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Areas in Crags Against Humanity

Discard Pile., The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Draw Pile., The 1 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Expansion Pack., The 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 32.324, -110.707 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,190 total, 839/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 14, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Crags Against Humanity are two recently developed cliffs low on Catalina highway with routes aimed squarely at the beginner and intermediate Mt. Lemmon climber. The bulk of the routes are rated 5.9 and under with uber-friendly bolt spacing. This will be a great climbing destination for getting that first lead climb under your belt.

The climb angles range from slab to slightly overhung much like the rest of Mt. Lemmon crags with the real gems being the near vertical climbs with big holds in the 5.7-5.9 range.

Both cliffs get shade from about mid morning on, which means that you can comfortably climb here up until it is pushing well into the 90’s in Tucson.

Getting There

Drive up Catalina highway until just past milepost four. There is a large pullout on your left directly at a drainage with culvert going under the highway - park here.

There is a worn in access path that begins near the downhill end of the pull out just left of a small mesquite. The path contours the cliff directly under the climbs. Please stay on the path going to and from the climbs.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crags Against Humanity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moral Ambiguity
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Big Black Deck
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spontaneous Conga Line
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Walking the Plank
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Bigger Blacker Deck
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With a Bullet
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morgan Freeman's Voice
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Entertainment Tonight
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unlimited Choss......and Breadsticks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obsessive Cleaning Disorder
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spray Tan Handy Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moral Ambiguity Draw Pile. 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
A Big Black Deck Draw Pile. 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Spontaneous Conga Line Draw Pile. 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Walking the Plank Draw Pile. 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
A Bigger Blacker Deck Draw Pile. 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
With a Bullet Draw Pile. 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Morgan Freeman's Voice Draw Pile. 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Entertainment Tonight Draw Pile. 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unlimited Choss......and Br… Discard Pile. 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Obsessive Cleaning Disorder Discard Pile. 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Spray Tan Handy Man Expansion Pack. 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Crags Against Humanity »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Found a chalk bag at the near the base of Big Black Deck. If you think it might be yours send me PM with a description and I'll get it back to you. Oct 29, 2017
Totally agree Kemper. Half the people out there only have half a clue about anything, from how and where to take a dump to not using anchors when they top-rope. It would be great to create posters for gyms and videos for climbing sites and social media that taught people this. Thanks for posting up. Feb 23, 2017
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
Thanks for the info Eric, these were definitely not the worst I've seen, but some of the worst I've seen on Lemmon. Given the number of people visiting this place, I dont think its out of the question that these are worn this heavily just from lowering. That said, the PSA seemed appropriate, even if its just a small way of encouraging people to take responsibility for the climbing areas they enjoy.

As a side note, Luke was telling me about some he pulled from American Fork years ago that were so worn you could bend them with your hand! Wild! Feb 22, 2017
Hey Kemper, Just a little info I got from Geir a while back. He had an older SMC oval carabiner that was worn half way through. He pull tested it and it elongated but still held 4000 lbs. One Carabiner pull test means nothing I just found it interesting. It also made me less concerned about what seems like a lot of wear. It would be interesting to set up a machine that would do lower offs and see how many would create the grooves you have on those biners. Education, Education, Education. It is the only way to get people to stop top roping through the lower off anchors. I must say I see less and less of it. I have a link to a site where you can get Mussy hooks for about $3.60 each. Email me if you want it. Feb 22, 2017
Kemper Brightman   Tucson


Glad to see so many people enjoying these routes. Given the traffic this cliff is seeing, it is especially important to be courteous to other climbers and developers and USE YOUR OWN GEAR TO TOP ROPE. The biners you see on the chains are intended FOR CLEANING ONLY. If you are the last climber in your group, it is OK to lower off. If you want to gaurantee your entrance to heaven, consider rappelling. Above all else, if you see something like this, do not think the next person will take care of it. For all you know it could be their first outdoor lead. Think about it, For the cost of a biner or a wrench, you can make the next person's climbing experience that much better.


Feb 21, 2017
John Hayes
Bend, OR
John Hayes   Bend, OR
Luke, it was good to meet you the other day when I was up there with Eric...and thanks for all the hard work! You did good man--it's a great little crag. I went back yesterday afternoon to try some of the other routes and we had a blast. My favorite was the one way to the left that lie-backs the light colored edges. What's that called? It seemed like maybe 10c (?) and the moves were really fun. -John Jan 13, 2017
Note that the route With a Bullet has loose nuts on the last two bolts - and importantly, also at the anchor. Today a nut on an anchor bolt fell off while a climber was hanging from the anchor - leaving them hanging from a single bolt - which is also loose. This could have been a tragedy. The bolt itself seems OK, but the nuts need to be tightened. The chain for the second anchor chain is now hanging on the first bolt of the climb. I may go up in a couple days and fix it up. Luckily the anchor for the route to the right is just a few feet away and easily reached from the With a Bullet anchor. Dec 30, 2016
jbak  
Haha thanks...you little turd...I deserve that !! I looked at similar chain and it was plenty strong. My bad. Dec 18, 2016
Hey Jbak, We took a bunch of epoxy up there and coated the skinny chain to reinforce it. I am guessing it is now stronger and safe enough for you. Since your old buddy isn't around to mess with you I thought I would! Haha. Dec 17, 2016
jbak  
I believe you brother...I figured if you supplied the chain it must be a lot stronger than it looked. But thanks for the confirmation.

I did enjoy the routes. But at one point on 90 Days I had 4 points of contact and I didn't trust any of the 4. I was wondering which one was going to break and felt like the resulting fall was going to be no fun. Luckily I held on when one of the footholds DID break. And luckily my belayer was off to the side. Next time I go I'll take a hammer and crowbar unless you object. Dec 14, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Without getting way into it..... the anchors at Crags are bomber. I have been removing and replacing gigantic 3/8" gauge rusty chain from all over the mountain for CASA and replacing it with very strong high quality stainless chain and anchor setups. I have used similar or the exact same materials for everything I have developed on Mt. Lemmon or elsewhere.

John, rest assured that putting up quality hardware in a high traffic area, or anywhere for that matter, is not something I take lightly.

I hope you enjoyed the climbs. I know the upper crag is still cleaning up despite Kemper and I climbing all of those route many times. The rock was less than ideal and therefore only yielded 3 routes where we thought we would get several more than that. Dec 14, 2016
jbak  
Thanks Eric !!

I hate to come off as mr-know-it-all, but I DO like good anchor hardware. I think minimum breaking strength of any anchor component should be twice the weight of anyone who will ever be on the route. So... say 600lbs minimum. Personally I go for 2000 lb minimum. But then I'm pretty heavy !!

It's partly psychological. When I clip into stuff I want it to LOOK strong, no guessing.

Foot felt pretty good. But no color-coded footholds ??!! what's with that ?? Dec 13, 2016
Are you serious about that chain Jbak? Are you taking whippers on it? You sound like my someone who doesn't have a clue. How long have you been climbing. Luke put that up so I can assure you it is bombproof. Hahaha! Welcome back! ;) Dec 13, 2016
jbak  
Climbed here for the first time today. Good to get out and see how my smashed foot would feel on real rock. Did 5 routes and all were better than I expected.

I had reservations about 90 Days in the Hole though... it had a lot of fairly big loose-looking stuff. Needs more prying or reinforcement I think. I almost clocked my belayer with a pretty big chunk. And the thin-gauge chain on the anchor did not make me smile much. Maybe it's plenty strong, but it looks a bit frail. The route had good movement, interesting holds and was pretty sustained, so 2 stars for that, but minus a star for the other stuff.

Anyway......thanks for the work guys !! Dec 13, 2016
Big Black Deck over to With a Bullet can easily be top roped after leading one of these by hauling multiple ropes or just traversing over to the next set of anchors. Draws out a bit but is nothing too sketch. Great spot to bring beginners or just to do some easy fun top rope--just bring your own anchors so not TR off of the QL. Dec 3, 2016
Abby S.  
Looking forward to checking this place out, Luke! Thanks! May 15, 2016

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