Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Expansion Pack.

Alternative Fact Checking S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crackhead Anonymous T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Faking News S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
From Russia With Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Make Choss Great Again S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spray Tan Handy Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Kemper Brightman - February 2017
Page Views: 1,137 total · 60/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Mar 27, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

It's no alternative fact that this route is amazing. At the start of cleaning we just weren't sure what this section of wall would yield.

When it was all over we were blown away to have found this gem in a sea of somewhat dubious rock. This route should not be missed!

Begin below a ledge and climb three bolts worth of intro climbing. Standing on the ledge you can see how the wall arcs from slab to vertical to overhung. The difficulty follows this cadence beginning with balanced slab which leads to vertical edge pulling before you are staring down a devious and dynamic three bolt crux section involving compression, high feet, and a long toss to a shark's tooth crimp. Solve your way through the crux and you are rewarded with an amazing 25ft. of slab before you clip the chains at the top of the cliff.

Update: at one point this climb was thought to be harder, but alas an alternate path was found to the right of the original crux. Ignore the beta above, or go left and choose a more challenging sport climbing adventure.

Location

This is currently the left most fully bolted climb at the expansion pack.

Protection

12 bolts to lower-offs.

Photos

awesome route guys, haven't had the chance to try it myself. I'm glad someone else thought this cliff was worth the effort, I put up the mixed line just left of yours so I know the cleaning was intense. Id like to know what your future plans are with this place??? Apr 2, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12-
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.12-
Luke, Kemper meet Mike, he is super cool and works hard at developing good routes. He helped Jim and I at the Headstones. If you guys work together you will have fun and develop some good stuff. Apr 3, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12b/c
Thanks, Eric. I reached out to Mike this weekend. We have a few lines left at the Expansion Pack. Unfortunately that darned lower elevation rock doesn't always cooperate. I would have sworn we'd get more lines at this cliff, but some of it is scary rotten and not safe, IMO so we are passing over some lines that would have been really nice if the rock had been better. Apr 3, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.12
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.12
This route is definitely the crown jewel of the area. Flowy, gym style climbing through the lower section sucks you into the puzzle of a crux. A technical slab at the top rounds the whole experience out. Cant wait to get back on this! Apr 12, 2017
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
  5.12
I really enjoyed this route! Thanks for putting all the hard work in Luke and Kemper! I unfortunately broke a hold near the beginning of the crux and it made things harder, but it still goes. I apologize to those who will follow but the crux still flows quite nicely! Really great movement! Dec 3, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
This might just be one of the best lines there is on Lemmon's notoriously bad lower-mountain rock. Pretty much every move is fun and the rock is relatively solid (beware of small feet though, there's still some fuzz).

It's also the easiest "13" I've ever been on. That's not meant as a knock to the FAists, but rather to encourage traffic from climbers that might be scared by the big number. I honestly think that it's about the same grade as Tsunami, maybe just a tad harder. If you're climbing mid-12 you should definitely put this line on your to do list.

One last thing: the route has 13 bolts - which is a lot of draws - but can certainly be done with less without making it dangerous. The first 3 bolts up to the ledge are on 5.7 terrain, the bolt just before the crux is one move away from the crux bolt, and the last bolt is on maybe 5.6 terrain. Anyways, if you're short on draws you could skip all or some of those bolts and be fine. Feb 1, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12b/c
Glad everyone seems to be enjoying this one and happy to hear folks weigh in on grade - we only get consensus when people give their opinion. There was really only one sequence on this route that I felt pushed the grade near .13a, and I never got a chance to see anyone climb it other than those I was developing with at the time, so it would be neat to hear/ see how folks are doing the crux section below where the route goes to vert/ slab. Feb 1, 2018
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Luke, thanks for putting this thing up! As hard as it can be to communicate beta over text, I'll try (beta alert, obviously): starting from the sloped jug (left hand) good crimp (right hand) at the last bolt in overhanging terrain I went right foot to good low crimp (from the previous bolts sequence), right hand to decent sidepull (right of the L shaped sidepull) left foot to good higher crimp(in same area as the right foot), right foot to jug, left hand to decent crimp right under next bolt, right hand to big right-facing jug. Feb 1, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.12
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.12
I last climbed this a year ago when Luke was working on the FA and I was working on "From Russia" right next door. I got back on today and thought I would weigh in on the grade debate a bit.

As I remember it, the original sequence went just left of the bolt line at the crux, using a left hand sloper and involving a big right hand-throw to a nubbin Luke liked to call the shark tooth. This sequence was HARD and I made very little progress when I tried it back then.

From what the chalk tells me, the "modern" beta is to head right through a technical sequence using a couple smaller edges that are supported by great feet. I went for this method today and was able to unlock the sequence with relative ease. As I remember it this sequence is a major change in difficulty from the way it was originally done by Luke on the FA. It also seems people have found an additional rest above the crux which makes the final vertical section much more manageable. The amazing thing is that the new sequence is just as good, if not better than the original one, and is much more consistent with the difficulty of the rest of the route. I would comfortably call this mid 5.12 with the new sequence and say it is comparable to Tsunami and Sentenced in both difficulty and quality (big claims, I know).

As I see it, the best possible outcome of all this discussion and grade re-evaluation is more people getting on the route who otherwise might have been intimidated. Weather you're working into the 5.12 grades or aiming for the onsight this one is not to be missed. Feb 7, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.12
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.12
Also, big ups to Galen who on-sighted AFC today while it was still a 13. Feb 7, 2018
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
I'm kinda bummed that it is NOT 13. Talk about an accessible project !! Feb 7, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12b/c
Kemper, thanks for getting out there again. It's much clearer now and as I had suspected an alternate path was found. Bummer, as the original sequence was fun, dynamic, and seemingly much harder........ so it goes. The indoor routesetter in me must have made me a little blind to the other options out right. Luckily the climb is still awesome and it seems to be getting a lot of action. Feb 7, 2018

More About Alternative Fact Checking

Printer-Friendly