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Routes in The Draw Pile.

A Big Black Deck S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Bigger Blacker Deck S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blank Card 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entertainment Tonight S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moral Ambiguity S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morgan Freeman's Voice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Gifting S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spontaneous Conga Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thornbush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking the Plank S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
With a Bullet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Kemper Brightman, Tiffany Bertelsen - 2016
Page Views: 526 total · 26/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 14, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

After a ramp start follow an intermittent and chunky crack system to a crux right at the end of the route.

As you clip the chains look slightly left and see how this one got it's name.

Location

Just right of "Morgan Freeman's Voice"

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

One of the anchor bolts on this route had the nut and chain fall right off when weighted today. As of today, their is only a single chain at the anchor, and an empty stud. The chain that fell is attached to the fist bolt of the climb (hopefully a warning to those who wish to climb the route). The anchor for the route to the right can easily be reached from this anchor. The last two bolts below the anchor also have very loose nuts - this route needs some maintenance. Beware. Dec 30, 2016
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
There is an empty stud down low... first hanger missing ? It's not really necessary, I'm just reporting. Dec 13, 2016
Michael Poston
  5.9 PG13
Michael Poston  
  5.9 PG13
My personal favorite at this crag. A bit slab to start but with decent smears makes it pretty easy. A drawn out fall could lead to a weird fall onto the slab section but two bolts pretty close on the next section make this unlikely. Feet are a little thin but every hand is super solid making for a pumpy climb solidly in the 9 range. A traverse over from the top of Spontaneous Conga Line makes this an easy top rope as well. Dec 3, 2016