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Elevation: 1,839 ft 561 m
GPS: 34.73754, -98.60448
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Miles Johnson on Oct 1, 2021
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz
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Description Suggest change

Jug City (Holy City) area hosts a range of boulders from VB-V8 on good rock. While most of the climbs top out over 15’ - 40’ there are some shorter climbs in the comfortable 10-12’ range (there are even some silly hard lowballs too).

The rock is highly featured, more bomber than most areas, and variable in types of holds and edges. Bring at least two pads and be mindful of fall lines and distance. While most fall lines and landings are good or great compared to most Wichita boulders, the heights should be considered and down climbing / escape abilities considered before heading up something 20-40’ tall.

Asking the first visitor about their experience at Jug City he simply said, “Sure is juggy.”

Getting There Suggest change

Park at Rush Lake loop and hike down across the Blue Beaver Creek dam gully. Head SE following deer trails and you should see Ignorance boulder or Backrow Baptists boulder first about halfway up. Above you to the south is The Bad Beta Podcast Studio, Bad Beta Basement, Hurricane Cave, Irrational Fears Wall, Walking The Fish, the Shadow Work climbs, CURARE and a host of others. A little more climbing exists on the backside and approaching from Rush Lake or Jeb Johnson Tower parking would work equally as well once you know the area or in rainy season when the dam is releasing water.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jug City (Holy City)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
 5
● Standing In The Eye
Boulder
Hurricane Cave
V4 6B
 5
● Hurricane Without A Name
Boulder
Hurricane Cave
V5-6 6C+
 4
● Infinite Storm
Boulder
Hurricane Cave
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Standing In The Eye Hurricane Cave
 5
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
● Hurricane Without A Name Hurricane Cave
 5
V4 6B Boulder
● Infinite Storm Hurricane Cave
 4
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Jug City (Holy City) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Photos

CURARE (Purple) and Livin Like Larry (Pink). LLL starts on a LH box jug and a RH sloper. CURARE starts on two full pad incuts under the boulder below the LLL starting holds.
CURARE (Purple) and Livin Like Larry (Pink). LL…
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Bad Beta Podcast Studios: open direct project = pink, Big Climbing = Blue, Climbing Is Over (Skateboarding Is In) = Orange, and out of view to the right is Bribe For The Ferryman V7/8 = black and Tom Randall Action Figure = purple.
Bad Beta Podcast Studios: open direct project =…
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On the west side of Bad Beta Podcast Studios there are two problems, Bribe For The Ferryman (Black V7) which exits left and Tom Randall Action Figure (Purple) which sit starts on the lowest two pods and follows the crack out of the double roof.
On the west side of Bad Beta Podcast Studios th…
 0
Shadow Work - The Shadow You Can't Shake (black). Bury The Shadow (Purple - Face Only). Ask The Dust (Red - Arete On). Escape Pod to right is just for bailing and down climbing.
Shadow Work - The Shadow You Can't Shake (black…
 0
Hurricane Without A Name is the sit start marked by blue. Standing In The Eye marked red, and Infinite Storm sit start marked pink (matched hand jams in the back of the roof). Pedestal is not part of problems (black X)
Hurricane Without A Name is the sit start marke…
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Ignorance Boulder faces ENE and this photo shows both halves with More Ignorance on the left face, Ignorance going up the corner of the deeper slab, and Grape Juice Shots flowing up the right corner.
Ignorance Boulder faces ENE and this photo show…
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Irrational Fears Wall - Snake In The Toilet (white), Dyslexic Hitman (yellow), Pit Of Needles (green). Walking The Fish to the right in Red. CURARE partially visible. Shadow Work wall hidden around corner.
Irrational Fears Wall - Snake In The Toilet (wh…
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Backrow Baptists faces N and is just a minute east of Ignorance Boulder. On the left (partially obscured by tree) is the hand crack trainer with opportune feet called Cupping A Feel and running up the middle of the slopey slab is Learning To Why.
Backrow Baptists faces N and is just a minute e…
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Jug City shown from the parking loop. On the left Bad Beta Podcast Studio overhang is visible, Hurricane Roof just to the right of it, uphill and right Irrational Fears Wall, Walking The Fish, Shadow Work and then CURARE to the right.
Jug City shown from the parking loop. On the le…
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A Bison enjoying the view of Jug City from the hill north and above the Rush Lake / Blue Beaver Creek parking loop.
A Bison enjoying the view of Jug City from the…
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