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Routes in Main Area
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B.A.G. It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Skies from Pain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cougar Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cougar Headwall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Edge of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exploring the Axis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Finger Crack Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kona S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Bolts Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nothing Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow Play T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sharpen Your Teeth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silver Bullet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something Man S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Surgical Focus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Surgical Focus Slight Return S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tova S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trick or Treat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown (The X Route?) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Windhover Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windy Corner, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yardsale T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.03596, -121.54824 |
| FA: | Paul Landrum, Dave Mention, Fall 1976 |
| Page Views: | 5,026 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Peter L on Oct 8, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
This route is arguably the best multi-pitch trad route for the given grade in Oregon. Good rock, great protection, solid 2 bolt belays and an excellent position high above the valley around Tumalo Creek.
Pitch 1 5.9, 27m/90ft - Start in a chimney and climb 25-30' of easy ground to gain a crack system on the right wall. Follow this crack up thru a squeeze slot and to a belay with two pitons and plenty of gear options. Pitch two can be easily combined with this pitch.
Pitch 2 5.8, 18m/60ft - Continue up a short corner to a small roof, exit the corner by stepping left to avoid a shallow roof and reach a 2 bolt belay on a ledge.
Pitch 3 5.7, 27m/90ft - Climb up easy terrain above the belay staying to the crack on the left and aiming towards the white shield of rock. This pitch can finish by climbing up the easier vegetated corner on the right (5.7) or the cleaner face on the left using smaller pro with a few delicate moves (5.8). Belay at a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 5.9, 27m/90ft - Follow the crack system up from the belay and prepare for some old-school jamming as it turns into a left-facing corner with a couple of shallow roofs. Smaller gear can be found at the second roof should you run out of wider gear. End at a comfy ledge with a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 5 - Options options
A) Original Top-Out 5.2, 24m/80ft - follow the left-trending ramp to a loose and easy 4th class finish to the top
B) 5.??, 24m/80ft - follow the left-trending ramp to another belay below the obvious off width
C) Cougar Headwall 5.11c, 20m/70ft - climb the face and crack up through the headwall directly above the belay
D) Cougar Express 5.8, 24m/80ft - down climb off the right side of the ledge and traverse into the chimney to find a two bolt anchor to set a belay for this finishing option. Climb up through the chimney and then step out and over to the right wall to pull on to easier ground. Then move up a crack/corner system to the top. Ascend a leftward ramp of easy rock for 25' to find a good anchor options.
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