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Elevation: 5,213 ft 1,589 m
GPS: 44.03596, -121.54824
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,027 total · 350/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Jun 26, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

A nice quiet crag overlooking Tumalo creek, featuring some longer trad lines up to 600' and a handful of bolted sport routes as well, mostly concentrated in the low 5.10 range. Perhaps about 50-60 routes total in the main area, with lots of potential for more (especially easier lines).

This area has had a secretive aura about it for some time, and shows signs of having very little traffic apart from one or two main routes you can expect to brush dirt, lichen, and spiderwebs off the chalk-free holds on the way up. Rock quality is pretty variable, with a number of questionable sections and holds on most routes. Many if not all of them could benefit from increased traffic--bring a brush and wear helmets. Inspect jugs and edges before you commit to them.

For these reasons, this place is probably best as a weekend diversion if you live in the area, and might be a little disappointing if you drove from out of town, past Smith, to get here.

As routes are being added here to the MP database, further information can be found on the Cascade Climber's forum, Summit post, old guidebooks, blogs, etc for the time being. Despite all the secrecy hype, it really isn't hard to find information on.

If you want a true adventure, stop reading now, drive up towards Tumalo Falls stop when you see the big rock, hike up towards it with a sling full of widgets and go exploring. Don't forget to check for ticks after. There you go, you now have the opportunity to experience it how many have before you.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive as if you were going to Tumalo Falls (Head out of town West on Skyliners road, turn onto gravel at FS 4603...or just type "Tumalo Falls" into Google Maps), this final stretch of road is closed seasonally in the winter.

Cougar Buttress is the obvious 600' cliff on your right. If you don't see it, you probably shouldn't be climbing. Park in a small turnout on the side of the road (FS 4603) just before you are parallel to the highest point of the wall.

The approach trail starts at a small break in the line of trees along the road; it starts just to the left of a white USGS Survey Marker sign and a smaller blue Natural gas line sign. It is directly in line with the highest point of the buttress, and offers a full view of the Cougar Buttress route.

A little difficult to pick up at first, the trail is very obvious where it cuts up into the thicker woods/ manzanita fields about 200' up from the road. Unless neck deep manzanita wading is your thing, I would recommend finding the trail. After a steep 10-15 minutes, the trail will deposit you right at the big shady alcove that is the start of the eponymous Cougar Buttress (5.9) route.

https://goo.gl/maps/Cdm5RxX1EcqiCMSt7

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cougar Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
Cougar Buttress
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Edge of Light
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Something Man
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Yardsale
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 10
Nothing Man
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
The Windy Corner
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Tova
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Exploring the Axis
Trad 7 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Sharpen Your Teeth
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Shadow Play
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Surgical Focus
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Surgical Focus Slight Return
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 5
Cougar Headwall
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cougar Buttress Main Area
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Edge of Light Main Area
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Something Man Main Area
 10
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yardsale Main Area
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Nothing Man Main Area
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
The Windy Corner Main Area
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tova Main Area
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Exploring the Axis Main Area
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Sharpen Your Teeth Main Area
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Shadow Play Main Area
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Surgical Focus Main Area
 8
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Surgical Focus Slight Return Main Area
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cougar Headwall Main Area
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
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