The Cathedral Guidebooks
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Ferguson Canyon
Ferguson Canyon Rock ClimbingTony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2015Salt Lake locals know Ferguson Canyon has a niche following in the area's well-deserved reputation for quality crags. The climbing is on granite, but is uniquely different than the glacier-polished slabs of nearby Little Cottonwood. Typically steep cracks and seams are often horizontal, and large crystal holds are common. The canyon is a favorite with dog owners who are not allowed to bring their pups into the Cottonwood Canyons. Trying to escape the heat? Another reason climbers like Ferguson. Nearly all the routes are shaded for most of the day. And the swamp cooling effect of the nearby stream is an ever-present pleasure when temps soar. Climbing here is a pleasurable outing, rather than an adventurous commitment. Some of the best routes in the canyon include: Monogamy (5.7), Crystal Healing (5.8+), Imperial (5.9), Extreme Unction (5.10-), Delirium Tremens (5.11-), and Fuego (5.12a). Vertical finger and hand cracks may show up for a move or two, but they are, strangely, the exception. Chimneys abound. Routes didn't start going up here until the 1980s. Many of the originals were free-soloed or led using micro-nuts in flaring seams. The early pioneers included Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Drew Bedford. The 1990s saw slightly better protected routes going up with hand-drilled bolt placement by Hank Armantrout. The turn of the century brought a radically different approach from Greg Martinez. His routes provide the majority of sport climbing in the canyon. Long-time local guide, Tony Calderone, provides excellent, up-to-date information on the most comprehensive compilation of 160 Ferguson Canyon rock climbing routes. |
Utah : Wasatch Range
A Granite GuideNathan Smith, Andrew Burr, Tyler Phillips / PullPublishingA Granite Guide - Ferguson to Lone Peak. 2016 |
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Logan Canyon ClimbsTim Monsell, available locallyJust about the only guide to Logan out there as far as I know. Areas Covered
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Classic Rock Climbs No. 11: Wasatch Range UtahBret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1999 (Chockstone)Features the best of Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons and American Fork Canyon. Pretty limited in scope but good if you just want something small. Areas Covered
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Rock Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)Bret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1998 (Chockstone)Huge and excellent climbing resources for the Wasatch Range. Does not include American Fork but covers everything from City Creek Canyon down past Little Cottonwood. A must have. Areas Covered
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Utah
Beehive IceNathan Smith, Andrew Burr / Pull Publishing 2014Beehive Ice: A Guide to Utah's Ice and Mixed Climbs |
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A Bouldering Guide to UtahJeff Baldwin, Mike Beck, and Mark Russo Sharp End PublishingThe definitive guide to Utah bouldering includes Little Cottonwood, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Triassic, Moab, Huntington, Price, Wasatch Front, Maple, Cedar City, Big Rocks, St. George, and the High Uintas. Photo overlays, overview maps, and inspirational action pics make this the bouldering guide of choice. |
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Utah BoulderingChris Grijalva, et al., Wolverine PublishingA comprehensive guidebook to Utah's best bouldering areas by Chris Grijalva, Noah Bigwood, Dave Pegg. Covers Little Cottonwood Canyon, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Big Bend, Ogden. Awesome action photographs and thousands of problems. |
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Rock Climbing UtahStewart M. Green, The Globe Pequot Press, 1998Covers the major climbing areas in the state; a good starting reference. |