Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Page Views: 534 total · 28/month
Shared By: Kemper Brightman on May 23, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

You wont need a special prosecutor to tell you what's going on here. After months of choss mining, we've un-covered the truth. Its 80 feet of jugs, edges and brilliant moves hidden in plane sight of the Catalina Highway.

Begin by climbing three bolts on rock with a lower approval rating than our current president. Take a mandatory pause on the ledge to Tweet something ludicrous before continuing into the solid rock above. Fire through the crux (like you fired the FBI Director) and fly through a series of crimps to a good resting place above (Mar-A-Lago).
Unfortunately, we won't give up any classified information about the final moves up top...that's only for the Russians to know.

Location

Just right of ALternative Fact Checking, The route starts by stepping left out of the main belay area

Protection

13 bolts plus anchors. Bring a double draw for the 4th bolt to avoid a YUGE amount of rope drag.

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Kemper - first ascent aficionado and Russian lover.
Kemper - first ascent aficionado and Russian lo…
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From Russia with Love - On Sight
From Russia with Love - On Sight
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The tech-vert section at the top. Just when the jugs have lulled you into thinking it's all over the climb throws one more crux at you.
The tech-vert section at the top. Just when th…
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2 Comments

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Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.11c
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.11c
I used to look at this wall from the top of the draw pile and wonder if there would ever be anything on it. Already knee-deep in the days long cleaning project now known as "Spontaneous Conga Line" I wrote it off, and hoped someone else would take it on once we opened the lower walls. Probably do to masochism or memory loss, I found myself rapping The Expansion pack the next season. The first time I went down I wasn't sure there would be even enough solid rock to put bolts in, let alone climb on. Wet cardboard is the best way to describe the sound my hammer made during my initial pass. Luke, being a lover of new routes (and apparently suffering) was easily enticed by my disgusting description. Leaving a giant communal crow-bar at the wall, we began the excavation process. Over the next several months we likely removed a dump-truck worth of garbage rock from the cliff face. It came to feel like finding a needle in a hay-stack, but eventually we discovered solid rock and features that wouldn't come off. I might be delirious, or biased, or both, but I could swear there are some really good moves up there.

Don't get me wrong, the routes here are not perfect, but they are routes, and sometimes that's something to celebrate in itself. May 24, 2017
Lucas Mattick
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Lucas Mattick   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
This route is just awesome, thanks for digging it up! The movement is pleasant, the holds feel good, and the little bulge on thin holds at the top make it an interesting red point. Highly recommend this route if you're at crags against humanity (or if you're driving up Mt Lemmon, its right on the road!). Mar 17, 2018