Elevation: 5,213 ft
GPS: 44.036, -121.548 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,288 total · 466/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Jun 26, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

A nice quiet crag overlooking Tumalo creek, featuring some longer trad lines up to 600' and a handful of bolted sport routes as well, mostly concentrated in the low 5.10 range. Perhaps about 50-60 routes total in the main area, with lots of potential for more (especially easier lines).

This area has had a secretive aura about it for some time, and shows signs of having very little traffic apart from one or two main routes you can expect to brush dirt, lichen, and spiderwebs off the chalk-free holds on the way up. Rock quality is pretty variable, with a number of questionable sections and holds on most routes. Many if not all of them could benefit from increased traffic--bring a brush and wear helmets. Inspect jugs and edges before you commit to them.

For these reasons, this place is probably best as a weekend diversion if you live in the area, and might be a little disappointing if you drove from out of town, past Smith, to get here.

As routes are being added here to the MP database, further information can be found on the Cascade Climber's forum, Summit post, old guidebooks, blogs, etc for the time being. Despite all the secrecy hype, it really isn't hard to find information on.

If you want a true adventure, stop reading now, drive up towards Tumalo Falls stop when you see the big rock, hike up towards it with a sling full of widgets and go exploring. Don't forget to check for ticks after. There you go, you now have the opportunity to experience it how many have before you.

Getting There

Drive as if you were going to Tumalo Falls (Head out of town West on Skyliners road, turn onto gravel at FS 4603...or just type "Tumalo Falls" into Google Maps), this final stretch of road is closed seasonally in the winter.

Cougar Buttress is the obvious 600' cliff on your right. If you don't see it, you probably shouldn't be climbing. Park in a small turnout on the side of the road (FS 4603) just before you are parallel to the highest point of the wall.

The approach trail starts at a small break in the line of trees along the road; it starts just to the left of a white USGS Survey Marker sign and a smaller blue Natural gas line sign. It is directly in line with the highest point of the buttress, and offers a full view of the Cougar Buttress route.

A little difficult to pick up at first, the trail is very obvious where it cuts up into the thicker woods/ manzanita fields about 200' up from the road. Unless neck deep manzanita wading is your thing, I would recommend finding the trail. After a steep 10-15 minutes, the trail will deposit you right at the big shady alcove that is the start of the eponymous Cougar Buttress (5.9) route.

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