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Devonshire Rock Climbing
Routes in 5. Devonshire
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Cream on My Scone T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hung Like Benedict T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 556 ft | 169 m |
| GPS: |
41.14532, -74.16471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 5,230 total · 48/month | |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 24, 2015 | |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Interesting slab climbing with interesting flakes and overlaps.
Most routes are top-roped, but some have been led.
Top-Roping: Setting up top anchor for top anchor works best with a static line, and with placing the anchor well down below the top of the cliff.
To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the steep loose gully and under the base of the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Most routes are top-roped, but some have been led.
Top-Roping: Setting up top anchor for top anchor works best with a static line, and with placing the anchor well down below the top of the cliff.
To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the steep loose gully and under the base of the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Getting There
Devonshire is about 170 feet ENE from Tower Wall, or about 130 feet WSW from Puzzle Palace.
Between Shadow Castle wall and Jumble Hotel crag.
Because of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest method of approach is to first go to the base of Puzzle Palace cliff, then walk about 130 feet WSW to the base of Devonshire.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.
Between Shadow Castle wall and Jumble Hotel crag.
Because of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest method of approach is to first go to the base of Puzzle Palace cliff, then walk about 130 feet WSW to the base of Devonshire.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.
Classic Climbing Routes at Devonshire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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