Elevation: 8,843 ft
GPS: 39.516, -105.393 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,874 total · 588/month
Shared By: Alex A on Aug 31, 2017 with updates from David Miller
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

The Pooka gets morning and afternoon sun and late afternoon shade. It is a buttress of rock next to Meadow Dome, on East end of Staunton Rocks on the far right. The first area you come to is Canyon Amphitheater with a slab on the left and a canyon on the right. To the right of the canyon is the Astronomy Wall. Dark Matter is the black water streak. King's Landing is on the left side of the Pooka,

Warning: helmets are a GOOD idea for the belayer, as this is a new area. There maybe some small stuff that may break off. If you toprope the route and stray to far off the bolted line, you could find some loose rock that has not been tested.

Getting There

Hike the Staunton Ranch trail to Old Mill hiking trail. Follow the Old Mill trail North (right) to the Eastern Climbing Access Trail. Follow the Climbers access trail to the signed trail for the Pooka buttress.

Additionally, it possible to hike the main Climbing Access Trail from the Staunton Ranch trail. Once you are at the base of the Meadow dome, go right (East) for ~ 3 minutes past the Cascades Wall until you see the sign for the Pooka buttress..

23 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pooka Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pooka

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 4
Training Wheels
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Captain Underpants
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
The Cookie Thief
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Winter Is Coming
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Viserion
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Night King
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Dragonglass
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 13
Big Squirrels Don't Cry
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 3
Khaleesi
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Dark Matter
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Follow That Thief
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Io
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Restaurant At The End Of The Uni…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Training Wheels Canyon Amphitheater
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Captain Underpants Canyon Amphitheater
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
The Cookie Thief Canyon Amphitheater
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Winter Is Coming King's Landing
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Viserion King's Landing
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Night King King's Landing
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dragonglass King's Landing
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Big Squirrels Don't Cry Canyon Amphitheater
 13
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Khaleesi King's Landing
 3
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Dark Matter Astronomy Wall
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Follow That Thief Canyon Amphitheater
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Io Astronomy Wall
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Restaurant At The End Of Th… Astronomy Wall
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Pooka »

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