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Elevation: 8,843 ft
GPS: 39.51581, -105.39322
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,157 total · 1,145/month
Shared By: Alex A on Aug 31, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Pooka gets morning and afternoon sun and late afternoon shade. It is a buttress of rock next to Meadow Dome, on East end of Staunton Rocks on the far right. The first area you come to is Canyon Amphitheater with a slab on the left and a canyon on the right. To the right of the canyon is the Astronomy Wall. Dark Matter is the black water streak. King's Landing is on the left side of the Pooka,

Warning: helmets are a GOOD idea for the belayer, as this is a new area. There maybe some small stuff that may break off. If you toprope the route and stray to far off the bolted line, you could find some loose rock that has not been tested.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Lazy V Parking lot, take the Lazy V trail to the Old Mill trail or from the Meadow parking lot take the Staunton Ranch trail, to the Old Mill trail North (right) to the Eastern Climbing Access Trail. Follow the Climber's Access Trail to the signed trail for the Pooka Buttress.

Additionally, it possible to hike the main Climbing Access Trail from the Staunton Ranch trail. Once you are at the base of the Meadow Dome, go right (East) for ~ 3 minutes past the Cascades Wall until you see the sign for the Pooka Buttress.

32 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pooka Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pooka

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 64
Captain Underpants
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 95
The Cookie Thief
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 59
Winter Is Coming
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 88
Night King
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
Viserion
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Dragonglass
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 116
Big Squirrels Don't Cry
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 48
Dark Matter
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 66
Follow That Thief
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 96
Io
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 119
Restaurant At The End Of The Uni…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 75
Footprints On The Moon
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
The Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 51
Ricochet Rabbit
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Planck Time
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Captain Underpants 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 64
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
The Cookie Thief 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 95
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Winter Is Coming 1. King's Landing
 59
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Night King 1. King's Landing
 88
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Viserion 1. King's Landing
 54
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dragonglass 1. King's Landing
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Big Squirrels Don't Cry 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 116
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dark Matter 3. Astronomy Wall
 48
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Follow That Thief 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 66
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Io 3. Astronomy Wall
 96
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Restaurant At The End Of Th… 3. Astronomy Wall
 119
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Footprints On The Moon 3. Astronomy Wall
 75
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Pan Galactic Gargle Bla… 3. Astronomy Wall
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ricochet Rabbit 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 51
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Planck Time 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Pooka »

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