with the cold, icy conditions that Patagonia is currently enjoying, as well as the climbers in Patagonia who vocally opposed his intended top-down style of inspection.

Sounds like some locals applied some pressure.

A victory for the climbing ethics of yestercentury.

"I can accept bolted routes and sport climbing, I partake. But sport alpinism? Yeah Verm, it's neither." - Mark Twight

Excellent! I hope this kid does do Cerro Torre ground up. It'll open up the possibilities of what else he can ground up w/o rap bolting.

Michaeld916 wrote:It'll open up the possibilities of what else he can ground up w/o rap bolting.

+1

I'm happy to be able to genuinely offer David the best of luck on this project. Success on this thing will be damn impressive.

You guys cannot be serious!

There was this big controversy last year about David Lama placing a bunch of unnecessary bolts and leaving his trash behind in a pristine alpine setting. There was definitely reason to be upset.

Then everyone got their panties in a twist this year because he considered bolting a pitch on rappel. The permanent effects of such an act would be less than or equal to the effects if he had bolted on lead.

Now he decides not to rap bolt and you all decide that you'll stand behind him and cheer him on? I don't get it? What about the real harm he caused on the mountain? Is all else forgiven? Am I the only one who thinks this is messed up?

Why is rap bolting the greatest crime that David Lama could have committed on Cerro Torre?

Dusty wrote:Why is rap bolting the greatest crime that David Lama could have committed on Cerro Torre?

It isn't the worst crime. It's better than what he did last year.

But his plan to rap-bolt it wasn't awesome either. Surely you can recognize why a line like the Bachar-Yerian is so revered.

Colin Simon wrote: It isn't the worst crime. It's better than what he did last year. But his plan to rap-bolt it wasn't awesome either. Surely you can recognize why a line like the Bachar-Yerian is so revered.

Bachar-Yerian has almost been done sans bolts. Maybe it never should have been bolted in the first place... perhaps then it would be even more "revered".

dhayan wrote: If you can't see the difference between rap bolting and bolting on lead then i don't think we can have a real conversation here...

I can see a difference, I just think that bolting on rappel is sometimes the more ethical approach. Would you rather someone bolt a ladder on lead or bolt responsibly on rappel?

dhayan wrote: I agree...but I think in general, bolting on lead has more favorable results than rap bolting. It's much easier to place unnecessary bolts on rappel then on lead...(not talking about people aiding bolt ladders...)

I would argue the exact opposite. On a hard free face climb it should be easier to place the bolts in the right place if you don't have to rely on hooked edges.

I think lead bolting goes both ways. On one hand you have free climbs that essentially follow bolt ladders, which I love on lead cause I'm usually frightened and want to clip my rope into everything in sight. These routes are usually a let down though, with too many bolts, not always following the best natural free climbing line and sometimes awkward clips.

On the other hand, I have climbed lead bolted routes that I feel convey a better experience than a rap bolted line usually would. For example, many face/slab climbs I've done that were lead bolted (usually stance) are great in the way you get protection at a natural stance, then you usually have to climb above those bolts making the climbing moves ABOVE the bolts and getting another bolt only at the next natural stance. I know that bolted lines are never "natural" but I think bolting in this style produces a route with challenges more along the lines of what the rock offers, as opposed to getting a fat bolt overhead while making crux moves.

Got this email today in response to a message I sent to Red Bull last week.

Hi Bud,

Thanks for sending us your concern.

David Lama is back in Patagonia climbing the Cerro Torre. Due to bad weather, the undertaking and film production had to be stopped last year. The entire shoulder and wall has been cleaned of our and older material which was found. Only one haul bag and 30 bolts, which had do be used due to falling ice and to protect the main climbing route, had been left. For the completion of the production, the film crew will refrain from using any further bolts and remove the existing ones as part of this years attempt. We know David Lama as a responsible climber, support his undertaking and know that he will refrain from any unnecessary and incorrect steps.

If you have any further questions or comments, feel free to give us a call at 1(877)673-9444.

Respectfully,

Emily
Red Bull
www.redbullusa.com