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Routes in Main Area
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B.A.G. It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cougar Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cougar Headwall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Edge of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exploring the Axis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Finger Crack Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kona S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Bolts Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nothing Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow Play T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sharpen Your Teeth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silver Bullet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something Man S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Surgical Focus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Surgical Focus Slight Return S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tova S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trick or Treat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown (The X Route?) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Windhover Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windy Corner, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yardsale T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | FA pitches 1 & 2 w/ chimney start: Paul Landrum, Jim Davis (Fall 1977). FRA Brian McMillan, Jim Davis (July 2000). |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Caleb Bryce on Oct 17, 2021 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
One of the longest, hardest climbs at the Coug'! 7 pitches of jams, stems, mantles, roofs, and chimneys.
PITCHES:
NOTE: Linking P1 & P2 is recommended as P1 is very short. P4 & P5 can be linked as well, but save small/med. gear after the 11a crux roof for the P5 gear belay on the spacious ledge. P3 is best done as a short traverse/roof pitch to prevent unnecessary drag and/or poor communication between climbers.
- P1 (~5.9): Short pitch. Climb steep bolted face past 3 bolts to ledge, or chimney system to the right on gear. (5.9)
- P2 (~5.9 or 5.10): Great crack climbing (mostly hand jams; up to 5.9 depending on crack chosen) leads an awkward belay below roof. 2nd pitch variation (5.10, gear to 2 inches) climbs crack system to the right and out roof protected by a fixed pin. FA Jim Davis, & Doug Mishler, 1980.
- P3 (5.10): Cut right from awkward belay out right, clipping one high bolt before pulling the roof with marginal feet. Roof protects with finger-sized gear.
- P4 (5.10+): Head up and left into a steep corner pitch into the roof system. Rock becomes slick, with much yellow-green lichen. Next belay is up and right under the deepest section of the roof above.
- P5 (5.11a): Move out right to pull roof (good holds, but airy...chimney technique recommended), then up and right to gear belay on spacious ledge at the top of a short pinnacle. The roof move is well-protected from below with a sm-med. nut.
- P6 (5.8 PG-13): Moderate but loose climbing leads to bolted alcove anchor at base of offwidth. Nothing memorable on this pitch except considerably worse rock / choss on your way to the gaping offwidth above. The leader should thread the rope carefully to avoid knocking blocks on the follower.
- P7 (5.10+) Climb obvious offwidth (West Chimney) above and left of alcove belay. Piton near base. Gear to 5" recommended.
DESCENT:
- Rappel: Recommended...make 4 raps (with 70m or longer rope) from the top via the Cougar Buttress route rap stations (combination of rap hangers and bolts with rap rings). A single 60m rope will get you down too if you make 5 raps.
- Walk-off: top out on the summit offwidth, then turn climber's left to descent via Two Tree Gully, which splits Cougar Buttress' Western Bloc from Main Area.
Location
The bolted variation of P1 can be easily identified just uphill of Silver Bullet (5.11d bolts trending right through crimps) and Cougar Buttress (5.9). The gear variation of P1 is the obvious dark-stained alcove to the west (climber's left) of the Cougar Buttress (5.9) alcove. As you climb Exploring the Axis, aim continuously for the biggest roofs on the wall and pull right through them...
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