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Devonshire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 5. Devonshire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cream on My Scone T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Extension Cord T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
	High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hung Like Benedict T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	556 ft	169 m
GPS:	41.14532, -74.16471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,367 total · 42/month
Shared By:	kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Interesting slab climbing with interesting flakes and overlaps.

Most routes are top-roped, but some have been led.

Top-Roping: Setting up top anchor for top anchor works best with a static line, and with placing the anchor well down below the top of the cliff.

To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the steep loose gully and under the base of the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There

Devonshire is about 170 feet ENE from Tower Wall, or about 130 feet WSW from Puzzle Palace.
Between Shadow Castle wall and Jumble Hotel crag.

Because of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest method of approach is to first go to the base of Puzzle Palace cliff, then walk about 130 feet WSW to the base of Devonshire.

How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.

8 Total Climbs

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Location:	5. Devonshire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Devonshire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Major John Andre TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 6 ● Devonshire Pillar Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Hung Like Benedict Trad, TR