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Routes in The Draw Pile.

A Big Black Deck S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Bigger Blacker Deck S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blank Card 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entertainment Tonight S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moral Ambiguity S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morgan Freeman's Voice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Gifting S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spontaneous Conga Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thornbush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking the Plank S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
With a Bullet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Kemper Brightman - 2016
Page Views: 698 total · 32/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 14, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Following a ramp start you will encounter three bolts of classic Mt. Lemmon edging. Finish up with some easier arete climbing.

Although this climb is nowhere near as soothing as Morgan Freeman's voice it is fun.

Location

Continuing on the trail past Re-Gifting this is the next route you will come upon. Identifiable as it climbs a short arete section at the very top.

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors.

  • Bolt 4 is high due to low quality rock below it for a lower bolt placement - the permadraw is there for community use. Please do not steal this lest you prefer to be condemned to fail on your project for the next calendar year.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Joe- I think the original grade for this was .10d. I would not have been shocked if it had gone up versus down (that's Mt. Lemmon for ya - sandbag city), but I am also a little puzzled that at least one person has the has .10a for this route!!??.
I think there is always a little bit of confusion about consensus rating and a reluctance to go against the grain with a personal grade. I am always happy for the feedback on my routes regarding grade or quality. I have revisited some routes and altered grades at times. In general I always look at grades and figure it will go two letters in either direction. Jan 14, 2018
JoeS  
Got on this the other day. Good climb, but seemed pretty stout for 5.10. Not sure why everyone rated this mid-10. Did I miss something? Jan 14, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.10d
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.10d
I just climbed this again for the first time since last summer. I'm not sure if I've gotten weaker (probably this one) or something has come off, but there are some serious pulls on small holds between the perma-draw and the next bolt. Felt much harder than "entertainment tonight" this time around...

Luckily the perma-draw allows for easy retreat if you're working into these grades. Aug 6, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Pretty excellent (and stout!) for about 30 feet. Reminds me of a few Milagrosa climbs. Apr 30, 2017

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