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Routes in The Expansion Pack.

Alternative Fact Checking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crackhead Anonymous T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Faking News S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
From Russia With Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Make Choss Great Again S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spray Tan Handy Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Kemper Brightman - February 2017
Page Views: 641 total · 64/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Mar 27, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

It's no alternative fact that this route is amazing. At the start of cleaning we just weren't sure what this section of wall would yield.

When it was all over we were blown away to have found this gem in a sea of somewhat dubious rock. This route should not be missed!

Begin below a ledge and climb three bolts worth of intro climbing. Standing on the ledge you can see how the wall arcs from slab to vertical to overhung. The difficulty follows this cadence beginning with balanced slab which leads to vertical edge pulling before you are staring down a devious and dynamic three bolt crux section involving compression, high feet, and a long toss to a shark's tooth crimp. Solve your way through the crux and you are rewarded with an amazing 25ft. of slab before you clip the chains at the top of the cliff.

This just brushes into the 5.13 grade and it is a total blast to climb.

Location

This is currently the left most fully bolted climb at the expansion pack.

Protection

12 bolts to lower-offs.

Photos

Anthony Hugo Almanza
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
I really enjoyed this route! Thanks for putting all the hard work in Luke and Kemper! I unfortunately broke a hold near the beginning of the crux and it made things harder, but it still goes. I apologize to those who will follow but the crux still flows quite nicely! Really great movement! Dec 3, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
This route is definitely the crown jewel of the area. Flowy, gym style climbing through the lower section sucks you into the puzzle of a crux. A technical slab at the top rounds the whole experience out. Cant wait to get back on this! Apr 12, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Thanks, Eric. I reached out to Mike this weekend. We have a few lines left at the Expansion Pack. Unfortunately that darned lower elevation rock doesn't always cooperate. I would have sworn we'd get more lines at this cliff, but some of it is scary rotten and not safe, IMO so we are passing over some lines that would have been really nice if the rock had been better. Apr 3, 2017
Luke, Kemper meet Mike, he is super cool and works hard at developing good routes. He helped Jim and I at the Headstones. If you guys work together you will have fun and develop some good stuff. Apr 3, 2017
awesome route guys, haven't had the chance to try it myself. I'm glad someone else thought this cliff was worth the effort, I put up the mixed line just left of yours so I know the cleaning was intense. Id like to know what your future plans are with this place??? Apr 2, 2017

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