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Routes in Main Area
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B.A.G. It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cougar Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cougar Headwall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Edge of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exploring the Axis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Finger Crack Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kona S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Bolts Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nothing Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow Play T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sharpen Your Teeth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silver Bullet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something Man S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Surgical Focus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Surgical Focus Slight Return S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tova S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trick or Treat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown (The X Route?) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Windhover Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windy Corner, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yardsale T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | F.A. J. Davis,Haake (prep assist Paunas, Sprecher) |
| Page Views: | 961 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Edge on Jun 27, 2018 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
Work your way onto the rock off of the steep scree hill (crux), clip the first bolt and work your way up and left into a funky overhanging lieback. Get some gear in the crack here and work your way up through it (actual crux). After getting established on the face above, be careful of loose rock and not hitting your belayer with it. Pulled a 20 lb chunk off just after the crux the other day (6/18). Climb past a few more bolts and a short finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor above some more loose rocks.
Worth doing at least once! Will be better once it's a little cleaner.
Worth doing at least once! Will be better once it's a little cleaner.
Location
On the far left side of the main buttress, from the approach trail: walk left for a couple minutes, pass two giant Ponderosa pines in a gully and cut uphill here. Locate the route "Sharpen Your Teeth" (listed just to the left of this one), and slog 15' up steep loose scree into the little canyon directly up and to the right of it. Currently this is the only route in there that starts on bolts.
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