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Elevation: 8,843 ft 2,695 m
GPS: 39.51581, -105.39322
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Shared By: Alex A on Aug 31, 2017 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

The Pooka gets morning and afternoon sun and late afternoon shade. It is a buttress of rock next to Meadow Dome, on East end of Staunton Rocks on the far right. The first area you come to is Canyon Amphitheater with a slab on the left and a canyon on the right. To the right of the canyon is the Astronomy Wall. Dark Matter is the black water streak. King's Landing is on the left side of the Pooka,

Warning: helmets are a GOOD idea for the belayer, as this is a new area. There maybe some small stuff that may break off. If you toprope the route and stray to far off the bolted line, you could find some loose rock that has not been tested.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Lazy V Parking lot, take the Lazy V trail to the Old Mill trail or from the Meadow parking lot take the Staunton Ranch trail, to the Old Mill trail North (right) to the Eastern Climbing Access Trail. Follow the Climber's Access Trail to the signed trail for the Pooka Buttress.

Additionally, it possible to hike the main Climbing Access Trail from the Staunton Ranch trail. Once you are at the base of the Meadow Dome, go right (East) for ~ 3 minutes past the Cascades Wall until you see the sign for the Pooka Buttress.

37 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pooka Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pooka

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 89
● Captain Underpants
Sport
2. Canyon Amphitheater
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 119
● The Cookie Thief
Sport
2. Canyon Amphitheater
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 90
● Winter Is Coming
Sport
1. King's Landing
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 123
● Night King
Sport
1. King's Landing
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
● Viserion
Sport
1. King's Landing
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 111
● Dragonglass
Sport
1. King's Landing
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 179
● Big Squirrels Don't Cry
Sport
2. Canyon Amphitheater
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 67
● Dark Matter
Trad
3. Astronomy Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 85
● Follow That Thief
Sport 2 pitches
2. Canyon Amphitheater
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 136
● Io
Sport
3. Astronomy Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 172
● Restaurant At The End Of The Uni…
Sport
3. Astronomy Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 109
● Footprints On The Moon
Sport
3. Astronomy Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 90
● The Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster
Sport
3. Astronomy Wall
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 79
● Ricochet Rabbit
Sport
2. Canyon Amphitheater
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
● Planck Time
Sport 2 pitches
2. Canyon Amphitheater
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Captain Underpants 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 89
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● The Cookie Thief 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 119
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Winter Is Coming 1. King's Landing
 90
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Night King 1. King's Landing
 123
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Viserion 1. King's Landing
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Dragonglass 1. King's Landing
 111
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Big Squirrels Don't Cry 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 179
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Dark Matter 3. Astronomy Wall
 67
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Follow That Thief 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 85
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
● Io 3. Astronomy Wall
 136
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Restaurant At The End Of Th… 3. Astronomy Wall
 172
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Footprints On The Moon 3. Astronomy Wall
 109
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● The Pan Galactic Gargle Bla… 3. Astronomy Wall
 90
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ricochet Rabbit 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 79
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Planck Time 2. Canyon Amphitheater
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Pooka »

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