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Routes in The Draw Pile.

A Big Black Deck S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Bigger Blacker Deck S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Card 1 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Entertainment Tonight S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moral Ambiguity S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morgan Freeman's Voice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Gifting S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spontaneous Conga Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thornbush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking the Plank S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
With a Bullet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 437 total · 19/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 26, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This one is for that must have trad fix in a land of bolted climbs.

Climb the alpine staircase to the base of the giant flake just above the hungry hackberry bush. Do not fall into this bush - it does not play nice. Your rope will attest to this later.

Climb the steep vertical flake with intermittent horizontal fractures.

Takes good gear the whole way.

Location

This is the crack right of 'Entertainment Tonight'.

Protection

You can throw the kitchen sink at this thing. If you want to climb slow you will find awesome nut placements. This thing will also easily take #3-5 Camalots through most of the layback flake.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
No clue who added the anchors here other than it was after 2009 (the bolts have the manufacture date on them).

Happy to rename this if someone knows the actual name. This is what we called it. May 26, 2016
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Actually not all that bad for an easy Lemmon crack climb. The crack is continuous and the pro is very solid despite the moderate amount of auxiliary choss (helmets recommended). Doing Moral Ambiguity and this would make a pretty good 1st and 2nd 5.7 gear lead. Mar 18, 2018

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