If I were this type of route.. where would I be....

I am looking for a route (or two or three) in close proximity to the Boulder area where I can set up a TR to practice placing trad. I know that since there are HUNDREDS of climbs within half an hour of the People's Republic, this must exist. Any ideas? I've heard that the "Boulderado" may be a good choice. Thoughts?

Andrew in Boulder,

I suggest learning to place pro on lead by placing pro on lead.
Select a climb well within your ability. Make it a route that is only slightly harder than that which you would free solo.
Another good intro to placing gear is to second on a lead and remove pro. Examining the leaders placements before removal is a fine way to see how the pieces fit.

Andrew, I saw your post. Having been in your situation many years ago, I'm not sure that I'd choose Boulderado. I did. The approach to the top of these climbs is quite exposed, the beginnings are a bit slopey, too. It's roadside. There is a book that I've not read thoroughly on TR in the Front Range. There's always N. Table Mt near Golden with bunches of trad lines between the bolted faces. There are some easier trad leads on the W face of Whale's Tail in Eldorado Canyon (if you're willing to lead). There's Lookout Mt near Golden (N facing though).

Try Practice Rock or Happy Hour Crag, two areas that have easy TR approach as well as a variety of climbs, but I agree with the other post saying there is no better way to learn as to go out and do it. Get on something very easy and get cosy with proper placement of gear as well as the climbing itself. East Slab on the Dome is a perfect first lead as well as the Amphitheater at the base of Gregory Canyon.
BE SAFE

Leo Paik wrote:Andrew, I saw your post. Having been in your situation many years ago, I'm not sure that I'd choose Boulderado. There's always N. Table Mt near Golden with bunches of trad lines between the bolted faces.

Andrew - I would go along with Leo here - N Table is going to be your best & safest bet - Killians Dead (5.6) & Big Dihedral (5.8) have bolt stations you can TR & mock lead. Also, the Trad Lands have some mixed pro routes with anchors - Traditions (5.9) is probably the safest to set up a TR and mock lead. Liar Liar (5.8) & X-It (5.9), I thought were also fun mixed pro routes that have established anchors.

Not to mention - you can get out of the Republic of.

Andrew, being in a similar situation, here is what I have recently done and I feel it worked well. Similar to what has been said find an area with some very easy climbs that you're sure you can take on. Get a competent and patient belayer and start climbing. Routes that allow a good rest position where you can place protection and spend time evaluating it and ensuring it is solid is a good idea. I also spent an entire afternoon a few weeks ago by myself just searching for cracks at Sheep's Nose and placing pro in them. It gave me a much better immediate feeling for what would work best. One thing I noticed is that I would usually grab one size larger than I needed which saved me time when I did a few trad routes later in the week. A quick review of John Long's Climbing Anchors will help with the thought process of evaluating your anchors for critical errors before moving on, I think. I know it's advice from a new and relatively inexperienced guy, but maybe it's a helpful perspective.

Andrew:
Another item I just thought of with respect to the Boulderado; to set up TR anchoring from the trees/rocks (to work on mock leads), you will need to get some static line as the natural anchoring is set back about 20' or so. Makes for a hassle.

The Boulder Group of the Colorado Mountain Club (CMC) runs a Rock Lead School every year in June. It's three full-day Saturday sessions. It's a good way to learn to place pro, build anchors, do leads with a toprope, and finally do real leads without a toprope. Not very expensive and a lot of fun. Email me if you want more info.

If you're doing it on your own:

• Read a good book like John Long's "How to Rock Climb", or Craig Luebben's "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills". Study the sections on how to place pro, so you know what you are trying to achieve with each piece of gear.
• Start by learning to place pro on the ground. A good place to practice is Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon; lots of good cracks close to the ground. Place a piece, put a sling on it, and stand on the placement. Learn to use a nut tool to remove pro. Learn finesse, not force, in removing pro. It helps to have a more experienced partner who can evaluate the good and the bad about each of your placements.
• Then learn to build belay anchors. Read a good book like John Long's "Climbing Anchors". Remember the acronym ERNEST: Equalized, Redundant, Non-Extending, Solid, and Timely. Learn to build anchors using a cordalette, a sliding X, and the rope. Again, an experienced partner who can evaluate your anchors is a big help.
• If you are comfortable enough to venture out on the sharp end, here are some good first leads:

Boulder Canyon:

• Pine Tree Route on the Second Elephant Buttress (5.4)
• East Slab aka Disappearing Crack on the Dome (5.6)
• Ho Hum on the Boulderado (5.4)
• Idle Hands on the Boulderado (5.6)
• Are We Not Men? on Happy Hour Crag (5.6) - easy TR from tree
• I Robot on Happy Hour Crag (5.7) - easy TR from tree

Gregory Canyon Amphitheater:

• West Bench Dihedral (5.3)
• East Bench Dihedral (5.2)

Eldorado Canyon:

• West Crack on Whale's Tail (5.2)
• West Dihedral on Whale's Tail (5.4)
• The Bomb on the Wind Tower (5.4)
• Recon on the Wind Tower (5.5)

Have fun, take your time, and be safe!

Ron Olsen wrote:The Boulder Group of the Colorado Mountain Club (CMC) runs a Rock Lead School every year in June. It's three full-day Saturday sessions. It's a good way to learn to place pro, build anchors, do leads with a toprope, and finally do real leads without a toprope. Not very expensive and a lot of fun. Email me if you want more info.

I know I shell out some spray towards the Boulderites (it's just the redneck free-bird in me.) However, you're in good hands with these programs & it's a good way to meet some really safe & good climbers. They've just revamped their school programs for this year & should be a good opportunity for those around Boulder to get involved with a great recreational/conservational/charitable/ & mostly volunteer organization.

bcn.boulder.co.us/recreatio…
bcn.boulder.co.us/recreatio…

Denver Group has similar climbing programs: cmcschools.org

Minor comments about the above suggestions, East Slab (aka Disappearing Crack) on The Dome in Boulder Canyon may not be the best for first leads. I've had a few friends try that early on in their lead careers and get quite nervous where the crack disappears. It requires moving above pro a ways on low angle slab (ankle risking). Also, a good, competent friend who leads is often more invested in you getting it right from the beginning.

Guys,
Thanks for you all of your thoughtful replies. I have read all the books, followed a few routes, had a NOLS lesson in gear placement. Now I would like to have a crag to go to after work where I can TR solo and place gear on. I went out to where I THOUGHT was the happy hour crag to seek out a place and all I found were a few stray bolts here and there. Any recomendations on crags and routes or advice on FINDING the crags?
Thanks again,
Andrew

Andrew,

Happy Hour Crag isn't hard to find. Park in a pullout 6.8 miles up the canyon on the left, 200 yards past Cob Rock. Cross the road and hike up a steep trail to the rock. Don't go too far right or you'll wind up at Security Risk Crag.

Happy Hour Crag looks like this:

The trail takes you to the rock near the route Grins. This is by the white dike behind the big trees near the center of the photo.

I, Robot and Are We Not Men are on the far left side of the crag. Walk around the left side of the rock and hike up a path to the top. You can set up a toprope from a big tree directly above these routes.

I'll post another photo, showing the routes, in the next few days.

AndrewinBoulder wrote:where I THOUGHT was the happy hour crag to seek out a place and all I found were a few stray bolts here and there.

If you went LEFT, you may have been at the Riviera, it's pretty close..

Nip and Tuck in Bocan also have a few moderate TR's but I can't recall how much gear they take.